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Delco Voyager EST igniton
The Delco Voyager systems are sold as stand-alone systems as 'Excellent replacement kit for older "points" distributor system' for example here.
What I cannot understand is how this 'Excellent' system can use the same ignition module for all engines (4, 6 and 8 cylinder) with the Delco EST distributor. Does anyone have accurate info about advance curves for these systems? I have seen postings of anything between 11 and 22 degrees on V8's ... Also, as Marine Power is using them on some of their motors maybe someone has a manual from them ...? |
they have about 20 deg in the module, run without any ECM, they bring in most all of the advance right at start up...crusader and merc used them OEM and they do work well and are very simple...have them in my gibson w/crusader power..you can set your total timing at full advance and you are good to go..
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I have a couple of kits laying in my shop, so I know they are simple. Problem was first batch turned out to have some problems, loosing spark over 3k rpm. Got them replaced but have since then been hesitating to use them on any builds.
How early do they bring in the curve? Below idle speed? No problems with cruise speed knocking? What timing procedure do you use with the 'tool'? |
the marine units use a different module with a advance that works without running thru a ECM, a std auto one won't work right, tried that once, In my app I run about 26 deg total advance, which is about 10 initial..they run cleanly to 4k..but it's a big heavy boat and runs most of the time 3200-3500, some of the advance is in at idle, once timing is set and the timing wire flipped back to run position..no issues work great..
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To get initial 10 at idle, do you set it even closer to 0 deg at idle when locked?
If yes, then you will never use the full advance curve under operation ...? The lowest part of the ramp will only act as cranking assistance ... |
know idea what you are saying there, there is a timing plug on these dist, you disconnect it, flip it over to the time position, set initial at say 10 deg, shut off, flip connector to the run position, then runs the advance curve...
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RPMS/Advance
700/11 750/12.5 800/13 1000/15 1250/16 1500/16.5 1750/17.5 2000/18.5 2250/19.5 2500/20.5 2750/21.5 2800/22 Max advance! |
endeavour, I recognize those numbers from Moore's book.
Don't know about your experience, but my opinion is that the curve is way to flat to use as an *excellent replacement' system standard motors. A 5.7L Vortec produces best power at 29 deg full advance (tested in dyno), that would set me at 18 deg at idle. Can't see how Marine Power, Quest and others can use those systems successfully, or I must be missing something very basic. Do they really set them to produce full power? |
the numbers endeavour32 posted look close to what mercruiser uses, which they get from gm marine performance.
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Keith2500, I cannot really agree. That curve looks more like a TB IV V6 module on a V8. A TB IV V8-22 does have an advance of 22 so setting at max 30 gives 8 at idle. Can't see the similarity between Delco and TB ...
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This distributor would be good for something that has a bigger cam. On my engine I use the Crane Hi-6M boxes with 20 degrees of total advance. My ignition starts at 15 and is done at 35. On a bone stock engine you would not want this advance curve, on a modified engine you do! It all depends on what you have.
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I totally agree with you. A bigger cam or maybe even a blower.
I somewhat regret I got them for the reason I did; replacements for older points system. I'm replacing quite some long blocks for customers and advise them to go for Vortecs where applicable. Since Volvo for example was very late with electronic ignition I saw this opportunity for upgrade but it doesn't look that good anymore. Still I can't see how Marine Power, Barr and others actually get good results from using them with standard 350 Vortecs. I guess the best way to use those systems is to build a couple of wilder motors that will benefit from that flat curve. |
I disagree, why would you not want a decent amount of advance right off idle ?? most every engine now uses lots of advance quick to aid in power & fuel economy...they used these dist for years and still do in stock marine engines from V6-454...came OEM from crusader, merc and others....work great in my gibson that spends most all of it's life @ 3200-3500..
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ezstriper, to my knowledge Merc never used those systems as stand-alone.
They used them with the MEFI ecm's and the built in advance is only used up to 300 rpm before taken over by the ECM. Otoh, as you say Volvo, Crusader DO use them but problem has been to find actual data. However yesterday I finally found some advance curve data and recommended settings for VP motors, I will put it up here later today. |
merc used them in the early 90's without a ECM worked on one not to long ago..
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Any chance you remember what motor that was? I'm surprised 'cause I have never seen that combo and I have been working on Mercs for some time.
(I'm actually sitting with the parts catalog at hand and couldn't find it there either). Anyhow, here is the timing data from VP, hope it helps someone. |
when you lost spark above 3,000 rpm, what did it do, ours sounds like an old set of points breaking up, the carb huffs out unburned fuel vapors almost looks like a smoke ring, and it does it exactly at 3100 RPM, up to that point it runs great, and will run perfect when cold for the first 5 minutes.
this came on a new engine from Mercury, who could i get in touch with to get a new distributor, as i am thinking this should be under warranty. |
Delco EST Timing
I have found these Delco EST units to be simple and very trouble free. I time my Mercruiser 350 Mags at full advance with a digital advance timing light. Don't worry about using the timing jumper... Full advance on these things comes in at about 2600-3000 RPM. so simply set your light to 30 deg, Run the engine up to 3000 and set the timing mark at zero. That's it! You then don't have to worry that max advance is too high or not high enough. One other tip about EST... If you need shift interrupt You must not short the wire to ground. Instead the long wire on the timing jumper adapter must receive 12v through the interrupt switch. This requires rewiring the switch using a 12v supply. Don't forget to cut the timing jumper loop or timing will be locked and won't advance.
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advance chart, if any of this applies
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Old thread, but they are also cheap and easy to find. Junkyard, ebay, car-part.com...dist. and coil can be had for 20 bucks. Add a 50 buck new marine module-which is really a pass car module with a Lil more advance built into limp mode...
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double post.
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