Oil flow/temp issue I'm having. Need some help....
 

As some of you may have read, I got my boat in the water this past weekend and experienced an oil temp issue. Runs up to 260* rather quickly. My question is this:

Oil flow routing. Mine goes from the filter adaptor block, to the filter, to the cooler, back to the block. This is the way I ran it last year, the year before, the year before that....you get the picture. When we primed the motor with the drill prior to running it we did it in stages to make sure everything had oil in it before turning it over. When we had the line on to the filter (no filter on the bracket yet) oil came OUT what should be the IN on the adapter. Had to plug it with a thumb to get oil to come out the to-the-filter hose. Putting the filter on made it worse. Well, we figured maybe this was o.k. and ran the motor Saturday in the boat. Issues. I just picked up a different filter adapter that has the bypass valve threaded and plugged, which would force the oil to go to the filter rather than thru the bypass (this is a Mark 4 motor by the way). Is this what I need to do??? Should I run a filter with a bypass in it (Automotive type, I use Purolators)???? Do you think this was where I was getting my temp from?? Oil basically trying to go to the filter and the cooler at the same time instead of following the correct path??? I am reading my oil temp from the filter block (which is bolted to the transom, away from the motor).

Any insight would be appreciated.

Mike

Mike
Sounds like your getting your temp reading from the hot oil coming out of the motor.
I have my sender in the oil pan were I get the oil temp before it goes thru the motor.
I think thats more important then reading the hot oil temp since the oil will be cooled before it goes back thru the motor which is what you should be concerned about.
Later
Dan

Dan, I am getting the temp from the same place I have for years. I've never seen anything over 230-235* before Saturday. Somthing changed. I think th bypass valve gave up the ghost.

Mike.. If you ran this setup for many years, it sounds like you plumbed wrong this year...recheck your setup.. the hose that comes outta the adapter on your motor pointing towards the port side the boat should go into the "IN" on the filter.. it then should come outta the filter "out" then into the cooler then back to the adapter "in" that points to the bow of the boat. ( if your adapter is like mine)... Unless your making that much more power this year to make the oil hotter.. you about 80-100hp more right?

You read my post on the other tread .. but here we go again.. I had more oil pressure at idle then at WOT, and oil temp was hot.. Removed the filter adapter, welded the bypass hole up and ran a high burst filter. My oil pressure is alot better now... So my issue was that the oil was taking the route with less restriction (through the bypass) and not pushing it through the filter, cooler, oil stat. So by pluggin the bypass it forces the oil through the filter, cooler etc... I am using valvoline racing 40wt...

What were your oil pressures hot/cold?

pressure never went down. Stayed above 50 the whole time.

Then it sounds like your just making more HP and making the oil hotter. A big oil cooler might be needed.. I am running a 454 mag coller on my little SBC and I need a bigger cooler.. the origanal motor didn;t even have a cooler..


If you go to a bigger cooler.. I'll buy your old one if you want :D

Dude, I have a huge cooler. Aftermarket Eddie Marine one. I'ts oil cooling is 3" by 12". About twice the size of the one you are using.

hehe.... yup thats perfect for me.. I was gonna buy a 3" x 15" but you don't need yours.. YOU NEED A BIGGER ONE!!!!!! :D :D :D




you need my address LOL!!

:D

Waterfoul for what it is worth I think you are on the right track. I have ran with by-pass blocked for years with no trouble. Just make sure you get some HEAT in your oil before you run it hard. Everybody has there prefered way but this has worked for me. I think you have plenty of cooler. Just my .02