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600 sci, how many hours do you have on yours? Rebuild cost?

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600 sci, how many hours do you have on yours? Rebuild cost?

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Old 10-14-2013, 12:01 PM
  #21  
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Good read! I have a 600 in my boat and actually blew a lower up with the motor still stock...I have since done the whipple upgrade.

I also have a friend with 600's in a Flame with the stg 2 upgrades running XR drives and has had no issues for 180 hours....
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Old 09-25-2015, 10:00 AM
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Update at 403 hours.... no problems runs perfect. I just ran it last weekend 94 mph without pushing it. No oil consumption, no noise. BUT.... I decided based to do a head rebuild over the winter. I know that at a minimum I need valve springs but since I want to be preventative I am rebuilding the heads entirely. I thought about changing the cam but decided against it. The boat is plenty fast and runs strong. I don't need to manage more torque through the drive. In summary I have had a whipple stage 2 running this motor for over 300 hours with no problems. I would say the max rpm that I ran is 5800... 5900. I am trying to get 7 more years out of the motor without a complete rebuild. That would put me at 750 to 800 hours. What do you guys think? Am I wasting money ? Or being wise?
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Old 09-28-2015, 10:00 PM
  #23  
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We are refreshing our NA 500 ci motors this winter with 90-100 hrs. We have a lot of hours at 6000-6500 RPM. I think you are making a good decision to freshen the motors now before something in the valve train fails. If you have the engine out, you might consider dropping the oil plan to just take a look at one rod bearings to confirm all is good.
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Old 09-30-2015, 08:46 AM
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I
Originally Posted by relaxalot
Update at 403 hours.... no problems runs perfect. I just ran it last weekend 94 mph without pushing it. No oil consumption, no noise. BUT.... I decided based to do a head rebuild over the winter. I know that at a minimum I need valve springs but since I want to be preventative I am rebuilding the heads entirely. I thought about changing the cam but decided against it. The boat is plenty fast and runs strong. I don't need to manage more torque through the drive. In summary I have had a whipple stage 2 running this motor for over 300 hours with no problems. I would say the max rpm that I ran is 5800... 5900. I am trying to get 7 more years out of the motor without a complete rebuild. That would put me at 750 to 800 hours. What do you guys think? Am I wasting money ? Or being wise?
Have you ever had an IAC ( idle air control valve) go bad? I have heard of them going out but I haven't had one go bad yet, been thinking about carrying spare.

Last edited by sport; 09-30-2015 at 08:51 AM.
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Old 09-30-2015, 11:29 AM
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Originally Posted by sport
I

Have you ever had an IAC ( idle air control valve) go bad? I have heard of them going out but I haven't had one go bad yet, been thinking about carrying spare.
No problems with the IAC valve. Probably a good idea to carry a spare..
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Old 10-01-2015, 07:03 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by relaxalot
No problems with the IAC valve. Probably a good idea to carry a spare..
Do yourself a favor and change it as part of maintenance or go thru this and it shorts out PCM aka ECU like it did mine. Keep the old one in boat for a spare to get you home. They are not very expensive you can get at rockauto.com $39.79 or local parts house for cheap the delco part # is AC423.

http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/g...-no-boost.html

Last edited by Boater8987; 10-01-2015 at 07:21 AM.
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Old 10-01-2015, 11:13 AM
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Originally Posted by Boater8987
Do yourself a favor and change it as part of maintenance or go thru this and it shorts out PCM aka ECU like it did mine. Keep the old one in boat for a spare to get you home. They are not very expensive you can get at rockauto.com $39.79 or local parts house for cheap the delco part # is AC423.

http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/g...-no-boost.html
Good advice from an old salt right there!
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Old 10-01-2015, 12:23 PM
  #28  
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To add more IAC info:

The IAC valve is listed also for :
FORD WINDSTAR (2001 - 2003)
LINCOLN LS (2002 - 2003)
MERCRUISER All Models (1996 - 2007)

Part#'s from several manufacures:

Mercruiser / Quicksilver #1F2Z9F715AA, #862998
MOTORCRAFT CX1766
Standard Motor Products #AC423
Delphi #CV10103
ACDelco#217-3217
BWD #50558

Last edited by SB; 10-01-2015 at 12:33 PM.
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Old 10-02-2015, 02:22 PM
  #29  
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The BWD 50558 does not work correctly on the Mercruiser apps and FWIW it is made in Mexico, I will test this again to verify on another app to confirm 100 %. This Ford style IAC thru Merc is used on a lot of their apps across the board..

Do NOT punch holes into your oil filters to help drain them. - where do you think that metal of the hole you punched it goes ? You are breaking small metal fragments to make a hole - it drains back down into the oil system with the oil that is draining from the oil filter.

A little story OEM new boat with Mercruiser years ago - Not mine but story was new boat in for the after engine breakin 20 hour service - motor oil & filter change - tech punches hole in the oil filter to drain to prevent mess while changing. Tech completes service - boat owner takes boat out 6 hours of engine run time afterwards - engine failure - Merc warranty - sorry warranty is void - why - because we found metal oil filter pieces in the oil system. How did that happen - Who punched the oil filter to help drain it before the change ? - end of story.

Good luck with that - makes sense now why not to punch a hole in your oil filter.

Unscrew it slightly and gravity will help drain it beforehand . Tip for everyone.

Last edited by BUP; 10-02-2015 at 02:29 PM.
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Old 10-02-2015, 11:07 PM
  #30  
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Um, not being a smart ass BUP. But how would the metal, if any, from pumching a hole in the filter get past the paper filter eliment? Thats what it dose, it stops stuff from getting into the engine???????
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