Pulling Engines
 

Both engines are coming out of the Formula. I will be pulling them but am hesitant to use my carb plates on top of the 177 supercharges to pull. Is there any engine pull brackets that are supercharger friendly that can be installed on the intake? I will be pulling the motors and and transmissions together. the motors are mounted with offshore plates on the front and the only rear support is the transmission mount to the transom plate.

I just made up some brackets like these that mount to the front & rear of the heads. don't know if they would work for your situation though.

http://www.cpperformance.com/p-12532...ting-ring.aspx

http://www.jegs.com/i/Pit+Pal/777/201/10002/-1

http://www.toolfetch.com/Category/Sh...208.htm?nogs=1

just use brackets thats how we did mine.i also used straps instead of chains cause i didnt want to scratch my motors up.

Johny, Did you use standard automotive lifting brackets off a big block? Have a couple sets around the yard?

I have 2 nylon straps that are about 7 ft long with eyes on the ends. We run them under the exhaust and bring the eyes together at the lifting hook. Put all 4 eyes (loops) over the hook and pick it up. You are essentially holding the engine at 4 corners so it's very stable. Works great. Been doing it this way for years and won't do it any other way.
Before I got the nylon straps, I used a pair of rubber coated steel cables. They sell them to lock up a bike or motorcycle. They have an eye in the ends of the cable for a padlock. You can get them at Home Depot or Ace for a few dollars.
Eddie

Please don't lift using the carb plate. Four 5/16 bolts in aluminum threads picking up a fully dressed big block and tranny sounds dangerous to me.

ditto on that ,could be starting a whole nother thread :eek:

I'll give a great tip here - they make adjustable spreader bars.

These things are great - allow you to clear the carbs/arrestors and also allow you to turn the handle and adjust the height front to back. It proved really helpful throughout the process. Not NECESSARY - but great to have.

for sure do not use the carb bracket. will distort supercharger casting. I always use a long bolt on the end of each head and have a four corner pull attach to bolt in center of chain

Thanks guys, I was sure the carb plates were a bad idea. I am trying to pull the motors with the exhaust manifolds and front accesories still attached to the block. I have an engine leveler that I plan to use. I think I will go with Eddies advice on the cable. I already have one or two in the garage, just did not think about using them...

I dropped a 500HP with a 177 blower lifting it into my 36 OL. I had to remove the stock lifting hooks after the blowers so I bolted the ends of the load leveler chains to the heads. The bolt in the back of the head was a little long, and bottomed out before the chain was tight. I went with it.

The rollers that glide along the beam for the hoist were stuck from all the dirt and debri that collected on the beam. When the engine was raised up to about 8 feet to clear the boat the hoist did not want to slide. I gave it a tug, standing on the boat, it swung over the bilge, swung back and the bolt snapped. The engine fell, hit the side of the boat near the transom, bounced off that and landed on the other engine! Was about the scariest thing I have ever seen.

Spider cracks on the boat. Tons of new parts were needed for both engines. But the worst part was the hidden damage, the exhaust had a small dent that I missed which eventually caused an internal water leak. Later while boating that leak sprung, flooding my supercharged engine with water and destroying it before I read anything abnormal on the gauges.

All in all, not using the proper lifting hooks cost me over $20k, and half my summer.

Here is what it looks like. You can either run the strap under the headers and bring all of the eyes together, or you can install longer bolts in the end exhaust holes and put the eyes over the bolts. Here are a few pics. These straps are 1" wide and are rated to 3200 lbs each. I ordered them from ENCO for about $12 each.
Eddie

Be careful using long bolts & if you do, get some Grade 5 or Grade 8 bolts that will have less chance of bending if the straps are too far away from the block. The shear strength of the bolts is 10 times what the motor weighs but a weaker bolt will bend and fail.

I just lifted my engines fully dressed last weekend. They have blowers and stellings headers. We have one of those leveling attachments, that my buddy welded some arms on. Basically, 4 chains come off of it, one to each corner of the head. Clears the blowers fine, and still can angle the engines. I only use grade 8 bolts for lifting. But by lifting at 4 corners, you spreading the load out. 2 bolts for lifting scares me.

I agree with the other guys, dont use a carb plate!! I would imagine a fully dressed big block, with trannies attached, has to be close to 1000 lbs....

Eddie Young's setup is really sweet, like the straps alot.

I just bear hug the motor and lift it right out.. man you guys are weak!

Or you could always go RICER STYLE:


http://torontopaseoclub.com/albums/A...0319.sized.jpg

lol

Dan, aren't those your teepee poles for when you go camping? Great way to put them to use!

Dammit Joe why you bust me out EVERYTIME!!!

I was just trying to put a bigger motor in my tow vehicle GEEZ!

I don't like the idea of lifting by bolts in aluminum heads. I do similar to Eddie, except I pass a huge tow strap all the way under the oil pan fore and aft. 25' worked perfect to clear my induction. I removed the #2 spark plug, otherwise everything else looked good. Each leg of the strap really has only about 300 lb tension, so it doesn't hurt the pan or anything with a nice big strap.

Just the thought of dropping one of these things makes me want to puke.

I have been looking for a good a frame hoist that can be taken apart and stored. Where did you find the one in the picture? Or did you make it. That is a real good looking set up.

Thanks

I was also curious about the gantry crane in the pic. Thats exactly what I need...

Same here. Been looking all over the internet for a gantry like that with the 4x4 holding up the steel i-beam on top. The best is it looks easy to assemble and disassemble for storage

bump bump!

Thanks,

I designed it and made it myself. None of the commercial ones are tall or wide enough. I used a w6x12 and had the end plates plasma cut.

I have an engineering firm, and can provide stamped drawings and the NC files for the end plates so you could get them cut at your local steel vendor.

This one is good for around 3000 lb. I initially had it in my driveway at my old place, but I took it down and set it back up on casters in the new shop.

Most people here have the means to deal with something this size, but it takes some doing to get it assembled and uprighted.

I think my steel costs were about $250 including the beam, and the 4x6's were maybe another $50. Bolts another $30.

Anybody that's interested pm me and we'll work something out.