525 Seawater pump lube
 

Trying to drain and fill the seawater pump oil without removing the pump. I know there is a screw on the side, is that to drain and refill? If so, since the screw is located on the side, how do you get the oil in?

thanx

http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/3367682-post8.html

fixx
 

i like to remoove them and clean it out and make sure all the bearings look ans feel ok,then refill with merc gear lube.

+1...best way to insure all the old oil is out is to remove the whole thing & drain it. Plus, it gives you the chance to check the condition of the mechanical pump components and the bearings, like MrFixxall stated. Only extra work should be disconnecting fuel lines & serpentine belt off the pulley.

While my pumps were off, I drilled and tapped a extra screw at the bottom of the boss. I then added a magnetic drain plug screw so I can just pull that to drain the pumps and also check for metal/collect metal.

Also, when I pull the pumps off, I installed the Keith Eickert Fuel pump upgrades after rebuilding my seawater bumps and replacing my fuel pumps only to find out my engines were spaced to close together and my plumbing wouldn't work so I have (2) brand new KE pumps, (4) -8 AN 90 degree fittings and 6' of stainless braided AN hose for sale lol...

fixx
 

BTW if you remove the screw and nothing comes out its either out of oil or it turned to grease from the heat and has to be removed anyways..

I found it easier to line every up after all of it was removed. Just a FYI, use a star pattern when tightening the seapump, I didn't and blew a hole right through the intake when I started the motor up to look for leaks. Luckily I scored another before this holiday weekend.

Its nice to know that everyone has their own thoughts on how to do things. What I see most about inputs is they are never 100% correct.The chamber for the oil is to lubercate the fuel pump arm since it operated off an ecentric. There should never be metal in the chamber. If its out of oil, that means you have a bad seal. It could also mean the the fuel pump is leaking fuel into the chamber and is either leaking thru the front seal or worst yet it is leaking to the water pump housing wash any traces away. Now here are the real facts that know one really knows about. Ever since Mercury started mounting their pumps on the water pump housing the thought of ethonal fuel was never considered a problem. The fuel pump was never designed to be mounted sideways. The fuel would eat the rubber inside the pump and the leaks would start. Fuel pumps would never last more tha a year. They were having to replace them. Everytime I rebuilt the water pump, I also checked for fuel in the oil. Everytime I would replace the fuel pump. Mercury knew this was a problem.So installing drains in the bottom of the housinf just pull it off the engine and check for fuel. It does'nt take that much more work to do so. This service should be performed once a year.The bearings relie on the oil for lubercation. With fuel the will not last long. Theonly option that is left is to replace the fuel pumps with electric, replace the the mechanical with a cover plate and gasket and check once a year.Good luck with doing the right thing.

It seems that every one of these pumps seem to bleed gasoline into the pump oil. Since there seems to be now way to avoid this, I fill the reservoir with 2 stroke Klotz castor bean oil. (unsurpassed film strength and blends with gas)

So is this the norm for fuel pump to bleed gas into sea pump oil or is that signs of a bad fuel pump. Never had a problem with fuel/sea pump until now, blew oil out of sea pump with strong smell of gas.

+1
Take the time to pull the pump and add a drain to allow easier changing of gear oil in pump.

Again, is it the norm for fuel pump to bleed gas into sea pump oil or is it a sign of a bad fuel pump.

I don't think that is the intended design, but it seems to be norm. I replaced my sea pumps about a month ago and all three had gas in the oil.

Yes it's normal, happens to everyone. It's just a chitty design. On my old boat I put new fuel pumps on and after one summer, both had gas mixed in the oil. Just change it at least once a year and you will be fine.

Ok thanks.
Mine puked the oil out the other day, the pump feels ok but it looks like the front seal popped out of housing. Seems odd the seal would come out. I need to tear it apart for a closer look.

It's my feeling that some leakage is inherent to the design and the best solution is being able to change the gear oil regularly/easily which is why I added the drains to the sea pump housing.

When changing oil in sea water pumps what is everyone using for oil?

Mercury High Performance gear lube. that is what the maintenance manual calls for.

Though I suspect engine oil would work just as well, that's what lubes the pump foot when it's attached to the engine block.

I use straight 2 stroke oil as it's made to be diluted with gas. Seems to work great.

To get the full benifit of the lubricating value of the two cycle oil, you must evaporte all the fuel.

Oil and gas is a lousy lubricant. It is best to chage the oil, probably more than once a year.

Ken

I find it easier to just remove the fuel pump from the sea water pump and use my Jabsco oil sucker to remove the old oil and replace with Amsoil Extreme gear that I use in the drive. The Amsoil seems to handle the dillution well. As a matter of fact my level never changes and I don't have any leaks, so I am assuming the fuel leakage is only enough to add an odor to the oil as the viscosity doesn't seem to be altered either. It may be much ado about nothing at least for me.

I just pulled my sea pumps and changed this oil as all have discussed. With it on the garage floor I filled the reservoir with a little medical 6cc syringe. I filled it to the "bottom" of the threads while looking from above. Now a nagging fear just popped into my head... Is there a possibility of putting too much oil in the reservoir?? I didn't measure, I just "filled it up" while the pump reservoir was lying horizontal on the floor as opposed to vertical when it is mounted on the motor. Thanks for any replies.

You're good to go. Hell once you had them out you should have added a drain plug and saved time each year. Either way you're on the right track...change it every season.