Block for 383
 

Contemplating working on building a 383. Would I be better off finding a used block and doing all machining at local machine shop or using a block like this.

http://m.summitracing.com/parts/sum-150100

It says its machined for a stroker. I'm very mechanical but have never assembled a short block and want to so I like the build my own route especially after reading crate motors. None impress me. Just curious if this route is better than junkyard block and going to local machine shop. Also would I still have machine work even with block clearanced for stroker?

Any input greatly appreciated.

fixx
 

that depends on how much poert you want,,me personally,,anything over 500 hp you will want to get a dart block,,the webbing in the block it thicker and you get less block flex then you would with a sbc....id you want to get around machine work i would build a 400 small block,,no machine work required for the crankshaft..on a 350 block you need to clearance the bottom of the cylinderd and if your using hbeam style rods you have to notch the oil pan area for the rod to clear..both are good for torque and both are externally ballanced ..the 383 will need a 400 flywheel and harmonic ballancer..if you but a 4oo you will still need a 400 flywheel ..

I used a seasoned experienced older two piece seal four bolt main truck block . Beware the one piece seal 87-88 blocks . In an attempt to lighten the engine GM made the casting too thin which made them prone to cracking in the lifter valley . Ask me how i know . Weigh these blocks against the older ones and see how much difference in weight . I hope this helps some with your build , here's mine .

http://i1243.photobucket.com/albums/...ep/Image24.jpg
http://i1243.photobucket.com/albums/...ep/Image26.jpg

It says its clearanced for the stroker crank and h beam rods. Plan on mid 400s hp. Nothing too radical. Want it to be reliable. I know high performance and reliability don't normally go to together but I want the most reliable set up. Figure if I come in over 400 a side should be able to get the 272 to 70ish. That'll work. I'm not rich enough to start with a dart block.

Thanks for your input. I want to use the 1 piece seal. Just trying to decide if this lock is worth the 700 as opposed to buying an old one and starting from scratch with sonic testing, boring, honing, and clearancing.

I doubt you'll save any money buying a junk yard block vs the Summit block after all of the machine work is done.

I guess it boils down to who do you trust to do your critical machine work . I prefer to be able to keep a very close eye on things unless it is a couple of shops here that have proven themselves trustworthy professionals . No cookie cutter machine work for me . :daz:

.......plenty of built used motors for less than you can build 1.http://fortmyers.craigslist.org/lee/pts/3605070563.html

when the time comes..
 

just order it with 18cc dish pistons,with 76 cc heads you should be around 9.7;1.....

http://www.competitionproducts.com/M...fo/SBKTP383FT/

I would buy a new Dart block, but it's not my build or budget.

Don't want a used motor. Not 100% opposed to crate motors but like I said havent assembled any yet and would love to get that experience. Torn down and done heads up but never built and assembled a short block.

A new dart block is out of the question and unnecessary as I'm not looking to push power boundaries. So far I prefer the 1 piece seal as they supposedly seal better than 2. Reading a lot of build articles. I love to educate myself. I can find blocks for the 200-300 dollar range and have machined locally. Sounds like that might just be the best option.