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-   -   Problem with starter grinding (https://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/general-q/256040-problem-starter-grinding.html)

4bus 06-22-2011 08:08 AM

Really surprised no one suggested shimming the starter to get better contact. Shim kits are cheap, and it works.

Misplacing an exsiting shim that was there is easy to do when tearing down an engine, I have seen it happen and it has happened to me.

Shim kits usually come with three thicknesses, I used the middle one and got lucky, hard to measure the gear lash with twins. Too mush shim and the engine will turn over slower and may hang the gear after the start, so take your time. I also suggest new GM bolts.

My Addiction 06-22-2011 09:23 PM


Originally Posted by nordic95 (Post 3435174)
Also check your starter bolts. I found some to be 1/4" longer then the factory and the starter would snug up but not tighten. Then it would twist after a few tries. Did you reuse exisitng bolts?

Nordic95

Bingo.
I dont know why the bolt broke on me the first time(old fatigue or whatever) with the regular starter. But one of the bolts he gave me for the high torque starter was tool long so the threads got tight to the block and didnt tighten the starter to the block on the inside. he had so many different starter bolts and starters from last year he was all confused and trying to rush things,

We got it fired up, now he needs to get it to idle right:angry-smiley-038: Those twin setups are a b!tch to work on. Its a 35 Fastech w/ Bulldogs btw.

No shim
No water
Timing and idle will be worked out tomorrow, hopfully.

Thanks to everyone for chiming in.

My Addiction 06-22-2011 09:27 PM

Oh yeah, the inside bolt has to be "modified" to fit between the Mercury T style oil pan and the block. Is there a company that makes a bolt for this reason?


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