![]() |
700 Hp fuel system????
What is a good start for a fuel system to support 700 HP carburated? This would be based off Gen VI blocks so seawater pump mounted mechanicals and / or electric pumps. Thanks
|
call teague custom marine,im sure they have what u need.
|
Thanks, Im sure they do, I was kind of looking for others input and suggestions of what they have used and have had good luck with, not what a salesman on the other end of the line wants to sell me. What is everyone having luck with realibly supporting 700ish Hp? Thanks.
|
Somebody makes a higher flowing fuel pump that mounts in place of your stock one. I would run that with an electric boost pump on a switch for insurance.
|
Subscribing
Hope Eddie will chime in on this, I enjoy listening and learning from him along with many others on here. |
this is what i was sold fom teague for my 600 inch 700 . airmotive electric marine , feeding a high output edelbrock marine block mounted pump . feeding the carb with two 3/8 fuel lines to the carb . never lost fuel pressure , , note the edlebrok high output was modified by teague to reduce some of the pressure , believe they took out one spring if i remember right
|
as far as electrics....ive seen aeromotive pumps work well in that range.....also Barry grant Enduro series pumps.
|
Originally Posted by Cobra100+
(Post 3634863)
Thanks, Im sure they do, I was kind of looking for others input and suggestions of what they have used and have had good luck with, not what a salesman on the other end of the line wants to sell me. What is everyone having luck with realibly supporting 700ish Hp? Thanks.
|
Originally Posted by pslonaker
(Post 3635239)
If you will call Teague and ask to speak to Eric...you wont get what you want to hear from him, but you will get what you need to hear from him. Eric will NOT jerk your chain or try to sell you a dead horse.
|
I remember someone on the board here retro-fitting a arm off a sea pump mounted pump, to a old mark iv style block mounted six valve pump with 1/2NPT inlet and outlets. I'll try to find that thread.
I think it sucks that the sea pump driven pumps dont accept a typical high performance pump. Theres lots of options for mechanical pumps that way. Adding a electric pump works just fine, but add's some rigging, regulators, wiring, etc. I think this here pump should work for you, and would be the simplest setup. http://www.hardin-marine.com/p-12460...6-engines.aspx Be sure to check the pickup size in the tank, and anti-siphon valve. -8 line from tank to carb minimum. Something to think about, the 800SC merc engine was 572CI, twin holley carbs, 420 blower, etc. Used a basic holley six valve mechanical pump, and used 3/8" single inverted flare hard line from the pump to feed both carbs. I actually have that setup in the garage, and its amazing to me that it worked, when looking at the small orifices in the inverted flare connections they used. But, it worked. The inlet fitting that fed the fuel log is really no larger than a Bic pen in diameter inside. |
Originally Posted by stevesxm
(Post 3635289)
can you imagine your high school english teacher reading what you just wrote ?
|
I've been running my 557 ci with a mechanical CV Products 2630. Been working just fine.
|
Thanks everyone, KID is the CV pump run off the seapump?
|
I don't think so. You're pretty limited with the seapump setup cause its specific to the application and not many aftermarket upgrades for it. I think teague or hardin makes one though. I would do that upgrade and just for insurance also run an electric fuel pump on a toggle switch, so you would have both. I have seen a lot of motors setup this way.
|
Get away from the sea pump mount as over time you are asking for failure as gas is known for leaking and trashing pump bearings and leaving you stranded. Trust me. Go with a Weldon pump # 1100-A. Electric pump that is one of the only marine rated pumps that actually draw fuel and don't need to be gravity fed. Call Weldon and get specs but thought it's good for 1100 horse. This pump has a straight vertical draw of around 20ft. I am running it and have no issues and they are great to deal with. Link this with a FST Flomax 300m filter/separator by Ramco Performance and a good regulator and have a bulletproof set-up.
|
4 Attachment(s)
Here is the typical setup that I use in your situation. I use both a mechanical and an electric. Either one can run the engine by itself. You have redundancy. When an electric pump fails, it usually gives no warning. On the other hand, the mechanicals will usually gradually get weaker with time. They can get weak enough to not be able to supply enough fuel and cause some big problems. Also, by running both, you don't have 2 huge, expensive pumps but 2 smaller cheaper pumps. You have the benefits of an electric pump to prime an empty system (new system, drained the bowls to change jets, etc) and the durability of an mechanical pump.
Since you don't have a provision on the block, you are limited to what you can use on the seapump. Hardin (KE) has a very nice pump section that mounts to your existing upper pump housing. http://www.cpperformance.com/p-12460...6-engines.aspx As for an electric, you have a few choices. In the past I would run a red Holley pump. I would cut about one wrap off of the internal bypass spring to brings it's pressure down to about 5 psi, from the stock 7 psi. Lately, I have been using an Aeromotive "street rod" pump. However, that pump does need a regulator. It is a VERY durable pump. You will have to regulate the fuel just out of the pump if you use the Aeromotive since it makes about 14 psi and the mechanicall only makes about 8 psi. If you use the Holley red, you will not need a regualtor at all. I make a SS manifold that attaches to the oulet of the mechanical pump. It has 3 fittings on it, plus a 1/8"port for a sending unit. The one on the bottom has the fuel line coming from the electric pump. The 2 on the top go to the carb....one to each bowl. I use a fuel filter head with 2 outlets. Line size depends on the power. In your case, I would run from the tank to the filter with a #10. Come out of the filter with a #8 to each of the pumps. Then a #6 to each bowl of the carb. from the SS manifold. As mentioned, be sure the pickup in the tank is sufficient. Don't just look at it and assume. Take it out and really look at it. You should have a 1/2" id pickup tube. I make my own SS pickup since I have never seen one for sale anywhere. Here are a few pics. The first one is the SS manifold. The others are my SS pickup vs a production style plastic pickup found in a ton of boats. Let me know if I can help you out. Good luck Eddie |
Originally Posted by Cobra100+
(Post 3635971)
Thanks everyone, KID is the CV pump run off the seapump?
btw... I believe CV says the pump puts out 10 psi at idle so I run a regulator before the fuel gets to my Dom 1050. Some (who know allot more than I do I'm sure) have suggested combining an elec with a mechanical. I went with the CV to keep things clean and simple.... less stuff to fail the better. I bought mine 4-5 years ago so if you consider the CV I'd call the manufacturer just to make sure the 2630 is the same as it was 4-5 years ago...manufacturers sometimes change things over time. |
1 Attachment(s)
Kidnova, those CV pumps are great. We use them on endurance race engines without any issues. We sometimes use a redundant system like Eddie described but instead of providing double the fuel the engine needs and heating it up or bypassing it back to the tank we trigger the electric pump off a pressure switch so it comes on anytime the pressure drops below 6psi and it triggers a light on the dash so you know it's happening. It's a simple setup and we also use a couple high flow one way check valves to keep everything safe. Teague sells a ton of different style fuel manifolds dirt cheap. Eddie that fitting looks like the right size but the ID of that stainless tube is quite a bit smaller then the stock plastic one? I also like the KE fuel pump body you mentioned, it's a really nice piece and an easy upgrade.
|
It is deceiving in the pics. The SS tubing has a 1/2" id and .039 wall thickness. The plastic tube has less than 3/8" id. The wall is pretty thick to make it strong, I guess. If you would see them from the bottom you would see that there is a considerable difference in id, with the SS being quite a bit larger.
I understand your point about running twice the needed pump, but it's not that bad. Either pump on it's on will run the engine enough to get home. However, they aren't large enough to support it at WOT. That's why I use 2 of them. You get the benefits of both without way over pumping it since they are both small pumps. I just like the redundancy since I have seen pumps fail and leave a customer with a several hour idle back to the house. Eddie |
10/4 on the redundancy. Most of the race boats that are still using MSD run at LEAST two boxes..
|
Yeah, I hear ya. THey need to run 4 or 5 of them to be safe.:lolhit:
|
| All times are GMT -5. The time now is 11:16 AM. |
Copyright © 2026 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.