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Originally Posted by MEANGREEN231
(Post 3904418)
When building my sbcs I spent hours talking to comp, howards, lunati and crane. The general consensus is that unless you have a real radical cam and springs that are real high spring rate the 7's are all you need. In fact they all agree that the 7's do a better job locking to the valve stem. The main advantage to the 10's is the come apart easier at tear down time.
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Talked to Bob M. on the phone, and he affirmed that the 7's should work as well as the 10's for my application. After closer inspection of the retainers, I saw some pretty extensive fretting on the undersides where the springs were contacting on five of them. No fretting where the locks and retainers were in contact - just on the spring contact. Coincidentally, I had five exhaust lobes with extreme spalling due to the heat treatment on the surface breaking down (different story). Unfortunately, I wasn't there when the shop broke down the heads, so I have no way to match the bad retainers up with the failed lobes, but I highly suspect they are related. Very likely that this explains the broken lock as well.
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are the retainers steel or aluminum?
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Originally Posted by mike tkach
(Post 3904461)
are the retainers steel or aluminum?
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Just use good quality locks and retainers. Your setup is mild, so just check the installed heights, check the springs, make sure you aren't smacking the retainers into the guides/seals, and use lube when assembling the locks. Double check your valve stems for abnormal groove wear.
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