I need engine and drive help
 

Okay I have been looking like a monkey f**king a football out here for days now with no luck
I have both engines all in, wired up, carbs and fuel lines ect all installed and ready to go.
NOW first problem, My Starboard drive is stuck in reverse.
I have to see if the shift cable pushed the shift pin and clevis into the drive cause I dont know what else could be wrong, when im trying to turn that engine over to see if it will start (which it wont)
It is snapping the prop in reverse.
Now engine distributor, I can manually turn engine to TDC #1
Align the distributor to point to #1 plug wire
18436572 is my firing order.
I cant get it to turn over, she is chokin, coughing and what not but no go go
now on the Port engine I cant get it to start worth a damn. I emptied out the fuel/water separator and now I cant draw any fuel into the seperator and thus not pushing it to carb.
I was going to go out and get a new fuel pump to see if that was the problem i was having with that or not.
Im really getting pissed and discouraged cause this thing has been one nightmare after another.
Im so close I can taste it but she just wont fire.
I have been pulling plugs ect left and right and none are fouled out.
Shooting flames out the tailpipes, yes, out the carb yes which indicates that my timing is major hosed up.
Anyone with any ideas on this?
I have to get this freakin thing running or im going to scream
thanks
Jason

Sounds like your cable pushed in the latch on the drive.

Sounds like your engine is 180 dagrees out of phase. Pull #1 plug and turn the engine over by hand untill it pushes air out. keep turning untill it hits 10 degrees before top dead center. Then see if the rotor on the distributer is pointed at #1 plug wire. Align up the stater points.

i cant help you much on the drive Q but i agree take the #1 plug out and feel for the compression to push your finger off the hole.timing mark should be close to TDC then put it up close to TDC and make sure the distib is pointing towards #1. not sure how many goodies you have laying around but I took a 5 gallon gas can put a fitting in the side of it and a holley red pump on it. when i have problems or need to put gas in something not easy to pour into i use this. point being if you have enuff goodies laying around this would eliminate the fuel sysytem(possibly bad gas) on the boat for now! hang in there dude its just testing you, i have faith you are gonna win this one!!!!

Hey Tink
Okay I stuck a 1/4 inch extension in the #1 sp hole
felt the piston come up and I saw no timing mark on the balancer so I figured I was on the upside of the compression stroke and the rotor on the dist was 180 out
which is fine that does not bother me
I pulled all the plug wires and ran them all again to make SURE i was not wrong
When the #1 is at TDC I looked at the hash mark on the balancer and it was at 8* on the timing tab on the timing chain cover.
Is that right?
Or did engine dude put some advance on the cam when he slipped it in there?
So what im gathering from what you said is put it at 0* on the timing tab, pull the cap, notch where the rotor is (on #1) and put the cap back on lining up #1 on the cap to the notch?
If I can get this thing to fire then I can set it to 8* advance at about 800-850 idle speed?
(cam is so big it cant idle at 550-600)

Okay now for other engine
Your saying if I prime it, put fuel in the fuel seperator, it should purge the air out of the system and I may not need a new fuel pump MXZ?
I can pour a small amt of gas down there im sure with no problem, pop on the flame arresor and see what it does.
Ill try that but for 30-40 bucks a fuel pump is the last of my concerns, ill buy a new one, hell most of this boat is now new, not much left to replace.
this SUCKS and I swear im not going to be beaten by some POS baja

The drive, hell I need a hand to hold it up while I try to pry that clevis and shaft forward. it is in there about an inch or so. I tried taking the shifter and pulling it all the way back so the cable would grab it but that is not working
I have to pull it out and somehow get it to move forward without breaking anything
man if it is not one thing it is something else
Jason

Piston comes up up twice per power stroke, once is compression, once is exhaust. Do as mxz says, turn with your finger on the #1 plug hole and feel the compression stroke. This is the only way unless you want to pull your valve covers and watch the valves. Both valves will be closed on the compression stroke.

Okay
I dumped a little bit of fuel down the carb and engine coughed and ran for about 3 seconds and died
did that about 7-8 times and each time she caught and ran and died
Pulled the fuel line and nadda
Bone dry
So im off to find the wizard, the wonderful wizard of pumps
Going to poop boys and get a fuel pump and gasket
The second engine I have not touched but Marc, Okay now I understand exactly what your saying.
I know that this is 4 strokes, 2 up and 2 down but did not think about the obvious that exhaust valve would be open on one stroke, Okay cool
At least if I can get the one running and ready and broken in and oil changed first I would feel like im getting somewhere

I love this board!!!
Sort of sucks that im land lubbing it right now and everyone else is off and out on the water GRRRRRRR
Soon brothers soon
Thanks for the help, Ill be back soon to leave another update
thanks again
jason

Sold my 350 Mag to a buddy last year after the rest of the boat was totaled in a Rack Storage fire. He had a problem of not getting fuel to the carb. Thought it was the pump and replaced that. Happened to be a small piece of rubber stuck in the fuel line from the tank to the pump (he doesn't know how it got there).

Scott

Well my friends now comes the nightmare as per usual
I did get one engine running.
FINALLY she turned over after dumping some fuel down the carb and blowing all the fuel lines, fuel pump and changing the fuel filter/seperators from engine #1 to engine #2
she did fire up and was running for about 10 minutes or so and thermostat seemed like it opened and everything was fine
I then pushed the throttle up to about 2000 rpm's
NOW
The one engine that runs has developed a bang
just like the old motor
I dont know what it is just yet
I dont feel like pulling the whole thing apart but looks like that is what im going to have to do.
I only had it at 2000 rpm's after it ran for about 10 minutes at idle, then pushed it up a touch to 2000
then now it started banging away.
I quick dropped it back down to idle and still banging away.
Hard to tell if it is metal to metal contact or what
Im afraid to pull the flame arrestor off for I dont need 10 foot flames shooting out the carb but it is not poofing smoke out of the arrestor so I dont think that is it.
I hope it is not that oil pan POS
The first oil pan somehow broke the windage thing in there (tray to keep oil down in the sump)
if the crank is hitting that again (enging builder had welded it back down with some piece of metal.)
or a valve broke or spring or soemthing
not sure yet Ill have to find out.
Goingt to start with the obvious first and check to see if the timing is right or if the distributor moved on me after I set the timing and tightened it down.
But now it is doing it at idle and at 800 RPM's it is set to 8* before TDC (so the timing tab says)
back to square one
BUT it still runs even though it is making noise
any suggestions?
Jason

Man o man, what have you got there? Flames out both ends? What is it? a 3/4 inch stroker motor? How could you break a windage tray? Do you have fire insurance?
Sorry it just sounds unbelievable:D :confused:

What do you have for oil pressure ? Sounds like you may have spun another bearing. Can you have your engine builder listen to it ?