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How Hot is TOO Hot !
Last year I was running 180-190 on my gauge. This year I'm running 200-210 according to the gauge.
The two changes I made are I now have a SCX drive with low water pickup only. And a Hardin S/S raw water pump housing. I have heard stories about both of these cause water issues pressure/flow. I guess the first thing I will do is put the plastic housing back on. There is a noticeable difference in flow at the strainer at idle. Any thoughts or ideas would be appreciated. |
I say too hot.
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Too hot before and too hotter after. Seems the pump would be fine, probably same size impeller and ports. The restriction of the low water pickup would be my first guess. Just a guess.
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Too hot even before you did anything .Maybe check the hose that goes from bellhousing to gimbal housing at both ends. Corrosion can choke the hose at the connection points.
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Originally Posted by motor
(Post 3895863)
Too hot even before you did anything .Maybe check the hose that goes from bellhousing to gimbal housing at both ends. Corrosion can choke the hose at the connection points.
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Originally Posted by Pismo10
(Post 3895831)
Too hot before and too hotter after. Seems the pump would be fine, probably same size impeller and ports. The restriction of the low water pickup would be my first guess. Just a guess.
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Did you replace hose or leave it attached at gimbal housing .That's where they usually choke.
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It should have a water temp within 5-10* of the Tstat opening temp.
Before and after are too hot. |
I had a lesser amount of water flow also when i installed the Hardin ss water pump . I put the old plastic housing back on with the new impeller and problem went away . I have since received a new one with a redesigned inner backing plate but will not be able to test until late spring if it ever arrives here . Very nice product but i believe it could have used a little more testing and a better QC guy as mine had some defects in the casting on the inside . The new one has no visible defects .
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do you have a automotive thermostat,that would do it.
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If your raw water cooled, you're almost at the point of boiling the water in the block. Water will boil at 212 degrees. It won't boil until about 250-260* in a closed system that maintains a 15-16psi. This is why our cars have 15psi radiator caps. Keeping it under psi raises the boiling point.
Either way, its too hot. What engine do you have, and what is your oil temp?? |
Originally Posted by motor
(Post 3895886)
Did you replace hose or leave it attached at gimbal housing .That's where they usually choke.
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Originally Posted by mike tkach
(Post 3895987)
do you have a automotive thermostat,that would do it.
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Originally Posted by MILD THUNDER
(Post 3896181)
If your raw water cooled, you're almost at the point of boiling the water in the block. Water will boil at 212 degrees. It won't boil until about 250-260* in a closed system that maintains a 15-16psi. This is why our cars have 15psi radiator caps. Keeping it under psi raises the boiling point.
Either way, its too hot. What engine do you have, and what is your oil temp?? |
Originally Posted by GAZ
(Post 3896207)
Not sure. What is the difference, and how do you tell them apart.
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Originally Posted by GAZ
(Post 3896207)
Not sure. What is the difference, and how do you tell them apart.
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You should have a 140* thermostat in the 500EFI. Your way to hot.
http://www.cpperformance.com/p-23819...-807252t1.aspx Does the engines temperature remain consistant or is it flucating? My initial thoughts are if its consistantly staying at those temps, irregardless of rpm and speed, i'd guess a Tstat issue. |
500EFI's use a 140* Tstat and should run 150-160* on the guage.
I would also verify your water temp guage is reading correctly. At 200-210* you would have quite a bit of steam coming out the exhaust. The high water temp alarm would also be going off. |
Have you checked the p/s & oil coolers for any blockage? It doesn't take much to limit flow which can make it run hot. I fought that one a couple of yrs ago. Randy
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Thanks Guys for all the ideas. Hopefully I'm going to get some time today or tomorrow to figure this out. Supposed to head to Powell for a few days on Wednesday.
Mike, thanks for the Tstat info one of the first things I'm going to check. Wouldn't doubt finding a auto stat. Been working thorough a few screwy issues since I got this boat last year and have seen stuff like that on it already. Griff, good call, I didn't think about it at the time but the exhaust was putting out alot of steam so temp prolly was that hot. (gauge most likely correct or at least close). Mild Thunder, Gauge pretty steady always has been. When you are running it's about 10 degrees warmer than idling. Randy, Definitely going to back flush the coolers and everything else I can get at. Thanks again everybody, after reading these thoughts I bet I find a high temp auto thermostat. It has always run warm. |
You might even try running with no tstat.
Wannabe |
Got a look at it today
I pulled all the hoses back flushed everything, didn't get much of anything. The oil cooler is very clean, I can eye ball right thru all the tubes. Pull the Tstat housing and it and the Tstat (its was a 140) were pretty corroded and gunked up. So I cleaned everything up. Ordered a new Tstat.
Then tested the old one after I cleaned it up (wish I woundn't have). It dropped the string at 147 degrees but didn't get wide open till 175 degrees. So wondering if it was performing worse before I cleaned it. Anyway I also ordered a new plastic raw water pump housing. If I get to Powell and it is still running hot I'll swap out the pump and see what happens. Another question for you all is. At the top of the Tstat housing at the tee that divides the water that goes to the headers there is a threaded rod with springs and balls that limits flow of water to the headers. Are these a good thing? Is everyone using them? Seems like you don't need that restriction. Thanks again for all the ideas. GAZ |
Do you have a power steering cooler also, and if so - did you check it? I only saw reference to engine oil cooler.
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Originally Posted by easyrider1340
(Post 3897056)
Do you have a power steering cooler also, and if so - did you check it? I only saw reference to engine oil cooler.
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sounds like the new t-stat will solve your problems
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springs and balls
Originally Posted by GAZ
(Post 3896719)
I pulled all the hoses back flushed everything, didn't get much of anything. The oil cooler is very clean, I can eye ball right thru all the tubes. Pull the Tstat housing and it and the Tstat (its was a 140) were pretty corroded and gunked up. So I cleaned everything up. Ordered a new Tstat.
Then tested the old one after I cleaned it up (wish I woundn't have). It dropped the string at 147 degrees but didn't get wide open till 175 degrees. So wondering if it was performing worse before I cleaned it. Anyway I also ordered a new plastic raw water pump housing. If I get to Powell and it is still running hot I'll swap out the pump and see what happens. Another question for you all is. At the top of the Tstat housing at the tee that divides the water that goes to the headers there is a threaded rod with springs and balls that limits flow of water to the headers. Are these a good thing? Is everyone using them? Seems like you don't need that restriction. Thanks again for all the ideas. GAZ |
Originally Posted by motor
(Post 3897724)
Those springs and balls are for an alpha application to keep a little water pressure in the block. Bravo rwp's pump enough water that they aren't necessary
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If you changed the helmet I would look at the intake hose to make sure you did not put a twist in it installing the plastic retainer. Thats an easy visual check. I've seen this happen a few times and the result is usually like you describe with high temps.
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read 1st post here ....hose may look perfect till you pull hose bib
http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/g...ml#post3905332 |
Sorry to hear about your problems, lots of good advice on hear already. Thanks for the updates also.
BUT.....Where did I miss the thread where you updated us on buying a NEW DRIVE! Hope you love it, and let us know how much! |
My Hardin SS pumps didn't work. They replaced them with the revised ones and they still didn't work. I put the plastic ones on and they worked. I will keep the plastic ones. I have 2 Hardin SS pumps and fittings for sale.
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