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Originally Posted by sdg0080
(Post 4046853)
Price isn't even half of the harden one. That harden is 800 the crank driven is around 250. The link is a few pages back ill see if I can find it and repost it.
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No real secret to it. The iron blocks are very solid. I just picked one with 120k miles. It should just need a hone job and not bored. The bores looked great. Still seeing cross hatching in the bores. The 2005+ have beefier rods buy they are cracked metal rods and need resized if you put arp bolts in them. If you go efi get the ecu from the doner and the tac module for the drive hy wire throttle body. Otherwise the 2002 is pretty much the last year of drive by cable. And no benefit from buying summit block. The junkyard one will have all your brackets anf odds and ends. My machinist quoted me 1200-1500 in labor for doing everything.
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Originally Posted by sdg0080
(Post 4047179)
No real secret to it. The iron blocks are very solid. I just picked one with 120k miles. It should just need a hone job and not bored. The bores looked great. Still seeing cross hatching in the bores. The 2005+ have beefier rods buy they are cracked metal rods and need resized if you put arp bolts in them. If you go efi get the ecu from the doner and the tac module for the drive hy wire throttle body. Otherwise the 2002 is pretty much the last year of drive by cable. And no benefit from buying summit block. The junkyard one will have all your brackets anf odds and ends. My machinist quoted me 1200-1500 in labor for doing everything.
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Around 1100 bucks for most engines. They are all six bolt mains. 450 is nothing. Just throw in a cam and springs and run it. Again these bottom ends will handle 600 -700 hp in stock form. They pumped 1200hp out of a turbo 4.8 l out of a junkyard. Stock bottom end on it. Everything from tear down to rebuilding. Thats all the labor to clean hone assemble it all.
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I'm going probably a little overboard with my build... I decided to go scat I beam rods with arp cap screws. Its not much more than than reconditioning the old rods and adding the arp bolts.
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Well i finally got to go pick up my 6.0 out of a 07 2500. It has around 87,000miles on it and i picked it up for $1150. So since it was an automatic i need to get a flywheel for it, fab som brackets to put my seawater pump where the AC comp was and figure out what brackets to go with to convert it from the 4 bolt motor mounts to the old 3bolt. So my 1st question is should i buy a flywheel from GM or from jegs/ Summit? 2nd question is what is this spacer that i need to bolt the coupler up to the flywheel? 3rd question is where do i go to learn about trimming this wiring harness down cause i would like to do that myself.
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Originally Posted by Lighting Bolt
(Post 4051579)
Well i finally got to go pick up my 6.0 out of a 07 2500. It has around 87,000miles on it and i picked it up for $1150. So since it was an automatic i need to get a flywheel for it, fab som brackets to put my seawater pump where the AC comp was and figure out what brackets to go with to convert it from the 4 bolt motor mounts to the old 3bolt. So my 1st question is should i buy a flywheel from GM or from jegs/ Summit? 2nd question is what is this spacer that i need to bolt the coupler up to the flywheel? 3rd question is where do i go to learn about trimming this wiring harness down cause i would like to do that myself.
ebay has a ton of them. |
see on mine I have the flat 6.0 flexplate. from what I'm reading I guess that one should bolt up without any issue. I guess time will tell...lol
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flexplate won't work, need a manual flywheel, the drive coupler bolts to the pressure plate bolt holes...
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I've got the flywheel off my 350. But I don't know if that will bolt to my ls crank
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