Gen V 502 MAG EFI head removal & rebuild . Any tips, tricks, hints, ect.
#22
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Well good news on the block. I just checked straightness of the block, and it is straight! WHOO!! It is perfect between the cylinders, front to back, top to bottom. .001" feeler gauge was a no go every where I put it. I will just do a lapping to make sure the Ra is below 60 for MLS gaskets!
Another question. When I used MLS head gasket on my Supra (I6 3.0L) I have to do a re-torque after 5 heat cycles. Dose the same have to be done on the 1075's?
Another question. When I used MLS head gasket on my Supra (I6 3.0L) I have to do a re-torque after 5 heat cycles. Dose the same have to be done on the 1075's?
#23
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fixx
Well good news on the block. I just checked straightness of the block, and it is straight! WHOO!! It is perfect between the cylinders, front to back, top to bottom. .001" feeler gauge was a no go every where I put it. I will just do a lapping to make sure the Ra is below 60 for MLS gaskets!
Another question. When I used MLS head gasket on my Supra (I6 3.0L) I have to do a re-torque after 5 heat cycles. Dose the same have to be done on the 1075's?
Another question. When I used MLS head gasket on my Supra (I6 3.0L) I have to do a re-torque after 5 heat cycles. Dose the same have to be done on the 1075's?
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#27
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1075 is multi-layer steel gasket. No O-ring.
#28
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I started reasearching the 1075. Marine, Stainless Steel, no orings, MLS, stopper seal, Ra 60 or better, head/block has a max of .002" out of flatness over entire surface with no major "dopps or groves".
Thank you for the clarification!!
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ALL multi-layer steel head gaskets are stainless steel.