540/B&M 250 Issue
09-19-2013, 10:38 PM
#31
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I believe the reason was the there was a better selection of cores to achieve the higher lift on a shorter duration that I was after.
If that makes sense. I believe they are 8.1 cores.
09-20-2013, 09:26 AM
#33
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first off thanks to everyone for the input...
The top ends were spec'd by Bob M. Retro hydraulic rollers in Gen V blocks. Used his custom grinds from Cam motion, Morrell lifters, Isky 9005 springs, Manton pushrods, and Rollmaster adjustable timing sets. 088 heads with some pretty extensive head work. I had the heads flowed prior to spec'ing the cams and they were good to .700 The cams have 4* of advance ground into them and the bottom ends were built and cams installed by a very reputable local builder that I have worked with on several other projects. Cams installed at 0* due to the ground in advance and the builder said they were spot on. The bottom ends are Callies/Oliver/JE. The firing change order was done by Bob. The reason I tore these back down after about an hour was because of this issue. First thoughts were a vacuum leak but we could find nothing. When I reassembled the top ends I swaped the heads from the other engine and the issue stayed the same. I am thinking either bad distributor (timing) or wrong cam grind as the other engine runs great. Thanks again to everyone! keep the input coming.
The top ends were spec'd by Bob M. Retro hydraulic rollers in Gen V blocks. Used his custom grinds from Cam motion, Morrell lifters, Isky 9005 springs, Manton pushrods, and Rollmaster adjustable timing sets. 088 heads with some pretty extensive head work. I had the heads flowed prior to spec'ing the cams and they were good to .700 The cams have 4* of advance ground into them and the bottom ends were built and cams installed by a very reputable local builder that I have worked with on several other projects. Cams installed at 0* due to the ground in advance and the builder said they were spot on. The bottom ends are Callies/Oliver/JE. The firing change order was done by Bob. The reason I tore these back down after about an hour was because of this issue. First thoughts were a vacuum leak but we could find nothing. When I reassembled the top ends I swaped the heads from the other engine and the issue stayed the same. I am thinking either bad distributor (timing) or wrong cam grind as the other engine runs great. Thanks again to everyone! keep the input coming.
If you looked at both spec sheets and degreed the cams as spec. How can you make the statement; WRONG CAM GRIND. You should go back and find out what you did wrong before you start guessing whats wrong. That's inaccurate information at this time.
09-20-2013, 10:18 AM
#35
It was just a statement. Sorry you took offence to it, but it was not directed at Bob or anyone else, but would I be out of line to think just maybe the cam was packaged wrong? If I knew what I/we did wrong, I would be boating right now. Not posting for advice. Thanks!
09-20-2013, 10:57 AM
#36
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Did you look at the cam spec sheets for each cam and verifying the numbers when you degreed the cams. The cam cores are billet and checked after grinding. I know this as a FACT, since Madara, does ALL of my cams, and I have never had 2 different cam grinds for the same build, this is over a 8 year period
I had to have JimV lay them out and check everything for me. And I did get 2 identical cams.
09-20-2013, 11:09 AM
#37
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So what is all comes down to is, everyone is trying to help. Yes; I take offence to even mentioning the cam, it's the first thing people want to blame for a issue. So you even saying the cam was not matched or packaged wrong indicates to me that; checking TDC and degreeing, may be questionable.
I would suggest; pulling the engine, oil pan and the timing cover and verifying the timing marks, if you did not degree the cam in. At that point you can degree the cam and check it.
09-20-2013, 11:15 AM
#38
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Why did you not get any cam cards? If not; That's only a phone call away.
09-20-2013, 11:41 AM
#39
There were no cam cards in the boxes. There was a single card emailed to me that was used to degree both cams. I wasn't there to witness the process but have confidence in the builders ability. Hell maybe he was having an off day and DID infact fuk it up. Either way I posted this seeking input BEFORE I go the route of pulling the engine back out. Not to get blasted for making a simple comment. We can put this one to bed. Peace Out!
09-20-2013, 12:07 PM
#40
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I'am not going to go back and forth on your statement. Packaged wrong with the spec sheet, then you install the cam, you are 100% positive the gear marks are correct, you degreed the cam and it came in, accordingly as the spec sheet stated? Or; No, we did not degree the cam and do not know 100% that maybe we missed the degree marks?
So what is all comes down to is, everyone is trying to help. Yes; I take offence to even mentioning the cam, it's the first thing people want to blame for a issue. So you even saying the cam was not matched or packaged wrong indicates to me that; checking TDC and degreeing, may be questionable.
I would suggest; pulling the engine, oil pan and the timing cover and verifying the timing marks, if you did not degree the cam in. At that point you can degree the cam and check it.
So what is all comes down to is, everyone is trying to help. Yes; I take offence to even mentioning the cam, it's the first thing people want to blame for a issue. So you even saying the cam was not matched or packaged wrong indicates to me that; checking TDC and degreeing, may be questionable.
I would suggest; pulling the engine, oil pan and the timing cover and verifying the timing marks, if you did not degree the cam in. At that point you can degree the cam and check it.
