K Plane pins?
 

I have to remove the cylinder from one of my K Planes because it is leaking badly.
I have tried every thing to get the dam pins out that connect the plane to the transom plate and can not get them to budge.
I have beat on them w/a hammer. heated them, soaked them w/penatrating oil, disconected the hoses and wiggled the plane up and down to remove pressure, a combination of all of the above and the dam pins still will not move!!!

I have thought about trying to push the pins out w/ a gear puller, but I am too afraid that will put too much pressure on the cast transom plate and break it. Is there a special trick to doing this?

Can some one please help me with ideas to get this f#cker out!

the last time i removed some pins i heated them up till the rubber bushings started to melt!!! It was the only way i could bust them loose!!

Yea, you may have to heat-up the casting quickly with an oxy-acytelene torch, but protect the cylinders from the heat! Just don't beat on the pins too much since they will mushroom and the you will never get 'em out without cutting them off. In fact you may want to take a micrometer and measure the diamerter of the pin at the end you were beating on to make that it is not too mishroomed to pass through the pin bore in the casting.

BTW, are the K-plane pins retained by circlips on nuts? I think the circlip retained pins are now discontinued.

Forrest they have the clips. The head did mushroom so I ground off the mushroomed part so it was flush w/ the housing and tried beating on it again , still no luck the thing that sucks is I ground past the groove for the ring so if I do get it out I will have to geet a new pin.

As a last resort you could take it to a machinist have them bored out.

I cut mine with a saw and then was able to drive the ones on the boat out no problem and then press the one out of the piston. I then got new pins. If you heat it up be very carefull about the heat transfering to the boat. Alluminum does not like to be heated up quickly.

Jon

Too Old sorry but no:mad: I kind of gave up on it for now

This winter I am pullling the whole assemblies off of the boat to blast and paint them, With the whole thing off of the boat I will be able to heat and beat :p without worrying about damage to the boat, I will probably try to press them out:confused:

Man those things are a b!tch I wailed on those thing w/ a 20lb. sledge hammer and accomplished nothing, except a huge chunk missing out of the transom where I missed the pin:mad: :mad:

If you have the time to remove whole thing from the transom of the boat I would definately do it, that way you can also soak them in WD-40 or a similar solvent.

Let me know if you have any luck or find a better way:)

Hey hear is a brain storm. Rebuild the cylinder on the boat:rolleyes: :rolleyes: Just thought of that. Can I get a DUH from the croud :D:D

Mine just slid out when I change the 280 to 380's tabs. Lucky me.

I've got the same issue with mine. They are the old style with the "C" clits. Glad I found out the easy way it's a lost cause before I through the hammer thru the boat.

I just can't stand not being able to take things apart. I'll usually try until I break something, then have an excuse to buy new. I'll just take them off the boat before any more pounding. I couldn't deal with having to paint them all together on the boat.

Bravo to you Fred, good luck with them.

While we're on this topic, does anyone have the Merc part no. for the flat washers that go on the old style (c clip type) pins?

Too Old,
C clip part # is 53-844229.

I still have a bag of those clips left if you want them. I drilled mine for cotter pins. I would keep soaking the hinge down with PB Blast. That stuff seems to work way better than anything else I have ever tried.

I remember a while back there was a post about those clips and some one got them from McMaster Car.

TooOld they are looking good :D:D

Jon

Unless they have changed, the McMaster Carr clips are light-duty and not suitable at all for this application. Buy the Merc part.

Hinge pins
 

I used a right angle grinder with a
2 to 2 1/2 inch cut off wheel and cut in
between ever single hinge joint.

Then you can get them out pretty easy
but you will still need a little heat.

I ordered the new pins through
Mcmaster Carr.
I ordered ( Nitronic 50 Stainless Steel).
It's better than 316, they use it for
shafting application's etc.

1/2 dia X 3' long $30.22
part # 9076K11

Cut it to your length's and put it
on a lathe for your groove for your
clips and your in business.

www.mcmaster.com

Good Luck
Cougarman

Cougarman that is what I did. I however opted to thread the ends of the rod and use nuts :D:D

Jon

Pins
 

Audiofn,

On my previous boat I had the threaded ends
aswell. Cosmetically they look nicer, to work
on them I'll never have them again.

They were loctited on , as they should be.
Couldn't get them to release even with heat.
Ended up galling one and couldn't get the
other one loose.

And to top that, that particular boat
had one of those wonderful built in
fiberglass swim platforms. So you could
only take the pin out going toward the drive.

So I cut the little guy off and went to
the simple but effective clip method.

Cougarman

After loosing a couple of the clips I opted to drill my shafts and use cotter pins. Not as pretty but stronger.