holley fuel lines leaking....
 

so i have a new holley carb and bought this hard chrome line for it finanlly got my motor to fire tonight after weeks of battling issue after issue.... anyway this hard line leaks like crazy where it bolts into the carb bowls. originally i didnt have it real tight as i didnt think flare fittings needs to be reefed down. so i cranked it down real tight, still leaks... i had this motor on the dyno and they ran there own steel braided fuel lines to my carb bowls and they didnt leak so i know the carb fitting are good. anyone had issues with this holley line before???

I had to make all new steel custom bent lines from my fuel filter to pump and pump to this hard line and sure enough a few of those 6 other flare fittings leak also..... fun fun fun... another holiday weekend goes by with no boating, just swearing at the boat instead...


and to top it off my Y pipe rubber boots from my silent choice diverters leak waster also.:hitfan:

http://static.summitracing.com/globa...y-34-150_w.jpg

Didnt I warn you in another thread about that cheap, sh*tty line ? And the dyno guys used the same line I suggested you buy ? Hmmmmmmmmmm....interesting. :drink:

the line they used is NOT USCG approved which is why i didnt go that route......

but hey thanks for the help anyway:violent-smiley-021:

Slap some RTV on the mating faces and tighten lightly - wait 10 -20 minutes and then tighten them up.

I never had a lot of luck with those chromed lines either. I had one on my 67 Camaro that leaked, and I was able to get it to stop by putting some teflon thread tape on the backside of the flare where the fitting contacted it. Try that, but be careful not to let it get into the joint itself. If that stuff finds its way inside the carb, it will clog something up.

Can't see RTV helping anything - I think it turns to jelly in the presence of gasoline.

If the leak is at the flare simply use some SECO seals. They come in all sizes and material (copper aluminum) and are inexpensive. You probably have a -6 size.

rtv is not fuel proof and will disolve and this is the most dangerous and stupid solution ever suggested on this board on any topic.

you might want to look inside the bores and make sure that the taper thats at the bottom that that line is supposed to seal against is the same as the one on the lines... we aren't talking rocket science here... only about a billion holly carbs have been made and lines attached to them successfully. take the carb and line down to your local speed shop and have someone that knows what they are looking at identify the problem before your next post starts with " gee i was cranking the boat and it caught fire and then burned my garage and house down and the insurance company won't pay because they said it was self inflicted"

TMak, are these the little copper gaskets for flare fittings? If so, I was able to successfully correct a leaking fuel line on my Suburban with one of these. The soft copper acts like a gasket by taking up the space caused by irregularity on the flare surface. If they can hold the kind of pressure generated by brake systems, they should be fine for holding 6-10 PSI of fuel pressure.

You probably won't find them at your local Home Depot or Autozone. I had to get mine from a hydraulic supply company.

those look pretty good, doesnt look like i can get them anyplace local unfortunately after doing a few web searchs....

That fuel line is for a car...

This will work for your boat


http://www.jegs.com/i/Russell/799/641090/10002/-1

Fuel leaking issues
 

Well well I thought I was the only one who spends the best holiday weekends working on there boat and having any fun on it!!.... lol
I also had a fuel leak with steel lines and tried a few types of lines one just like the one you have pictured the other was when I went to the auto parts store bought some high grade line and made my own only to have the places that I flared crack and break! I talked with a few HP boat shops and they ALL told me to run steel braided lines ! I checked with the USCG and they said yes they are good. I found out all the USCG line is for is to buy you more time to either get the fire out or get off the boat ! Thats it and any line with braided covering is going to buy you more time! I bought a line kit from summit and all of the fittings needed to make the line from the tank to the carb steel braided. Have been checked out by the law and passed...... and no more fuel leaks.. :-)

well i found one of those copper crush washers for a flare fitting at lowes today, fixed that leak immediately. now the 3/8 pipe threads going in and out of my fuel pressure regulator have a small leak... man one thing after another!!

So whats the best sealer to use on pipe threads in a fuel system?? i know my OEM stuff had some red sealer on it but no idea what it was???

I use nothing but braided line for everything with AN fittings. A little more costly but in the long run works the best. i wouldn't use a ridgid line at all. There's alot of vibration and eventually it will crack, especially on a fuel line after the pump. Big problem real fast!

He asks for advice....but doesnt wanna listen. :picard1:

I never heard of a crush washer for a flare fitting. i don't really do my boat engine shopping at lowes. or my auto shopping either for that matter. The flare makes the seal, usually. i don't know, maybe I've been doing it wrong all these years? It's gonna leak, mark my words, it's only a matter of time. Just hope it doesn't blow up when it does, but they always have to have that pretty chrome line. JUNK!

:eek:NONE

No pipe sealer

:eek:

I don't make it a habit of buying my marine parts at auto parts stores either.

After checking with a few boat performance shops they all said NOT to hard plumb the fuel system even though the manufacture does !
I was told that with all of the vibrations the engine has even more so when you mod one with a bigger cam & headers different RPM range that your asking for trouble if you hard plumb !
I noticed that Jeggs & summit have some marine parts listed so I gave them a call. Summit set me right up with all of the lines & fittings needed to use 1/2" steel braided lines from the tank to the carb and have been trouble free for 3 yrs now.......

Scuse me??????????? NPT threads are supposed to be sealed with either tape ( not for fuel systems ) or thread sealer. If you crank a brass fitting into an aluminum housing with NPT threads tight enough not to leak under pressure, the aluminum threads are now permantly phucked.

The tape only acts as a lubricant. The wedge action of the tapered threads is what does the sealing. :drink: