47EXCALIBUR

you should be at 30deg timing at 8lbs of boost with an afr of 11.6 ish .... too less of timing could retard it to cause it to heat up,,,, also if its alittle lean could cause the same symtoms....if you have a 1/8mpt provision in the oil return side of the cooler thats where you want the temp sender

goebel1

iTrader: (2)

I have run this motor where it only pull out 6 degree no difference in oil temp. I have adjusted A/F 10.5 - 12.0 for wide open no real differents other than a little slower to get the heat. I do have a 1/8" fitting on the cooler. This would be a easy fix if it read that much cooler.

goebel1

iTrader: (2)

So let me understand... its not the oil temp in the pan I should be concern about but the oil comming out of the cooler back to the engine. If the oil is that hot in the pan is it not breaking down the oil from the hi temp???

47EXCALIBUR

keep the motor on the richer side at WOT to help it live as long as possible 11.5 @8lbs boost with aluminum heads,,,,11.0-11.2 with steel heads,,,and yes put the temp sender in the location of the cooler and watch the temp from there,,,,use a good quality oil 20-50royal purple,, mobil1 vtwin,,etc and change you oil every 25hrs with a blower motor,,,,and run the hell out of it.....fyi Mobil 1 Vtwin 20-50 will give you about 20*+ cooler difference in temp

Cole-One

I have been following along I don't know if this helps but I had had similar problems. I have the Hardin 620-775 oil coolers on 565's with 10-71's. The oil temp would creep up on me, I went through everything and spent a ton of money. I changed over from 500 HP's to the new bigger power and bought new everything including all oil and water senders, in the end I had the wrong oil temp senders. It took just about all summer to figure it out. I put the new senders in the side of the block, 190 all day long !!

DesertRage

iTrader: (2)

There seems to be two schools of thought on where to check oil temp. I check mine in the pan because I'm interested in the max temp the oil is getting to. If you over heat the oil it will break down. By checking after the cooler you know if its safe to go back into the motor but never see max temp or know if your baking it.

An easy check to see if your temp sender is correct or not would be to check it with an IR temp gun by shooting the pan after a good run.

I doubt its your thermostat in the oil cooler, it's most likely closing. It's probably not efficent enough or large enough for your application. I'm also running the harden Marine thermostatic oil cooler on a 675hp N/A motor. The cooler I have is rated for 700hp but after some time at WOT my temp will slowly creap up. I always back off around 240, but it will keep going if I let it.

If your interested in upgrading your cooler, look at the CP plate style coolers. They are advertised as a more efficent design. Also look at the monsterous double pass style teague sells with their big motors.

Poker Run style driving is much different than pleasure boating with the occasional short WOT blast.

goebel1

iTrader: (2)

I'll check it out
Thanks

mike tkach

iTrader: (3)

i would be changing the way your timing retard works,i run 34 or 35 deg of timing,dist is locked so timing stays the same at all rpm,s.easy starts,clean idle.your current setup is generating way to much heat in the cylinder at wot boost,it will kill your exhaust valves.btw,i am running9 to 10 lbs of boost with pump gas.

pqjack

most synthetic oils have a breakdown temp around 5-600 deg...that's what i like about synt.

Philm

pulling timing from a WOT engine will increase EGT's (exhaust gas temps) dramatically. this may be contributing to your heat problems. And can lead to tuliped/burned exhaust valves or melted pistons pretty quickly.