Offshoreonly.com - Water Proof Butt Connectors

Offshoreonly.com (https://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/)

- General Q & A (https://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/general-q-20/)

- - Water Proof Butt Connectors (https://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/general-q/273760-water-proof-butt-connectors.html)

Quote:

Originally Posted by ROTAX454 (Post 3658676)

Regarding solder, fairly bold statement. Care to back it up with some facts?

common knowledge in marine rigging, don't solder anything because the wires need to flex to withstand the pounding they get in a boat.

Same reason you wouldn't use solid wire in place of stranded.

for a 20ga wire strip 3/16" from each wire, get an experienced tech with a quality iron to tin both wires quickly to avoid solder wicking up the wire, use a piece of shrink just large enough to fit over the joint and around 3 or 4 times the length of the joint (3/16"), once the connection is made correctly(by that experienced tech), shrink the tubing. always make connections in a straight run area and not in a curve or high stress area. I have been wiring aircraft for over three decades as well as several complete rewire jobs in about everything out there that moves and in every environment out there. I have never seen one of these connections fail.. If you are not experienced at soldering do not attempt this.

bobbo

Quote:

Originally Posted by ROTAX454 (Post 3656080)

Wire terminal crimping lesson #1:

Now for you bush leaguer's, if you think this is bullshet, well continue on. For Professional's, continue reading.

For this application, use a non-insulated butt splice of the proper dimension for your wire gauge. Apply a "light" crimp only to hold the wire core in place. Solder both ends of the terminal, carefully without applying too much heat. Insert a dual wall shrink tube piece over the butt splice with plenty of overlap on both ends. Heat to properly seal the dual wall tube. Now you have a professional wire circuit connection that will perform in even the most harsh environment.

Quote:

Originally Posted by ROTAX454 (Post 3658676)

Regarding solder, fairly bold statement. Care to back it up with some facts?

A lot of my electrical experience has come from a cruisers/sailers forum I participate on that has several marine qualified electrical technicians from around the world that share their knowledge. I trust there experience.
I could ask the same thing....Is your above post your opinion or does you have some facts by professionals to back up? I have yet to run across anyone who is in the marine electrical business that suggests soldering. Not to say there aren't any, just have yet to read of any.
Just look at your wiring on your boat, how many connectors are soldered from the factory?
Only solder joints I ever come across that I can recall on boats are usually aftermarket stereo installs. Seems backwards, as most own crimpers/connectors bought from Walmart, vs owning a solder gun.

The condition of a hot wire making the solder soft and pulling out, not the 1st time I've read that. Not uncommon for someone to keep blowing fuses, so they install a larger fuse. Now they have a fuse with a higher rating than the wire it is supposed to protect.

After rereading this thread I'm compelled to mention something far more important than the connections when considering a wiring repair/modification.

Routing of the wiring after the connections are made.. A properly built and routed wiring loom will support and protect each of the connections.

No matter how good that connection is, it will fail 100% of the time if it is not routed and tied into the loom in a way that supports and protects the connection.