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Fool Throttle22 05-27-2011 10:28 AM

Carb HP500 Oil Overheating?
 
Water Presure is at 20psi just like port eng, Water temp is 130 degrees just like Port eng but Oil temp stays at about 220-230 at cruise and got up to 280 at full throttle. I immediately came to idle and it went back down to 220. Port eng never gets above 180 degrees. Where should i start to look for this issue? Sticking Thermostat? Trash clogging water impeller pump? Any help would be appreciated. Also, I just had the oil changed and since it got up to 280, do you think the oil is now bad?

Thanks.

UrbanDisturbance 05-27-2011 10:57 AM

I would check the water flow out the back of your pipes and compare it to the other engine. See if the flow looks the same. Next, check water pump impeller. If you have missing blades, then you most likely have some rubber clogging up your flow. I had that happen and I had to back flush it with a water hose to get the rubber pieces out. If all looks good, replace thermostat or take it out. I don't run a thermostat. Make sure your oil pressure is good. By the way, my water temp does not get over 100, but my engines run about 230-240 degrees. 280 degrees too hot. I would change oil if you find the problem.

Knot 4 Me 05-27-2011 11:14 AM

Verify it is actually hotter with a laser thermometer. Could be a bad sending unit.

Fool Throttle22 05-27-2011 11:16 AM


Originally Posted by UrbanDisturbance (Post 3414266)
I would check the water flow out the back of your pipes and compare it to the other engine. See if the flow looks the same. Next, check water pump impeller. If you have missing blades, then you most likely have some rubber clogging up your flow. I had that happen and I had to back flush it with a water hose to get the rubber pieces out. If all looks good, replace thermostat or take it out. I don't run a thermostat. Make sure your oil pressure is good. By the way, my water temp does not get over 100, but my engines run about 230-240 degrees. 280 degrees too hot. I would change oil if you find the problem.

would the water pressure gauge still show 20psi on both motors if a blade was broke off the impeller and clogged? Where/how easy is it to check for this and clogging? also, so i can just take the thermostat all the way out and it just stays as cold as possible? thx.

blue thunder 05-27-2011 11:34 AM

My first guess would be a lean condition. You might swap carbs side to side to see if the issue follows. Also validate timing at 3500rpm.

UrbanDisturbance 05-27-2011 12:45 PM


Originally Posted by Fool Throttle22 (Post 3414287)
would the water pressure gauge still show 20psi on both motors if a blade was broke off the impeller and clogged? Where/how easy is it to check for this and clogging? also, so i can just take the thermostat all the way out and it just stays as cold as possible? thx.

Your water pressure on both engines showing 20psi kind of throws me off. It does not hurt to check it. You have to take your waterpump off, open it and check it. I assume you have the external belt driven mercury water pump. At that point, you might as well replace the impeller. If any blades are missing, they are somewhere down stream. I was told there is an inline screen that suppose to catch rubber so they don't get clogged in the engine block, but I could not find one on my boat. I followed the hoses to the last point I could reach and find down stream, opened up the hose and blasted it with a waterhose and pieces of rubber came out where I had the water pump taken off. If you ran your boat on the trailer dry, you may have a damaged water pump impeller. Some people think it is OK to run their engine at 4000+rpm on the trailer with a water hose. Don't do that.

Griff 05-27-2011 12:51 PM

First thing is to verify the oil temps.
It could be that the oil is not circulating/flowing through the oil cooler adequately.

GTOFFSHORE 05-27-2011 12:52 PM

He says his water temp stays the same only oil goes up. So water flow ok. Oil filter may have collapsed. Or doesnt flow enough. What else was done? Doubt bad sender since it wouldn't work at all unless its loose.

GTOFFSHORE 05-27-2011 12:58 PM

Does that motor run an oil thermostat? Water goes to oil cooler first sO motor thermostat would make no difference if water temp stays at 130.

UrbanDisturbance 05-27-2011 12:59 PM

I would take out the thermostat and try it. They don't last forever.

Eliminator28 05-27-2011 01:03 PM

Check the oil thermostat on the remote filter pad. If it's stuck it won't route oil to the cooler. Mine was stuck, all I had to do was clean it and it works fine now.

Since water temps are fine I wouldn't think water pump is the problem.

Fool Throttle22 05-27-2011 01:11 PM


Originally Posted by UrbanDisturbance (Post 3414360)
I would take out the thermostat and try it. They don't last forever.

is the thermostat right on top of the intake at the front where all those hoses go? Here is one of my motors. just not sure exactly where T-Stat is.
[IMG]http://img64.imageshack.us/img64/4861/motoro.jpg Uploaded with ImageShack.us[/IMG]

Fool Throttle22 05-27-2011 01:14 PM


Originally Posted by Eliminator28 (Post 3414366)
Check the oil thermostat on the remote filter pad. If it's stuck it won't route oil to the cooler. Mine was stuck, all I had to do was clean it and it works fine now.

Since water temps are fine I wouldn't think water pump is the problem.

I dont think it's impellers either. they were done at end of last season. boat is never started out of water... with or without water hose. Where is this remote filter pad thermostat??

blue thunder 05-27-2011 01:17 PM

Its not shown in your pic but should be a sandwich tstat mounting between the oil filter and remote filter mount on the back of the port head.

Oh yeah and one trip to 280f on synthetic oil I would not change it. Dino oil I would.

Fool Throttle22 05-27-2011 01:27 PM


Originally Posted by blue thunder (Post 3414371)
Its not shown in your pic but should be a sandwich tstat mounting between the oil filter and remote filter mount on the back of the port head.

Oh yeah and one trip to 280f on synthetic oil I would not change it. Dino oil I would.

great info. so there is just one thermostat for both engines? is this easy to get to? Here's a better pic of both motors where you can see the filter of the Port eng.
http://img101.imageshack.us/img101/6...sandlatham.jpg

Uploaded with ImageShack.us

BenPerfected 05-27-2011 01:50 PM


Originally Posted by blue thunder (Post 3414300)
My first guess would be a lean condition. You might swap carbs side to side to see if the issue follows. Also validate timing at 3500rpm.

+1...easy test

Eliminator28 05-27-2011 01:59 PM


Originally Posted by Fool Throttle22 (Post 3414370)
I dont think it's impellers either. they were done at end of last season. boat is never started out of water... with or without water hose. Where is this remote filter pad thermostat??

It's kinda hiding in this pic. Black thing behind the oil lines that go the oil cooler. It has a snap ring that pops out, and the thermostat is underneath it. Just pull it out, clean it, then test it in some hot water and you'll see it expand.

It's worth a shot :drink:

http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/y...p/Motor143.jpg

Fool Throttle22 05-27-2011 02:12 PM

Oh i see.

Fool Throttle22 05-27-2011 02:15 PM


Originally Posted by Eliminator28 (Post 3414393)
It's kinda hiding in this pic. Black thing behind the oil lines that go the oil cooler. It has a snap ring that pops out, and the thermostat is underneath it. Just pull it out, clean it, then test it in some hot water and you'll see it expand.

It's worth a shot :drink:

http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/y...p/Motor143.jpg

so where is this black box thats in ur pics located? directly above the oil filter?

Eliminator28 05-27-2011 02:35 PM

The pic is of the remote oil filter pad. On the back of the engine, port side (where your oil filter goes on). the lines sticking up in the air in the pic are actually facing towards the starboard side of the engine, and connecting to the oil cooler.

You do understand I'm talking about the oil cooler thermostat and not the engine water thermostat right?

This filter pad is mounted to the back of the port side head. NOT down where the original oil filter would go if it was in a car...

Fool Throttle22 05-27-2011 02:41 PM


Originally Posted by Eliminator28 (Post 3414411)
The pic is of the remote oil filter pad. On the back of the engine, port side (where your oil filter goes on). the lines sticking up in the air in the pic are actually facing towards the starboard side of the engine, and connecting to the oil cooler.

You do understand I'm talking about the oil cooler thermostat and not the engine water thermostat right?

This filter pad is mounted to the back of the port side head. NOT down where the original oil filter would go if it was in a car...

Got it. thanks for clarification. will try that first. any idea where water t-stat is?

blue thunder 05-27-2011 02:45 PM


Originally Posted by Fool Throttle22 (Post 3414415)
Got it. thanks for clarification. will try that first. any idea where water t-stat is?

Its on the front of the intake manifold and under your lifting ring. No need to go there though, its working fine.

Eliminator28 05-27-2011 02:51 PM


Originally Posted by blue thunder (Post 3414419)
Its on the front of the intake manifold and under your lifting ring. No need to go there though, its working fine.

X2

ezstriper 05-27-2011 03:04 PM

sounds like the relieve valve in the block hung open and not sending the oil thru cooler..or still has 11psi relief valve in there

GTOFFSHORE 05-27-2011 03:04 PM

Not engine thermostat people stop saying that. When your ac goes out you don't fix the furnace. OIL Thermostat. And lean wouldn't really do it either only other thing too much timing or dist gear out.

Flapjack 05-27-2011 04:01 PM

Why is nobody mentioning the obvious...at 280 degrees your buzzer alarms would be screaming. Are they going off? Take the ground off the gauge and check it with the motor running.
First make sure your alarams work by turning the key to the on position (don't start it) and within 5 second or so you will hear an alarm go off.
Also, maybe the needle/gauge is stuck. I still say bad ground like when a tach doesn't read right. Try tapping on the gauge when it hot to see if it moves at all. Sounds like simple fix if your alarms aren't going off.
Try the basic stuff first before you start pulling coolers, filters and thermostats off the motor.

cubicinches 05-27-2011 04:33 PM


Originally Posted by Flapjack (Post 3414451)
Why is nobody mentioning the obvious...at 280 degrees your buzzer alarms would be screaming. Are they going off?

Oil temp... 280 degrees of oil temp... Theres no alarm for oil temp.

Whole lotta confusion going on in this thread... Water vs. oil.

:lolhit:

cabin fever 05-27-2011 05:00 PM


Originally Posted by ezstriper (Post 3414429)
sounds like the relieve valve in the block hung open and not sending the oil thru cooler..or still has 11psi relief valve in there

agreed.

I would start with a new filter first. I have seen them collapse at high rpms.

Flapjack 05-27-2011 05:06 PM


Originally Posted by cubicinches (Post 3414466)
Oil temp... 280 degrees of oil temp... Theres no alarm for oil temp.

Whole lotta confusion going on in this thread... Water vs. oil.

:lolhit:

There are alarms on oil temps, check around.

cubicinches 05-27-2011 05:09 PM


Originally Posted by Flapjack (Post 3414479)
There are alarms on oil temps, check around.

Not in any stock HP500 carb engine there isn't.

blue thunder 05-27-2011 07:37 PM


Originally Posted by Poker~N~Run (Post 3414430)
Not engine thermostat people stop saying that. When your ac goes out you don't fix the furnace. OIL Thermostat. And lean wouldn't really do it either only other thing too much timing or dist gear out.

Lean will do it fast. Makes the pistons hot.

Fool Throttle22 05-31-2011 02:02 PM

I'm pretty sure I have a bad gauge or gauge connection. The eng oil seem like it should have got a little burnt or darker color but still looks like honey. I'm going to put a temperature laser on the oil filter and a few other places to confirm.

Budman II 05-31-2011 02:25 PM


Originally Posted by Fool Throttle22 (Post 3416471)
I'm pretty sure I have a bad gauge or gauge connection. The eng oil seem like it should have got a little burnt or darker color but still looks like honey. I'm going to put a temperature laser on the oil filter and a few other places to confirm.

Any chance you could just swap sensors between the engines? Or an easier check might be to swap the wire connections - you could probably fab up a couple of extensions from some wire and solderless terminals. If the other gauge starts reading high, you have isolated your problem to the sender. However, it's unusual for a sender to go bad like that. Laser temp gun might tell you something, but it can give a false reading as well. Maybe you could get a comparative reading between the two engines. Point it at each oil pan, and see if you get a significantly higher reading.

arizonamuscle 07-16-2012 11:34 PM

carb HP500 oil temp very high
 
carb HP500..do these engines come with oil thermostats? if so, where are they located? I have good water temp, good oil pressure, just oi temp goes high quickly, other motors run cool oil temps??

arizonamuscle 07-16-2012 11:36 PM


Originally Posted by Fool Throttle22 (Post 3414244)
Water Presure is at 20psi just like port eng, Water temp is 130 degrees just like Port eng but Oil temp stays at about 220-230 at cruise and got up to 280 at full throttle. I immediately came to idle and it went back down to 220. Port eng never gets above 180 degrees. Where should i start to look for this issue? Sticking Thermostat? Trash clogging water impeller pump? Any help would be appreciated. Also, I just had the oil changed and since it got up to 280, do you think the oil is now bad?

Thanks.

did you ever find your high oil temp issue solution?? I am having the same issue with one of my HP500's

Ran-Dom 32 05-19-2015 12:17 PM

OLD thread... but having similar issue, if the oil t stat sticks closed can someone confirm the oil is not sent through the cooler ? & result in high oil temp?

Unlimited jd 05-19-2015 12:42 PM

Yes and yes, and if you remove it oil dead heads in the cooler. So you have to have a good functioning tstat in that housing.

Eliminator28 05-19-2015 01:07 PM


Originally Posted by unlimited jd (Post 4306294)
yes and yes, and if you remove it oil dead heads in the cooler. So you have to have a good functioning tstat in that housing.

x2.

Ran-Dom 32 05-19-2015 01:15 PM

ok, thanks guys... the t stat had some crud on it, I ordered a new one.. but may not have in time for the weekend , I did clean up the old one & it now expands in a pot of boiling water .. should get me by for now


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