![]() |
there is a thread about it,lots of information,if you do a search you should be able to find it.
|
I had problems in 2002 with a set of the E-top style on a 500 EFI ... $hitty welds. When I posted that, a guy (owner at the time?) from CMI told me I was full of $hit. I think the post is still on here if you search. I posted photos of the leaks and it went silent - nothing as bad as those posted by PremierPower (WOW!!). I would recommend pressure testing anything with the letters CMI in it, based on my experience. Had a couple others that leaked at the header/tailpipe flange (header side of the joint) due to poor welds. I'm glad I don't have any, anymore.
|
Originally Posted by bob_t
(Post 3834787)
I had problems in 2002 with a set of E-tops on a 500 EFI ... $hitty welds. When I posted that, a guy (owner at the time?) from CMI told me I was full of $hit. I think the post is still on here if you search. I posted photos of the leaks and it went silent - nothing as bad as those posted by PremierPower (WOW!!). I would recommend pressure testing anything with the letters CMI in it, based on my experience. Had a couple others that leaked at the header/tailpipe flange (header side of the joint) due to poor welds. I'm glad I don't have any, anymore.
|
1 Attachment(s)
Those were on our Formula (600s). All 4 were equally bad. Picture shows how bad it left the engines. 4/6 headers on the Donzi were that bad and 2 not quite as bad. But enough to ruin all 5 engines. Just bought all new Gen X. They had better last. Def going to be draining headers after flush. One guy told us to dry fire for 5-10 sec to make sure that if any water did get into engine it gets blown out but I worry about burning up water pump impellers.
|
Originally Posted by PremierPOWER
(Post 3834801)
Those were on our Formula (600s). All 4 were equally bad. Picture shows how bad it left the engines. 4/6 headers on the Donzi were that bad and 2 not quite as bad. But enough to ruin all 5 engines. Just bought all new Gen X. They had better last. Def going to be draining headers after flush. One guy told us to dry fire for 5-10 sec to make sure that if any water did get into engine it gets blown out but I worry about burning up water pump impellers.
|
Originally Posted by the deep
(Post 3834808)
Can you say Class Action ? That pic makes me sick in the stomach . Don't you think it's time somebody takes action ? :angry-smiley-038: Or we could just boycott their product which is already being done to an extent .
|
Originally Posted by bob_t
(Post 3834817)
I think that was already discussed (tried ??) a couple of years ago ... there was quite a long thread about that and the OSO member who was an attorney was trying to get names and details, but, if I remember correctly ( I could be wrong on this), the thread got shut down for inappropriate use of this website or not being a paid advertiser, or something like that. Not sure what the outcome ever was.
|
Premier, one thing you might consider doing would be install full time drains to the distribution tubes - drain the water overboard through bulkhead fittings or if you have Bravos and the engines are out, you could put the drains through the exhaust block-off plate. This mod drops water pressure a bit and leaves your headers dry while the engine is not running - good for the engine (no drain back even with small cracks) and good for mitigating header corrosion. I have one set of Merc e-tops by CMI with the steel distribution tubes that is 11 years old, no issues yet. I do pressure check every year with air. 15 psi for 30 minutes; must have no drop in pressure.
|
Originally Posted by the deep
(Post 3834808)
Can you say Class Action ? That pic makes me sick in the stomach . Don't you think it's time somebody takes action ? :angry-smiley-038: Or we could just boycott their product which is already being done to an extent .
|
Originally Posted by PremierPOWER
(Post 3834825)
What good substitutes are there? I love the fact that stainless marine has a 5 year warranty but they don't have the look that belongs with these engines IMO. Are there any other GOOD tubular styles similar to CMI that have had proven reliability?
|
| All times are GMT -5. The time now is 07:54 AM. |
Copyright © 2026 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.