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Keith, I completely understand what your asking/saying-for the guys reading this and thinking it's ok because tie-bar is helping, each ram has 2 hoses, a push and a pull, I have twin rams on my boat (single engine) and i have bled all 4 hoses (IF I remember correctly) the stbd ram pushing isn't the only thing making the port retract. Some singles only have one ram, it pushes and pulls 1 drive, on thisboat each drive should act just like a single ram , single engine boat IF the tie bar isn't there. Now, the tie bar definately helps balance things out and tie things together. Now one answer that was posted that sounds plausible is the fact they are all tee'd together with one manifold and the ram extending would have to have resistance or be fully extended before the opposite starts retracting, sounds believable, Smitty
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Originally Posted by US1 Fountain
(Post 3811050)
I'm wondering if the boats running that loose a tie bar, if the drag on the drives is enough to keep them in check. Kinda like towing a car with a towbar where the front wheels turn and straighten out by themselves?
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Originally Posted by articfriends
(Post 3811053)
Keith, I completely understand what your asking/saying-for the guys reading this and thinking it's ok because tie-bar is helping, each ram has 2 hoses, a push and a pull, I have twin rams on my boat (single engine) and i have bled all 4 hoses (IF I remember correctly) the stbd ram pushing isn't the only thing making the port retract. Some singles only have one ram, it pushes and pulls 1 drive, on thisboat each drive should act just like a single ram , single engine boat IF the tie bar isn't there. Now, the tie bar definately helps balance things out and tie things together. Now one answer that was posted that sounds plausible is the fact they are all tee'd together with one manifold and the ram extending would have to have resistance or be fully extended before the opposite starts retracting, sounds believable, Smitty
Also, you came up with a great way to explain it. People think they will work like a single on each side. But it definitely doesnt. Can I re-plumb it a different way so each piston is isolated somehow? |
You'd be trying to steer each drive seperately. No way you'd keep them both in sync perfectly. Or at least using a tie bar I don't see it possible without going to a huge undertaking/expense. I'd think you'd be creating more problems trying to reinvent the wheel for that almost non likely chance of a tiebar falling off.
Just install a second tiebar. Problem solved. :) I take it you are running full hyd steering, no inner bar |
Originally Posted by US1 Fountain
(Post 3811273)
You'd be trying to steer each drive seperately. No way you'd keep them both in sync perfectly. Or at least using a tie bar I don't see it possible without going to a huge undertaking/expense. I'd think you'd be creating more problems trying to reinvent the wheel for that almost non likely chance of a tiebar falling off.
Just install a second tiebar. Problem solved. :) I take it you are running full hyd steering, no inner bar Yes, full hydraulic. Two tie bars wont help if a gimble breaks. Thats what I am trying to avoid. |
Originally Posted by US1 Fountain
(Post 3810233)
That's because the 'push' side has more PSI surface area than the pull side. (cyl rod), so the push side will move 1st. If you kept turning the wheel, as soon as the push side was extended the full amount, then the other drive would move. it's kind of a path of least resistance thing, with the area of the cyl rod creating a slight amount of resistance. In a round about way.
I'd think with the race boats running, the high rpm is what allows this equalization happen at a much faster rate. Nature of the beast with the rams tee'd together |
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