Trs to Speedmaster 3a conversion
 

Has anyone out there converted their Trs to Speedmaster? What's involved?

lets see if i can cover most all the steps
remove your engines
remove trs drives
measure transom for x dimension of each drive
remove inner and outer transom plates
plug all existing holes
refinish outer and inner side of transom
locate a transom drilling tool for speedmaser
locate x dimension from previous measurement
screw ssm tool to outer transom and cut away
install ssm transom plates
change over tail shaft housings on your trannys
reinstall engines
install ssm drives
hopefully all your measurements where correct
dave

Contact DJD from the board he converted his Cigarette a couple years ago.

It's alot of work.

I was hoping some of the parts, dimensions were common,wrong. Maybe it would be better to go to a heavy duty Bravo.

40Scarab,

Stellings makes an extension box that converts a TRS to a Bravo One. Basically, their extension box has the same bolt pattern as a TRS transom mount assembly so that you don't need to fill in the cutouts in the transom to fit the Bravo One. In other words, it's a TRS bolt pattern on the transom end but is designed to bolt up a Bravo one drive to it thus eliminating all the glass work. That would be a good way to go and much easier if you wanted to convert to a Bravo One system.

Kaama,
Do you know anyone that has used the Stelling boxes for the TRS Conversion?

MArk

Mr. Cig,

No not personally, but I sure wouldn't think it is something that is all that complicated. I mean, the bolt pattern is there---not much else to consider I would think other than what one would normally have to consider when installing an extension box---but perhaps I could be wrong.

Kaama, Mr. Cig,

You have to move the Motors back and it does take some Tweaking !!!

40 Scarab, I did it to a 38 Sonic a few years ago, If you want the details PM with your email address and I can get back to you the begining of the week. There are Pros and cons on both sides of the Bravo vs SSM III debate.

Sgrady I talked to Stelling and they said that the only thing that you needed to do was to put in a drive shaft that was not included in the 2000 buck price. Is there more to it then that? What I was trying ti figure out is how do you get the motor to stay put once the transmision is gone??? The motor mounts on my boat are in the middle. Is there something that needs to be doen with my set up to make it ok?

Jon

TRS TO SPEEDMASTER 3A
 

Seems like a ton of work to attain how many miles per hour?
What are you running for motors?
You may be smarter to send your lower units to Bobs and have them weld on a couple of TRS latest design nose cones and forget about spending all the time and money to attain how much gain?
Let us know what you decide to do.

Well, when I coverted my boat from TRS to a Bravo One with Stelling boxes, I kept the engines in the same spot and only put a driveshaft in place where the tranny's once were as Audiofn has mentioned. My engines had front and rear engine mounts so there was plenty of strength to hold in place without the tranny's. However, this past winter I had decided to move my engines back to a stock Bravo One factory type installation. In other words, it's how relatively any boat would come from the factory with a Bravo One system. By moving the engines back to stock factory installation, I am able to now eliminate the rear engine mounts as the rear part of the engine will now be mounted to the inner trasom plate via the bell housing with two bolts thus totally elimnating the need of a rear engine mount any longer. I have switched from the stock Merc front engine mounts to some Gil tubular engine mounts which are a little better design, less bulky and don't take up as much room. Anyway, by moving the engines back from where they once were to the stock Bravo transom mount (aprox 10 inches), it does obviously require moving the front engine mounts. This is where SGrady said it takes a lot of tweeking and fussing and he is definately RIGHT-----Engines in, engines out---engines in, engines out---in/out, in/out, in/out, in/out, for about half the day trying to get the alignment correct when making the mounts and drilling the holes in the CORRECT spots. Anyway, glad that's over with!
BTW, the driveshafts were about $300 a piece extra

He is asking about TRS to Speedmaster, not bravo's. Anyone do this conversion????

Hi Bulldog,

Hey bud, I see you on here from time to time---how are you doing? Anyway, you're right and I'm sorry, I didn't mean to get off topic from what was oringinally asked----I know that can easily happen here, but "40Scarab" was also asking about a TRS to Bravo conversion in his second post and I was only trying to be helpful.

BTW, how's that boat of yours doing?

And I had asked about mounting up the engine. I guess that my boat only haveing the standard engine mounts in the middle of the engine and using the back tranny mount means that I would be up for some major fabricating. Sounds like I will be staying with my TRS drives untell I have to make the swap. Oh well I like them better then Bravo anyhow :D:D

Jon

Hey KAAMA, ever think about just moving one engine back to the stock bravo position up against the transom? And leave the other where it was setup with the TRS style? Sorta having a mini stagger? Wonder ho that would affect the handling of the boat at all??? It would help a little in working on the engines i think, eh?

Kaama-
I'm sorry- I was not jumping in your case, just pointed that out.

I have a couple of leaking fuel tanks, and am going to have 4 new ones fabricated. Those tanks were very securely foamed in, and water must have collected in and around the foam. I have 1 more tank to get loose. The rear motor will have to come out, and am going to remove it when the new tanks are ready.

I have been working on it off and on, and want to take the 'When in doubt' approach to the tank situation.

I have modified the trailer from a lift-off only, and still have to mount the winch post. I am also doing some repairs to the deck- there are some hairline cracks on top of the bulkheads- this deck is THIN. Larry Smith said "oh, by the way, the deck is not made to be walked on." What an understatement. I may put some carbon fiber tape/ribs under it. I think just a little extra support will solve the problem.

I am now shooting to have it ready for the SBI worlds. The hull is currently all white, and I am thinking of putting KAAMA down the sides as was originally done, only using neon colors for background. Opinions?????

Also, do you know what the Kaama logo with the heart, etc. was???- I found some red paint on the deck about 6 feet from the bow....

I am hoping someone will start a post about the Larry Smith Scarabs similar to the Apache post currently in development. Mike J, are you there?


Bulldog aka Ronnie

Wally,
Yes, it would be nice to maybe stagger them somewhat---anything that makes the engines easier to work on is a definate plus. Although my engines are already pretty easy to work on as they are side by side. This is because the back support of the back seat is part of the engine hatch so it nicely opens up the engine pit to get at and work on the engines which is a feature that I really like on the Active Thunder. No hanging/bending over a firewall/backseat like on most boats unless a boat already comes with a decent amount of space between the engines and firewall. Now, having moved the engines back another 10 inches (stock Bravo installation) they will be even that much more accessible.

Bulldog,
I remember taking the fuel tanks out of my 38' KAAMA SE---it's a job! I completely gutted that whole boat. Of course mine was a Wellcraft---and I'm sure it wasn't as strong and nicely built as a Larry Smith piece. I wanted to take the saddle tanks out permenently (68 gallons each) and drop the cockpit floor (5-7 inches) as much as I could (just above the belly tank) so that I would have a little more freeboard in the boat. That was about the only thing I didn't like about the KAAMA SE was that there wasn't much freeboard and about half of your body was hanging out of boat's cockpit. I like personally like the feeling of being in a DEEP cockpit---makes me feel secure---like I'm really IN the boat! I feel that way with my Active Thunder. So, if you're removing those fuel tanks you might consider dropping the cockpit floor----you just might like it a little better. It's all personal preference I guess. I wish you well with your project. Keep us posted will you. Boy, did I ever go off the thread subject----whew! Sorry all---it's just too easy to do! :eek: :rolleyes: ;) :D

Kaama-
My tanks are 4 saddle tanks, 2 on each side. they are 48 inches long, about 17 inches wide. The tanks were held in with urethane foam which I broke out in pieces. The next time I ever do this I will probably try a pressure washer- I bet it would demolish that foam.

My hatches are about 8 feet long. My setup is a full stagger with Patterson Marine headers. Mucho cool. My other boat is a Bayli.....
TO BE CONTINUED.

Bulldog over and out

Bulldog,

Man, I'd LOVE to see that boat! Sounds awesome! :)

i went that route and did this, it was a lot easier!!!!!
http://www.offshoreonly.com/forum/sh...threadid=29406

any input on this?? i have been considering this for a while!!!!!!