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Also On an additional note there is no change in power or rpm with the throttle 3/4 to full
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Originally Posted by Martin718
(Post 3737488)
As far as the numbers with the 23P prop it was trimmed all the way up to get it to rev to 4200, I use my power trim gauge a lot and with the 20 I have to leave it pretty low in the water to keep it from porpoising but with the 23 it was shooting a pretty good roost and trimmed all the way up and still no porpose but it would only get to 4200 rpm and it BARELY got on plain
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Originally Posted by jmeng
(Post 3737697)
For one thing, you're way over trimming. Slowly tap up on the trim until you stop getting bow lift. Trimming all the way up running WFO is inefficient and tough on the components.
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Often the simplest explanation is the correct one. I think many
of you guys are over thinking his "speed problem". Let's review shall we? First sentence:
Originally Posted by Martin718
(Post 3736414)
I have a 1999 baja outlaw 25' with a 454 mag MPI.
more water than a pregnant housewife. Will a 13 year old 454 Mag MPI put out 385 HP? No. How much less? 10, 20, 30 percent? Smitty what do you think? Third and forth sentence:
Originally Posted by Martin718
...20 pitch prop on it and it comes out of water decent with trim tabs down but tops out at 56-58mph on gps with tabs up and trimmed up good with 5 people and a half a tank of fuel... The rpm is 4600...
Ponys" but do you think Martin had four 100lb. super models sharing a bottle of cabernet sauvignon during his prop testing sessions? :lolhit: I would hazard to guess that he had some buddies pushing 200 lbs. each and a large cooler full of beer. Add to that a half tank of fuel, some extraneous crap in the cuddy, and whatever is stored in the engine compartment and we are looking at a weight of what? 6000 lbs? Your speed and RPM's are just fine for the age and load of your boat. Want to go faster? Shed some weight. Want to find your max speed? Get rid of the no name prop, do your testing with a light load, use a digital tachometer and your GPS and be analytical in your testing procedures. Mirage and Mirage Plus props are known entities for your hull. They are also very common. Borrow a few different ones and go test. Also make sure any prop you test is in excellent shape. Trying to find your best RPM's and speed with a chewed up prop is rather silly. When you find that your max speed is in the 60's like others have suggested then decide if you want a blower or a bigger engine. Until then just have fun. If you always go boating with a full crew and load, then prop the boat accordingly. You will never approach an Outlaw 25's max speed under those conditions. |
Originally Posted by 4bus
(Post 3736889)
IMO- buy a boat that was engineered to go the speed that you want. Want a 80 mph boat, buy a stock one and leave it that way :)
A blue merc 500hp will get you a reliable 68-70mph on that hull Ding, ding, ding....... My boat runs close to 80 w/ 525HP and it is nearly 32' LOA. There are plenty of faster hulls out there too. Enjoy the boat for a while, sell it, and if you still want to go fast do your homework on hulls. Oh, and BTW, I recently blew my drive with just 525HP. Our boats probably weigh about the same. |
Good points from last two comments I appreciate the input and like he stated it had just one supermodel (wifey) ;) but it also had 3 grown men and a pretty stout stereo system in it. I wasn't really concerned that it wasn't running what it should just wanted to see if it was correct.
I've found a pro charger M3 I am lookin at and was curious if it would be worth putting on and running at 3lbs for this season till I can have time to run a new fuel system and pump it to 5 psi.... So basically what I am asking is A.) is there going to be any gain on top at 3psi and B.) will the stock fuel system which is ALL BRAND NEW support the charger at 3Psi with out any fuel system change? |
I can not speak about the Baja but when I got a 2001 Nordic Rage with a 454 MPI motor it did not run correctly in my mind. After a compression and full leakdown test we found out why. The compression and leakdown were terrible although it actually ran and idled ok. There was a problem with the factory valvetrain. We installed the Tyler Crockett kit which fixed the problem and got us good power, A valve job and some adjustable rocker arms would have fixed the problem much more reasonably but I was after more power as most of us are. I would definatly look into why you have poor performance and rule out any issues before you start messing with props, prochargers.
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Well after research the M3 can't be slowed down to use a 3lb pulley so it's either 5 or 7psi and plumb a fuel system
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Originally Posted by Griff
(Post 3737069)
Why not just buy a 40k boat that is worth 40k instead of spending 15k on 25k boat that will still be worth 25k when you're done.
Allthough buying the upgrade this route would be a better option than spending $7-10k on the procharger. Then you could keep the stock setup and put it back in when you sell the boat. Like Articfriends stated, the slip numbers don't compute. |
So how do they compute with the 23 prop
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