70mph To 80mph
10-28-2011, 09:22 AM
#21
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This is yor best bet 
All kidding aside. If you look hard enough you can find a set of 250 blowers with carbs that should get you 10 mph in your price range. If you want to keep the EFI and do a blow through it is going to be much more expensive.
The stock exhaust should also be replaced, but on the less expensive side you may be able to find used and save some money.
With used exhaust and used blowers I still think you are going to be at $10k, these projects have a way of at least doubling the $ amount before completion.
All kidding aside. If you look hard enough you can find a set of 250 blowers with carbs that should get you 10 mph in your price range. If you want to keep the EFI and do a blow through it is going to be much more expensive.
The stock exhaust should also be replaced, but on the less expensive side you may be able to find used and save some money.
With used exhaust and used blowers I still think you are going to be at $10k, these projects have a way of at least doubling the $ amount before completion.
10-28-2011, 12:30 PM
#22
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This is yor best bet
All kidding aside. If you look hard enough you can find a set of 250 blowers with carbs that should get you 10 mph in your price range. If you want to keep the EFI and do a blow through it is going to be much more expensive.
The stock exhaust should also be replaced, but on the less expensive side you may be able to find used and save some money.
With used exhaust and used blowers I still think you are going to be at $10k, these projects have a way of at least doubling the $ amount before completion.
All kidding aside. If you look hard enough you can find a set of 250 blowers with carbs that should get you 10 mph in your price range. If you want to keep the EFI and do a blow through it is going to be much more expensive.
The stock exhaust should also be replaced, but on the less expensive side you may be able to find used and save some money.
With used exhaust and used blowers I still think you are going to be at $10k, these projects have a way of at least doubling the $ amount before completion.
11-03-2011, 08:33 PM
#24
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I remember not soo long ago this would have been one of my answers..
I know what it's like to be lookin' for more.
Above all, the cheapest speed increase you will ever get is to really spend the time and money getting your props right. But you gotta do it all the way. This has been my experience and I'm not talking from the bar stool. I've spent a little on mine over the years.
Believe it or not, the 2nd best thing you can do sometimes to help performance is to inventory every item in your boat. If you don't use it much, leave it at home. Misc items under seats and in storage compartments get heavy quick. Leave your water tanks empty if you don't need water that day. Leave your anchor rode at home if you are not going to use it. Move any and all items closest to the keel in the boat and as far back as possible. Sounds nutz but people leave all sorts of heavy things in their boats over time and forget about it..
If you don't wanna build the engines from the ground up to be a hot rod, then you can cheat and make it faster for a while by using blowers or pro-chargers. I don't know of a forced induction part that is only 5k but there might be some out there (especially used).
It's one thing to be on a budget. It's entirely a different thing to try to be on a budget & go faster while still maintaining solid reliability.
Two of the three really don't go together. Mixing all 3 ingredients will cost even more than doing it the first time.
But I know how ya feel. I wish you luck in whatever you decide.
Today, if you're good at marketing your boat and if it's in decent shape, you could easily sell your boat and buy a much faster boat with less extra, out-of-pocket than what it will net you to make the Hallet run 10mph faster.
And no mod ever goes off without some issues so when you factor in all the additional, unexpected things that happen, you're money ahead to grab another boat.
I know what it's like to be lookin' for more.
Above all, the cheapest speed increase you will ever get is to really spend the time and money getting your props right. But you gotta do it all the way. This has been my experience and I'm not talking from the bar stool. I've spent a little on mine over the years.
Believe it or not, the 2nd best thing you can do sometimes to help performance is to inventory every item in your boat. If you don't use it much, leave it at home. Misc items under seats and in storage compartments get heavy quick. Leave your water tanks empty if you don't need water that day. Leave your anchor rode at home if you are not going to use it. Move any and all items closest to the keel in the boat and as far back as possible. Sounds nutz but people leave all sorts of heavy things in their boats over time and forget about it..
If you don't wanna build the engines from the ground up to be a hot rod, then you can cheat and make it faster for a while by using blowers or pro-chargers. I don't know of a forced induction part that is only 5k but there might be some out there (especially used).
It's one thing to be on a budget. It's entirely a different thing to try to be on a budget & go faster while still maintaining solid reliability.
Two of the three really don't go together. Mixing all 3 ingredients will cost even more than doing it the first time.
But I know how ya feel. I wish you luck in whatever you decide.
Today, if you're good at marketing your boat and if it's in decent shape, you could easily sell your boat and buy a much faster boat with less extra, out-of-pocket than what it will net you to make the Hallet run 10mph faster.
And no mod ever goes off without some issues so when you factor in all the additional, unexpected things that happen, you're money ahead to grab another boat.
12-20-2011, 09:09 PM
#25
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Do you have external steering now?
If not you'd best be getting another 7-10K ready for a steering kit.
Thats a heavy boat - If you get 30 feet of that bad boy rolling at 80 chances are at that speed when you turn the wheel not much is going to happen.
Keep that bag "O" money flowing my friend.
UD
If not you'd best be getting another 7-10K ready for a steering kit.
Thats a heavy boat - If you get 30 feet of that bad boy rolling at 80 chances are at that speed when you turn the wheel not much is going to happen.
Keep that bag "O" money flowing my friend.
UD
12-20-2011, 09:55 PM
#26
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More Speed
Hello all. I want to take my 70mph boat and make it an 80mph boat. Here are the particulars.
1995 Hallett 300 30'
Twin 502 EFI stock
Bravo 1 outdrives
4 blade off the shelf props not sure of pitch
It runs a good solid 70 trimmed and good water. Want her to go faster. I would like to keep it reliable but I understand there need to be a good many changes. What to do?????
Thanks in advance.
1995 Hallett 300 30'
Twin 502 EFI stock
Bravo 1 outdrives
4 blade off the shelf props not sure of pitch
It runs a good solid 70 trimmed and good water. Want her to go faster. I would like to keep it reliable but I understand there need to be a good many changes. What to do?????
Thanks in advance.
Good Luck.
Last edited by Inspector; 12-20-2011 at 09:57 PM.
12-21-2011, 07:41 AM
#27
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Add another zero to that $5,000. At least. You will need minimum XR drives and new props and, as mentioned, full steering if you don't have it. Then let's talk about the engines. Bolting on ProChargers is the cheap way out but you will still need the ECMs mapped, preferably on a dyno and again on the water. Now you are giving up some reliability and are SCing an engine not built for that (wrong cam, too high compression etc.). I spent nearly $50,000 to make my little Donzi go from everyday 73 to everyday 83 (best 86). That's with a single. But I did it right with a 525, XR/Imco, Zeiger steering, BBlades Bravo 1 and lots of little stuff. Then the exhaust holes had to be relocated and the transom painted.
12-21-2011, 01:20 PM
#29
Platinum Member
I know I'm probley going to get flak about this, because i dont here alot about the use of it on here,
but here we go, about 20yrs ago i had a 24 ft checkmate inforcer, had 420 merc in it,this was the cheapest and easiest way to make more power for me back then, and it worked, gained 10mph at least thats what the old water wheel said (no GPS back then), went from 73 to 83 at the push of the button, and that was with NOS plate system, used 125hp jets, and a hyrdomotive stern lifting prop....that little checkmate ate up alot of boats....I'd wait till i was topped out on the motor, maybe let the other guy get alittle ahead, and then hit the button, it was on....it was like kicking in another motor that was at max hp......fun times......
but here we go, about 20yrs ago i had a 24 ft checkmate inforcer, had 420 merc in it,this was the cheapest and easiest way to make more power for me back then, and it worked, gained 10mph at least thats what the old water wheel said (no GPS back then), went from 73 to 83 at the push of the button, and that was with NOS plate system, used 125hp jets, and a hyrdomotive stern lifting prop....that little checkmate ate up alot of boats....I'd wait till i was topped out on the motor, maybe let the other guy get alittle ahead, and then hit the button, it was on....it was like kicking in another motor that was at max hp......fun times......
12-21-2011, 01:24 PM
#30
If you are willing to take a chance you could sell your 502s complete (plenty of people with twin 330hp 454s looking to upgrade). Then keep your eyes peeled for two low hour HP500s or 500EFIs.
That would probably get you half way there(5mph) and then you have the CMI exhaust for future mods. Down the road you can freshen the heads, do some porting and a cam swap for another 50 or so hp.
You can always look for used steering over the winter too. Easily could pay much less than half of new.
Just my point oh two for trying to do it on a budget. Breaks up the costs into "stages".
That would probably get you half way there(5mph) and then you have the CMI exhaust for future mods. Down the road you can freshen the heads, do some porting and a cam swap for another 50 or so hp.
You can always look for used steering over the winter too. Easily could pay much less than half of new.
Just my point oh two for trying to do it on a budget. Breaks up the costs into "stages".
