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Has anybody ever had Red Loctite fail?
Has anybody have a bolt back out that has red loctite on it?
or even the Blue? Is there anything better than the standard red? Rob:D |
only under high heat conditions
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Originally Posted by Strip Poker 388
(Post 3870461)
Has anybody have a bolt back out that has red loctite on it?
or even the Blue? Is there anything better than the standard red? Rob:D what " toolsinbox" says about heat is, for sure . correct but locktite isn't what keeps the bolt tight or in place. the preload on the fastner does. locktite is the " suspenders" in a " belts and suspenders" approach. if you have harware that repeatedly loosens up or falls out its either the wrong hardware for the application or the right hardware improperly preloaded or you have components that are moving relative to each other that the clamp load is unable to control. |
Originally Posted by stevesxm
(Post 3870492)
what " toolsinbox" says about heat is, for sure . correct but locktite isn't what keeps the bolt tight or in place. the preload on the fastner does. locktite is the " suspenders" in a " belts and suspenders" approach. if you have harware that repeatedly loosens up or falls out its either the wrong hardware for the application or the right hardware improperly preloaded or you have components that are moving relative to each other that the clamp load is unable to control.
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monkey spit,,,has a third product
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proper prep helps too.... how you gonna glue something oily/greasey together??
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Originally Posted by phragle
(Post 3870547)
proper prep helps too.... how you gonna glue something oily/greasey together??
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Might also try Green Loctite
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If it has fuel running thru it and oil,so heat would not be a factor, I know about bolt stretch,but if red loctite was used how could a bolt back out?
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red loctite
You have to remember loctite has a shelf life if it is old it does not work.Been there done that.JOHN SR
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Originally Posted by Strip Poker 388
(Post 3870781)
If it has fuel running thru it and oil,so heat would not be a factor,
From a mercruiser service manual! Fuel Supply Connections, Apply #592 Loctite Pipe Sealant with Teflon to threads of brass fitting or plug. DO NOT USE TEFLON TAPE. • Thread brass fitting or plug into fuel pump or fuel filter base until finger tight. • Tighten fitting or plug an additional 1-3/4 to 2-1/4 turns using a wrench. DO NOT OVER-TIGHTEN. • Install fuel line. To prevent over-tightening, hold brass fitting with suitable wrench and tighten fuel line connectors securely. • Check for fuel leaks. |
Typically lock tite should only be used when a fastener cannot be torqued to its elastic state. Such as a gr 5 bolt going in to aluminum.
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Originally Posted by blue thunder
(Post 3870895)
Typically lock tite should only be used when a fastener cannot be torqued to its elastic state. Such as a gr 5 bolt going in to aluminum.
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Originally Posted by phragle
(Post 3870913)
Maybe in theroy, but i in reality.... vibration and shock. I raced in the desert for years. If red loctite wasnt used liberally, you left parts all over the desert regardless of what you torqued it to....... I love the smell of loctite in the morning, it smells like.........VICTORY!
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Originally Posted by blue thunder
(Post 3870972)
Was it used on the head bolts and main bolts too? But I do get your point, a lot of movement with non machined surfaces and things might loosen up.
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fixx
Originally Posted by Strip Poker 388
(Post 3870781)
If it has fuel running thru it and oil,so heat would not be a factor, I know about bolt stretch,but if red loctite was used how could a bolt back out?
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Originally Posted by blue thunder
(Post 3870895)
Typically lock tite should only be used when a fastener cannot be torqued to its elastic state. Such as a gr 5 bolt going in to aluminum.
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if you do some research,you will find that the blue is used in most automotive applications[and marine]the red is some strong chit and can cause smaller bolts to break upon removal unless heat is applied.
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Ive been talking to loctite and trying to get some idears why the bolts backed, Im not a 100% sure it was red,but it looks like some kind of locker was used,this was the last reply from
(Loctite industrial brands division) Henkel Adhesives Things to consider: 1. Was product applied properly for Blind Hole applications? 2. Inactive surface and the product used did not cure up completely? 3. Any possibility that our material was not applied? When are products are properly torqued and threadlocker is applied they should not back out. Thanks 'Rob |
I have used loctite clones and found they do NOT work anywhere near as good as the real thing...any chance it wasnt real loctite??
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I dont know what they used,I assume it was red,blue? but steel allen head bolts bolting a shaft to aluminum plate ,it looks to be 3/8,but its metric.
Wonder what temp will make red locktite fail? |
You are not hard on your equipment. What did you have a bolt back out on?
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another thing about loctite, if used repeatedly... part of the prep includes chasing the threads, loctite builds up wit repeated use clogging the threads and making the fastener act as if its stripped greatly reducing clamping force.
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Originally Posted by Fenderjack
(Post 3870787)
You have to remember loctite has a shelf life if it is old it does not work.Been there done that.JOHN SR
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When installing the fastener Loctite is also a lubricant so you need to torque the fasten as a lubricated part vs. dry. Look at a torque table that shows both dry and wet torque. Their also are primers for Loctite.
ed |
I use loctite on flywheel bolts, coupler/flexplates, tiebars and bolts inside my superchargers when I rebuild them. Never had one come loose.
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thread locking compounds are NOT what are used to hold the parts together. they are the last line of defense for vibration and shock and are never considered as part of the " design" in a hardware solution. if the bolt fell out its not because " the locktite failed" . the locktite wasn't supposed to be holding it together in the first place. if it fell out there was something basic wrong with the way it was installed or with the hardware selection or concept in the first place... i mean, think about it... using a grade 8 allen head in a piece of theaded al.. thats probably a 160,000 psi bolt that requires significant stress to stretch it to preload... are those al threads going to tolerate that without yield ? and what happens when the al warms up and expands while that piece of hardware grows about 60 % less ? it looses its preload... thats what. you can't glue your hardware in to compensate for a bad installation and then when it fails blame the glue. thats like blaming the oil pan when the connecting rod is laying in the bilge
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Originally Posted by 44MTI
(Post 3870595)
Might also try Green Loctite
As someone mentioned earlier, use the loctite brand. I have had small set screws come loose in a high vibration situation (snowmobile primary clutch) with other brand products. With red loctite I never had a problem. |
Take a hammer and flatten the threads, locktite it, and over torque it. Then after you sell the boat and the new guy finds it, blame it on the former owner.
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