CMI header removal
 

Looks like cylinders 1 and 8 have a bolt that is VERY tight to the header. I'm sure if I swear enough and hold my tongue just right I will get it sooner or later(vice grips may break it loose but not a lot of room there). I figured before I bloody my knuckles I would see if anyone had any tricks/pointers for removing this bolt.

Thanks!

http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s...HeaderBolt.jpg

Forgot to mention they're 5/16" allen head bolts. I'm thinking a modified/shortened allen wrench may get in there.

Have you tried a ball end allen from the bottom? it should fit

Allen bolts on cmi
 

5/16th allen wobble head, I use a 4'' with an electric impact. Zips them right out. :coolcowboy:

Going to borrow a ball-end after work. It might work but man it is tight!

If not a modded allen wrench cut on the shorter end might mork.

Thanks for the suggestions.

Ball end with a box end wrench on the other end broke it loose. These things are way lighter than I though they would be!

Glad it wasn't a problem for ya!

I used ARP stainless studs on my CMI's and really liked them compared to using bolts.

I have studs on my Stellings, but only on the 4 bolts where the tube sweeps in the opposite direction. Tight side has allen bolts. Would love to be able to do them all on studs. But at least having the other ones on studs makes life easier installing and removing.

fixx
 

you would think all the money spent on thease marine headers the engineers would give you a little extra room arounf the tubes to make the job go easier..i usuallly take out the easy ones first and leave the ones in the fromt and back in with a few threads in the head,then work the tight ones and the header will move with the bolt as its be removed..

That's how I do it, I loosen all the stud mounted nuts, then go for the tight Allen heads. Wiggling the header helps get those little allens out. I agree on that design issue too! Wtf.