morrowcarl72

ok so once again i have a 1995 mirage intruder 217.... 502 carburated.... etc

it has a issue with really wanting to lean to the passenger side. i will admit both batteries are on that side, but that doesnt make enough of a difference in my mind.... at low speeds(under 20) and a dead stop it really wants to sit way angled that way. im 225lbs and my gf is 110lbs.... her on that side is enough to make it lean to the left.... at low speeds it took both me and my other 225lbs buddy on the right side with her on the left to sit straight in the water with no trim tabs down...... but as soon as you get to 30 or above.... only went 40-45 this weekend due to the fact that im still in the break in period it is different. We had to perfectly balance the weight or it wanted to turn hard to the over weighed side.


also what are the recommendations for break in....

so far i got it running timed it put it in the water and followed my engine guys advice to initially seat the rings. (15 minutes in drive at 1500-1600rpm let it cool down to 125, check fluids and essentials then 15-20 min at 2000-2200 then cool down again and repeat checks)
from there i basically ran it 10-20 more minutes cycling from 2k-3k.... 3200=40mph on gps with trim tabs adjusted and slight adjustment to drive trim

now im just curious where to go with continuing break in

picklenjim

The torque of a right hand rotating prop thats bites good on a single will make a boat list to port. However you say it even does it when your at a dead stop. Quess you will just have to correct with your tabs when underway.

1987pachanga22

If I were you I would check for rot on that side. The extra water soaked up in the wood could cause the condition you are talking about.

I love my 88 intruder!

Dave M

Try a LH prop and see what happens.

hondahp4

your leaning issue sounds very odd. are your tabs working correctly? do you have one that is stuck down? do you have a spot in your hull that might hold water that you can't see, say between your floor and hull or the side and hull? maybe you have a clogged drain tube. i know in mine (and i'm not real familiar with your boat), there is a drain tube that runs under the deck to drain the cuddy and bow back to the stern, where it can be drained out the plug. does it sit straight in neutral, or does it it do it both in and out of gear?

as for your break-in, sounds like you did it correctly. there is a huge difference of opinion when it comes to break-in, and you will get 10 diff answers from 10 different people. the most important part is to break in the cam in the first 20ish minutes. my builder told me to run it around 1500-2000 rpms for 20 minutes. the key part is to not let it idle. the cam lobes are only lubricated through splashing, so its important to run it off idle so you get enough slinging of oil to thoroughly lube everything. after that, its important to vary your rpms as much as possible. the changing of rpms and varied loading, varies your vacuum on the cylinders (and thus rings). the varying vacuum will help push and pull the rings against the cylinder walls, and seat them correctly. if you don't vary the rpms enough, you will wear out your crosshatch before your rings are seated correctly and you will be stuck with blow-by for the life of the engine (or re-hone it). my builder also said to run it like i'm going to run it everyday during break-in, just let it cool between hard runs. once you do your cam breakin, don't be afraid to run it. if it doesn't blow up in the first hour, chances are it will be fine, run it. just be aware to let it cool after hard runs, vary your rpms, keep an eye on oil pressure, oil temp (if you have it), and engine temp. also, it might be beneficial to do a hard pull with it, then shut it down and pull a plug and read it. this insures you have proper fueling, and are running correctly.

Griff

Like was said, the prop torque will make it lean. The batteries or at least one of them should be moved to the starboard side to help reduce it also. Both my 24 Outlaw and 28 Pantera behaved similarly. Leaned to port at lower speeds, but then with more trim and speed they evened out.

brickhead

prop torque. Use your trim tabs. Mine does the same if I don't level out with the tabs.

509 SC

I had the same thing at low speeds with my Sonic. I went to a left hand prop, changed the shift cable around and the problem went away.
Steve

onesickpantera

iTrader: (1)

I agree with prop torque for slow running. But the "dead stop" part with have nothing to do with prop torque.