Oil puke tank
 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]507625[/ATTACH]I have twin 509's and I'm seeing a teaspoon of oil in my air cleaner once in awhile. I was wondering if this can be used in my situation and do I install one per engine or do I need 2 per engine

Thanks

if you are not running a blower, run a reg PCV, thats what merc started with the 500HP, swicthed all my boats over...keeps engine much cleaner...

One for both engines if you only have one breather fitting tapped into only one valve cover for each engine. If you have two breather fittings one per each valve cover then it will be easier with 2 puke tanks mounted on your transom behind each engine, or you can find a tank with 4 AN inlet fittings.


[ATTACH=CONFIG]507623[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]507624[/ATTACH]

Nice setup Thanks for the info.

I was told by Nickerson Performance never to put a PCV valve on a performance boat engine unless you want to blow it up. I never really understood why and I know the Hp500's have them tapped into the intake manifold. I had PCV valves installed years ago when I had milky white stuff in my breathers,. It definitely got rid of the moisture but caused other issues like high idling because a PCV is like a vacuum leak. Then I had to re-adjust my secondary carb plates to make the engine idle back down to 800 rpm. Now I'm sucking oil and other contaminants back into my engine. I think that can cause a detonation issue.. No more PCV's, Bad heads were the problem with moisture and I will repeat NO PCV'S on a boat engine is what I was told by Nickerson Performance.

Exactly why I have the puke tank on my engine. PCV's are really only for lowering engine emissions and to prevent oil vapors fumes from entering the atmosphere during combustion process by dawning it back into the combustion chamber to burn these vapors. It too keeps oil residue from getting all over your engine and engine compartment.
Puke tank accomplishes the oil mist and residue control, but not the fumes from crankcase caused during the combustion process.

Perfectly explained. Looking at your engine pics..What kind of hose and fitting are they.. What size did you run to the tank ?. I ordered 2 of these tanks.
Thanks

I used Jeg's braided Nylon hose so it would not scratch my valve covers or anything on the engine and I really did not need braided steel for what I was doing here. My fittings for my tank were an -12. I would have to pull out the receipts to be sure but that is not important. Just get what will work with your tanks. U will need the right tank -an male fitting and something similar to what I have below they have different finishes and colors. Red blue is common. But I really like the black and stainless fittings too.

http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS+Performan...10941/10002/-1

http://www.jegs.com/i/Russell/799/613193/10002/-1


I used this hose because I needed something more flexible than Braided stainless steel that would not apply any additional pressure on my valve cover fitting. With the right fittings on there they look really good. Be sure you have a dremel tool and a cutting wheel to cut this hose. Trust me it is fast and cuts it better than anything out there. Tape it off with duct tape and make your cuts by putting the hose in a vise so you can spin it to get a perfect cut. You will have to clean out the hose after each cut to get the rubber residue out of there.

Reliable, Flexible, Affordable
Designed to meet strict racing specifications, this nylon-infused hose works with synthetic lubricants, coolant, oil, and most gasoline and alcohol-based or hydrocarbon fuel*. The nylon construction offers a lightweight alternative to standard stainless steel braided hose. For example: Compared to using stainless steel braided hose, vehicles with dry sump oil & electric fuel pump systems can reduce weight 25-30 pounds for a gain of 2.5 to 3 HP.

Features
High-tensile nylon fiber outer shell withstands high pressure, temperature, and abrasion
Seamless nitrile inner tube with integral braid
Sizes: -04AN, -06AN, -08AN, -10AN, -12AN, -16AN
Lengths: 3', 6', 10', 15', 20'
Accepted by the NHRA
Not for use with brake fluid (e.g. vacuum lines or extreme heat applications)
*Fuel compatibility not guaranteed due to fuel manufacturers' unpublished additives

Thanks for all the info.. One more question: What type of fitting is that coming out of your valve covers??

http://www.jegs.com/i/Russell/799/66...rentProductId=

With a aluminum retaining nut on the inside, had to get this nut from Fastenal, NTP threaded of course. And also two nylon washers one on the top of the valve cover and one inside of the valve cover to eliminate any leaks.

Good luck.

http://www.russellperformance.com/mc.../661890_lg.jpg