Well, I got the printout of the errors this morning.

Block PSI Circuit Low
Guardian
Overspeed
Block PSI Low
Neutral Overspeed

Also got PITOT and Fuel warnings but those are SmartStation warnings, and I don't have Smartstation. So they will always show up.

When we changed the water pump last week, the impeller was intact, but the casing was all scarred up. So I wouldn't think there is something in there. However, my other dealer this winter DID change the impeller, and I suppose it's possible some of that could be still in there, although I would think they checked for that.

What a cluster. About ready to give this boat away.

I am going to instruct my tech guy to check the hose going from the water pump to the Power Steering Cooler. Could be some weeds or something plugging that up. I'm also going to have them check the PSI sensor, which i believe is on the power steering cooler as well.

I know we don't have any impeller parts floating around in there. Impeller was intact last winter when we replaced that, and was intact this last time when we replaced the entire pump.

Will keep you posted. Any further thoughts would be appreciated.

Have you checked the T-fitting for the fresh water flush? If it has "internals" like a checkball/spring, etc., just rip the internals out. You don't need them.

Your test pool running does not bring up the positive pressure that the force of driving the boat through the water does. Hence, you don't produce as much water pressure when in the test pool. If it were me, I would dig into the air actuators as if one or both are bad, you would spray water out of the bottom of them when when on plane. I've had to replace a couple of mine over the years. They have a rebuild kit for them.

You also could have a split line somewhere. Same description as above; not enough positive pressure to leak at standstill, but would with forward momentum in the water.

A friend had his transom assemblies all corroded up and this was restricting his water flow. If the boat had previous salt water use and was not flushed, this could be an issue.

I've also seen issues where marine grown happens inside the SW side of a cooling system.

Have you taken off the heat exchanger and had that checked out? Perhaps a blockage there?
How is the visual water flow out of the exhaust tips? Normal?

If you replace just the impellor on this type Merc raw water pump and the end plates are badly grooved, the new impellor will not seal proeprly and make good water flow and pressure. Impellors need to seal on the vanes and on the end plates, grooving on these end plates breaks the impellor seal and keeps the pump- from pumping properly.
You are probably still overheating from this condition. My recommendation is to replace the pump itself and if you have the time, buy the new stainless pump from CP/Hardin Marine, much better pump that won't groove and its almost half the price of the lousey Merc stock pump.

Best Regards,
Ray @ Raylar

Ray,

We changed the entire water pump this time.

One other note, we did buy a Dana Marine Exhaust system from you for this boat last year. I wonder if the air actuators sydwayz talks about are Dana products now. I'm not a technical expert, so I don't know. But Sydwayz thoughts on this seem to make sense.

Rick

[QUOTE=tomahdonzi;3725968]Well, I got the printout of the errors this morning.

Block PSI Circuit Low
Guardian
Overspeed
Block PSI Low
Neutral Overspeed

Have the shop check the neutral saftey switch as that is what will cause " neutral overspeed" and that is a 3500 rpm alarm and will put the engine into guardian. Its possible that your first problem is fixed and while doing it the switch got broke. They are nort hard to break........ ask me how I know.

Expensive Date,

I am going to order the Neutral Safety Switch, just in case that's the problem. I've heard conflicting things on this. Some say when it goes bad, you can't start the boat, others say it can be bad and put into guardian at rpm. I will go with your thoughts and at least have it on hand in case that's the issue. It's a cheap part. Not sure how your's broke. My switch is on the controls (Livorsi Standard Mechanical controls). Is your's in the engine bay?

The neutral safety switch should be on the shift linkage on top of the motor, if you place it in gear it should depress the button. Make sure its adjusted correctly, this is a easy fix if that's the problem.

I know that my neutral safety switch is on the Livorsi controls at the helm.

why don't you just jumper the saftey switch???