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Originally Posted by mrfixxall
(Post 3482716)
when adjusting the 4 corner air fuel screws adjust a tiny bit at a time..even if you just adjust the 2 front ones and not touching the rear ones may cure it..It only takes a little bit of adjustment then wait to see it it clears..most people will go 1/4 turn and then the motor dies then gives up...their real touchy..adjust then wait a few minutes for idle to clear then rev it to see if the engine stumbles then readjust..could take up to a 1/2 hour of messing with them to get it rite..
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Originally Posted by articfriends
(Post 3482799)
Well, you are nowhere near the power valve opening point so you can rule that out, do both motors do the same exact thing?
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One thing i did mess with is the secondary idle adjustment. I changed the adjuster to the new quick fuel type with the screw and spring on top for easy access. I know there is an adjustment for that something like .020-0.60 of throttle blade before the transfer slot shows. I could never figure out how to set them with a feeler gauge.. They are in the closed position now. Besides this adjustment there are 4 holes drilled in the throttle blades for additional air flow. Nickerson carbs originally set them up like this.
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still sounds like carb issue, but you asked how timing get can do that...with very light springs they can start moving around at idle, causing timing to bounce around...then starts idling a bit slower, that retards timing slowing idle even more, timing then falls off as idle falls..a circle until stalls...
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