Too Stern Heavy?
11-26-2011, 02:09 PM
#21
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Location: Michigan
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yes flat is the ideal. strakes, chines, and transom 90 deg SHARP...this is way easier said than done!!! you will need somewhere where the boat can be lifted.
i'm sure there are plenty of places that you could do it in your area.
if u do end up fixing the bottom. b sure to add larger bunks to your trailer and extend them past the transom. a trailer can twist the hell out of a boat. trailers can do more damage to a hull than the inaccuracies of the original production.
prop rotation is easy...swap the props and run the sticks in reverse to go forward.
i'm sure there are plenty of places that you could do it in your area.
if u do end up fixing the bottom. b sure to add larger bunks to your trailer and extend them past the transom. a trailer can twist the hell out of a boat. trailers can do more damage to a hull than the inaccuracies of the original production.
prop rotation is easy...swap the props and run the sticks in reverse to go forward.
11-26-2011, 05:00 PM
#22
Gold Member
Gold Member
Where can I read about the hull blue printing process? Is there more too it than just making the running surface true / flat? Are the size and shape of the lifting strakes modified? Is there an ideal hull shape (convex vs. flat) on the running surface? I am interested in finding out more about this process.
You'll find that your Checkmate has beveled edges which make it much easier to pull from the mold. Simply squaring them up makes a huge difference in the way the boat handles. In fact when we squared off just the transom on a friend's 25' Checkmate many years ago, it just about cured his porpoise problem.
11-27-2011, 02:55 PM
#23
RIPSTA Racing Team
VIP Member
Lots of good ideas put out so far. Ballast in the nose is the cheapest to start with. I would look into different props, something with more bite and stern lift. I'm surprized no ones asked about your prop depth yet. If it's still chine walking maybe trying to space the lower down a little might help. You changed alot of variables when you added the boxes, I did the same thing last season and I'm still working out the bugs. Changed too much at once. Stellings boxes even in the neutral slot raise the props 7/8". I'm a cat hull but when I added the boxes I was at 3" above the bottom and the azz got real loose over 100. Spaced it down 1 1/2" and it bites hard now. We also moved the engines forward 2 ft. Just a touch too much. Boat flies flat but this season we'll take out 1/2" of spacer and add a few pounds of ballast in the tail and regear the lowers. With the changes so far we picked up 9mph with no power changes, just weight distribution/ballance and prop depth. With some more tweeking on the balance and prop depth plus the new gears hopefully we can squeeze out aonther 10 but the drives aren't holding up so SCX's are in the plan too.
Sorry for the run on, I'd start with ballast and prop depth tweeks. Good Luck!
Sorry for the run on, I'd start with ballast and prop depth tweeks. Good Luck!
