pro systems carb
 

I emailed pro systems on reworking my 1050 dominator, it seems to have a fuel stumble at 3000 rpm and is not really liking to idle they recomend me to go to a 3 circuit. which i thought did not work on marine use. here is there email:
Hi Trevor,

The little 1050 will turn the main booster on too fast and cause a rich cruise, so sell that as a working unit and lets build a bigger one.

A bigger carb will drive nicer for that 572 and the HP main body drives better and makes more poewr than than the old style body too.

In four barrel carburetors, our PRO SERIES XC Gasoline Dominator is a great way to go for your Marine combination.

This XC version for your application is priced at only $1020.00 plus shipping (typically $24.00 to your area)

Your version will have our High Shear 51 Series Red CNC Billet boosters, it'll have our adjustable air bleed configuration, non-stick gaskets, 3 circuit Black Billet metering blocks, drag float, jet extensions (to offset boat tilt), hi-flow needle and seats, big sight glass bowls and a complete wet-flow portfolio (for easy jet selection).

It's very driveable with excellent manners at cruise and won't lean you out at wide open throttle, so don't worry about the carb, I'll have my end done.

It also comes with access to our weekend techline for tuning assistance after the sale.

It'll flow in the 1160 to 1200 REAL cfm range (I'll know more when I'm flowing it for the application) and typically makes 15-20 more h.p. than an "out of the box" design.

We don't have part numbers and each one is built just for your program. So I just need about 4 days to get one built.

Here is a pic and some more info on the carb I am talking about: http://www.prosys12.macwebsitebuilde...seriesdom.html

If this works for you, just call or E me with a Credit Card # when you're ready.

Glad to be your builder Trevor.


Thanks

Patrick James


727-490-5717

I have one of their 950's and not real impressed.

If your not impressed call pat and tell him the issue. In the drag racing world every car I tuned, that had a pro systems carb was damn near spot on, and if something was wrong pat told the customer right over the phone what to do to fix it. Always excellent support.

Carb
 

I ran one of ProSystem 3 circuit 1050 on my N/A 540 had no issue with it. Started easly idle good no stumbles had to lean it down but thats it. Then ProSystem built a 3 circuit 1250 cfm for a 540 blower motor that just suck. After several attempt to make it work I sent it off to CSU carburetor Kevin rework it and WOW work first time out holding A/F thru the RPM range. I would say ProSytem is good on N/A motors but falls behind on blower motor. ProSyetem builds a pretty carburetor for the price.

Many including me will tell you that you don't want a use a 3-circuit carb in a marine application....always rich. Holley now sells a 1150 CFM 2-circuit Dominator that is USCG approved. I also had ProSystems rework a set of 1050's....after a second attempt by ProSystems, we sold them...way rich in the midrange. ProSystems has a good reputation in drag racing...not so much in marine.

Take that 1000 dollars, get some 02 bungs welded into your tailpipes, and buy a wideband meter. Grab a couple different size power valves, a 12 pack of beer, and spend a day tuning yourself. Believe me, you will be happier, and so will your 572.

Add $400 in fuel to that but, at least your on the water with that money and learning!

:whistle:Still beats spending 1000 bucks on a new carb, then have to buy the AFR meter, have 02 bungs installed, a CASE of beer, and 800 bucks in gas to dial it in twice.

where do you recomend getting an afr from?
I been searching theres alot of options. my friend will tig in the 02 bungs on my risers im running old gills do i want them closer to the elbow or to the tail end?

fixx
 

slightly above the bend,about 3'' above the water dump,it needs to be on a angle..have your buddy make a hole bugger then the bung,press the inner and outter pipe together and weld them together.then have him slide the o2 bung in the hole and weld the bung in place.