procharger experts needed
 

I found a complete procharger for a grand. Im waiting for the guy to get back to me on what mdel it is. All he knew so far was it was for a carbed 454.
If a person were to run it at 5 psi, how do you figure out the jetting math? Is there a percentage you go up in jets? or????
Right now i have a holley HP marine 830cfm on my 454 pushing around 450hp. I realize ill have to buy a blower carb.
thanks in advance!

Hopefully some procharger guys can add more info, but I have heard of problems keeping belts on them.

The belt problems will be the least of his problems with a blow thru carb set-up!! The thing with the belts is really when you try running alot of boost it has to be rubber band tight, at 5-7 psi this is usually a non-issue, Smitty

zeke, you send the carb to The Carb Shop and get it jetted and sealed for a blow thru charger system... thats it. Not something you should do at home unless you want the hassles of it never working properly for you.

If you dont want to send carb out to get it done save the $1000 run your motor the way it is.

I run a blow thru carb setups...no issues as of yet..had carb built by prosystems, fuel system critical, need areomotive 1000 pump, #10 line, big filter, aero boost referenced regulator with return to the tank..you will spend more that the 1k to get it all setup correctly, no issues at that boost on belt slippage as long as belt is good and adjusted correctly...you can modify your carb but ???

If he's got the complete Procharger carb boxes, then he doesn't need to go nuts with the carbs. Just make sure the floats are Nitrophyl (not brass) so they won't try to crush, run a decent boost indexed external pressure regulator, and a high volume high pressure electric fuel pump. Jetting is a little tricky if you don't get the powervalve opening point out of the equation. Some people do away with the powervalves altogether, but I like to tweak them in for cruise. In lieu of tweaking exactly for a specific boat, there is another school of thought to run low (like 2.5HG) powervalves in the primaries (none in secondaries) which allows you to jet a little lighter for cruise.

So easiest method is to start with 2.5HG powervalves in primaries and jet "up" about 12 jet sizes.

Make sure you have a fuel pressure gauge tee'd onto the fuel line to the carbs. Set the external regulator to 6psi and tap the differential port to the carb hat. I assume you will have a boost gauge, and for TUNING you should hook it to the carb hat so you can verify that the regulator is keeping the differential pressure constant (hat pressure = 0, fuel pressure = 6 hat pressure = 5, fuel pressure =11, and so on). After tuning is all done, I prefer to run the boost gauge to the manifold pressure port, but that's later...

So you have good fuel flow at all hat pressures...
You have 2.5 powervalves and really fat main jets.

So go take her for a spin.
If you have a good ear for motors, you can get close with your ears and plug chops. I bet you'll end up 8 sizes fatter than before.

If you have an open plenum intake and large hole carb spacer, you can jet square or staggered. You'll get best cruise economy staggering, but without EGT sensors on all 8, you're safest jetting square.

Have fun.
MC

ok got the specs from the guy.
M1 procharger wth msd knock alert, aero fuel pump, belt and intercooler all complete with manuals for a grand.
so i think im gonna grab it its too good of a deal not too..

thanks for the great carb info mcollinstn

Carb box?
Regulator?

Make sure the Aeromotive pump has the updated magnet assembly. The older style would grenade the pump when used with fuel containing alcohol (glue holding magnets in would turn loose in the presence of alky, thus turning the pump into a total loss).

MC

If you don't take it, I will! Procharger's headquarters is about a mile from my house! And I allready have a full Aeromitive(2 miles) setup. Talk about cheap power! But I would send the unit to Procharger and have them go through it. Inspection and or rebuild fee is allways less than a new head unit, and or motor.

Minor rebuild (seals and bearings) at procharger is still expensive, major rebuild on mine was 2000$, a new head unit was 4500$:eek:, I would just run it unless it sounds like it has gravel in it, Smitty

has the box, not sure about the regulator. im picking it up tomorow.
Is it possible to run my holley mechanical high volume fuel pump?

Im running 85's in my carb now, ill swing into our local race shop and get jets up to 12 higher and 2.5 valves and the floats you told me to get

fixx
 

no! the fuel pressure will have to match the boost,,if your running 6 psi now and for every pound of boost you will need additional 0ne pound of fuelpressure..so if your carb is now using 6 psi and your running 5 psi pf boost you will need 11 psi of fuel pressure..mechanical pump wont recover that fast unless your using a vein style mechanical pump..

the carb
using a procharger,people ussually run a smaller cfm,example a stock 365 mag will use a 650 cfm carb,502`will use a 750 cfm carb,,a procharged motor also like annular booster style carb. you will also need to modify the pv circuit,they need to be drilled because they will only flow so much fuel as needed and you will e using allot bigger jet then needed..

no carb box, so now im in a debate what to do, everything else is there but the carb box and regulator.

and my carb is an 830cfm HP holley marine carb so it is the annular boost style carb.
anotherr guy in an earlier post to this forum said to run a 2.5 powervalve and go 12 up on the mains to start

1st thing is to find the box...been some on here used..maybe still are..they are over $700 new...you can try to mod your carb and see..but I would send to prosystems and get done right...if you don't bad things are going to happen...also fuel system is CRITICAL !!!! need the boost referenced regulator and a good elec pump like a aeromotive a1000...

You need a fuel pump that will flow at least 250 liters per hour at 20psi. This is a minimum number.

You "can" use a block-mounted mechanical fuel pump, but you can't use a "NORMAL" one (it has to be boost referenced and have really stout springs in it). A good electric is cheaper than the "right kind" of mechanical one, and even then they are limited to low boost applications.

Stick with an external pump and bypass regulator setup.

You HAVE to run a carb box for a marine procharger. A simple Paxton-style "hat" is not adequate (and not ever going to be "legal" for a boat).

I've got a couple of carb boxes, but I would rather move them as a matched set than one at a time.

MC

Carb box in Swap shop for $175. Is it the correct one?
http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/s...-carb-box.html

i bought the system, do you have to weld a fitting in the pan for the oil drop off on these systems?

no, read the instructions you said it had..they tell you what to do

Just curious what boost are most of you running?

fixx
 

6 psi,,

Running 7 psi on stock 502. Runs like a champ, and very reliable. I didnt cheap out on none of it. I did it right the first time. The fuel system is very very very important, if this is not done correctly I promise it will not work and a new motor will have to be purchased. When done correctly it really wakes a motor up. :lolhit:

That's the right box, but I don't see any of the necessary hardware. The complete box comes with a linkage for the throttle, and hoses and fittings for the fuel line, etc. The hardware itself is pretty nice, and would cost probably $100+ if you had to buy it or replicate it.

MC

Fixx
 

gen v and gen vi 8 qt oil pan has a plug you can remove and dunp the oil back into the pan.

I have got a gen iv with an aftermarket pan. I just have the oil drain at the bottom side.
Ive searched the forums and a few guys dumped it back into the block off on the fuel pump. im guessing thats not even close to right though

fixx
 

look at the side of the block above where the remote oil filter goes,,look either in front of it or above it on the side of the block,,their may be 2 plugs where for a oil cooler lines if it were in a truck.. you may be able to use the one that dunps the oil back in to the block..

not all the merc 8 qt pans have the plug...not sure why...I have 2 502's one has the plug, one does not...no you do not drill the pan....the instruction explain how to punch the pan and add the fitting..