Guys need some supercharger advice ! and boat information
06-23-2011, 12:01 PM
#31
Holy chit, what a bunch of wet blankets! Your motor already has low compression, good internals, and inconel exhaust valves. Go buy a procharger M1 kit with 4-5lbs max, get Mark Boos to program your ecm and go have fun. If it lasts the whole season do the top end and check the cylinders then. I've got 380 hours on my stock 350 mags with cast pistons and cranks and 5lbs boost. Obviously upgrading everything would be great but everyone's gotta start somewhere.
He may very well be able to just slap a ProCharger on his engine as it is and run it for a couple of years, but he stated that he wants to "do it right". It's all on how much you want to gamble. My bigger concern is what happens when you are running a 20-foot boat at 90 mph on the edge of chine walking and you hit a few of those rollers that sneak up on you.
06-23-2011, 12:02 PM
#32
You need to consider that a boat engine is not at all closely compared to a car engine. Boat engines NEVER coast. Even if you never ran it wide open it sees wear and tear at a FAR faster pace than any car engine. When a boat is put in gear, it si ALWAYS underl load. This is why so many routinely do complete refreshes between 400-500 hours, give or take.
And I think you would be very hard pressed to find anyone on here that would agree that your stock B1 outdrive would be up to the task. It would have to be babied constantly. Not doing hole shots at all is only a small piece to your drive lasting... the prop leaving tghe water and re-entering is what will destroy it faster than you can say "sportmaster lower"
Again, not trying to be disouraging, just trying to provide you with all the information because it seems you definitly dont have all the right info to make an informed decision, but by all means, do what you think is best.
And I think you would be very hard pressed to find anyone on here that would agree that your stock B1 outdrive would be up to the task. It would have to be babied constantly. Not doing hole shots at all is only a small piece to your drive lasting... the prop leaving tghe water and re-entering is what will destroy it faster than you can say "sportmaster lower"
Again, not trying to be disouraging, just trying to provide you with all the information because it seems you definitly dont have all the right info to make an informed decision, but by all means, do what you think is best.
06-23-2011, 01:11 PM
#33
Registered
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 326
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
hey
guys i really appreciate the advice gonna do some research and see what i can find.. as far the the rogue waves go lol it strictly is used on the lake no big waves at all .. lake is pretty much calm all the time .. but i really appreciate the advice sorry if it was like iwasn't listening you know what its like being young you just want to get it done lol ill do some research on what needs to be done.. also that might be a good idea taking the stock motor out and finding maybe a built motor? as far as hull speed etc would be nice to find someone that has pushed these things to see how it would handle in the 80's or 90s i know all about chine walk it aint fun at all ! thanks guys
06-23-2011, 01:26 PM
#34
Registered
iTrader: (1)
06-23-2011, 04:13 PM
#36
Registered
You obviously need to learn a valuable lesson the hard way (expensive way) Just because the boat handles good at 75 mph, means NOTHING. It could all go to chit at 80.
Next, you should NOT put a supercharger on an engine with 450 hours, no matter how easy it was run. It needs to be freshened (at least the top end) before adding an SC. Doesn't matter if it was idled for 450 hours. At a minimum, freshen the top end. You need to replace the head gaskets and exhaust valves any way. They WILL NOT stand up to 5 psi of boost.
If you get your buddy to do it for free, then you will get exactly what you pay for.......NOTHING. Is he a MARINE engine builder? Has he done any marine engine work before? If not, he has no business working on it. Remember the part about doing it right? That included having an experienced shop doing the work correctly. Is your buddy going to warranty it when it breaks? Is he going to buy you all new parts when the rods ventilate the oil pan? Probably not. Pay someone that knows what they are doing.
I'm not trying to be a dick. I have had many of these come into my shop over the years. They all started this exact same way. You are going to spend 8-10K minimum to do it right. Spend it now one time, or spend more of it later. It's up to you.
Listen to what these guys are telling you. You obviously came here for advice. You're getting it. It's just not what you want to hear. You want someone to tell you that you can do it for $10 and it will run like a clock for the next 32 years. That's not gonna happen. There is a wealth of knowledge hear if you are willing to listen and accept it.
You can take my advice if you wish. This is what I do every day of my life. I've been doing it for longer than I care to remember and I think I'm pretty damn good at it. If you read this well and heed my advice, I will have saved you countless thousands of dollars for free.
I would be willing to help you in any way I can...just ask. However, you have to be willing to take the advice even if it isn't what you want to hear. Good luck.
Eddie
Next, you should NOT put a supercharger on an engine with 450 hours, no matter how easy it was run. It needs to be freshened (at least the top end) before adding an SC. Doesn't matter if it was idled for 450 hours. At a minimum, freshen the top end. You need to replace the head gaskets and exhaust valves any way. They WILL NOT stand up to 5 psi of boost.
If you get your buddy to do it for free, then you will get exactly what you pay for.......NOTHING. Is he a MARINE engine builder? Has he done any marine engine work before? If not, he has no business working on it. Remember the part about doing it right? That included having an experienced shop doing the work correctly. Is your buddy going to warranty it when it breaks? Is he going to buy you all new parts when the rods ventilate the oil pan? Probably not. Pay someone that knows what they are doing.
I'm not trying to be a dick. I have had many of these come into my shop over the years. They all started this exact same way. You are going to spend 8-10K minimum to do it right. Spend it now one time, or spend more of it later. It's up to you.
Listen to what these guys are telling you. You obviously came here for advice. You're getting it. It's just not what you want to hear. You want someone to tell you that you can do it for $10 and it will run like a clock for the next 32 years. That's not gonna happen. There is a wealth of knowledge hear if you are willing to listen and accept it.
You can take my advice if you wish. This is what I do every day of my life. I've been doing it for longer than I care to remember and I think I'm pretty damn good at it. If you read this well and heed my advice, I will have saved you countless thousands of dollars for free.
I would be willing to help you in any way I can...just ask. However, you have to be willing to take the advice even if it isn't what you want to hear. Good luck.
Eddie
06-23-2011, 04:26 PM
#37
Registered
Now, here is what I would do. Leave it stock and enjoy the boat untill you are ready to do it right. Maybe start with exhaust upgrade, that will not harm the engine and will be needed later. Most of us here have the speed bug and it is hard to get rid of. Most say its a terminal illness 
, my boat started at 55MPH and I am now at 74. I would like to run faster but that will open up a can of worms, I have everything matched and performing well. To upgrade will require some major mods. We know were you are coming from, just trying to give you good advice. I blew mine up a few times before getting mine dialed in, it gets expensive.
, my boat started at 55MPH and I am now at 74. I would like to run faster but that will open up a can of worms, I have everything matched and performing well. To upgrade will require some major mods. We know were you are coming from, just trying to give you good advice. I blew mine up a few times before getting mine dialed in, it gets expensive.
06-23-2011, 08:01 PM
#38
Registered
Platinum MemberJoin Date: Mar 2008
Location: Vancouver BC
Posts: 1,181
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I'm pretty sure the Mag engines do not have the inconel exhaust valves. I called Mercury Racing myself to verify this, as I had a set of 502 Mag heads I wanted to run, and I wanted to see if they had the good valves. Merc told me that they only upgraded the valves, springs, etc on the blue motors. The black motors just run whatever GM puts in them.
And I agree with you, the Bravo will be fine for that application.
06-23-2011, 10:40 PM
#39
Registered
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 326
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
hey
sounds like a good winter project for me ! thanks for letting me know about the supercharger .. so you would go with a procharger vs any other supercharges on the market? now as far as exhuast goes how can i change this.. it has thru the leg exhaust and a switch to turn it straight out the back so not much restriction when i flip it out the back .. once again great advice from everyone and i appreciate u looking out for my safety .. i just want to make sure when i do it right i get all the right parts ! .. and how do i find out if my motor has inconel exhaust valves in it?
06-23-2011, 10:46 PM
#40
GM Powertrain who supplies the long blocks to Merc, volvo, etc. puts inconel exhaust valves in and super hard seats. Some of the engines get used for industrial power plants and run on propane and natural gas. Maybe some don't have them but all the ones I've seen do. Here's the GM replacement part # 14097049..
And I agree with you, the Bravo will be fine for that application.
And I agree with you, the Bravo will be fine for that application.
I just don't know the real answer, and I'm not a metallurgist. I almost ran the valves that came in my heads. Believe me, I did some digging on the web to try to determine what they are. I even found an article that said you can identify Inconel by the spark pattern when it is held up to a grinding wheel, and I tried this with an old pitted valve from the same heads. Spark pattern seemed consistent with a high nickel alloy, but so did the old garden variety stainless intake that I had laying around. In the end, I decided not to take a chance, and replaced both intake and exhaust valves with a good set of REV's and Ferrea's.
