Oh my. A single 2x8 over a 12ft span would scare me lifting the engines. Looks like she was flexing a bit in the pic, but apparently it worked for ya!

I noticed that also in the pics but not sure if that is due to the photo lense on my phone or actual flex. I tell myself it's my phone. The angled supports at the top are the same as the columns, three boards with the middle one cut shorter so the crossmember rests on it. It's pretty stout. Even with the wrenching of the chain hoist it didn't move much.

Leakdown test completed tonight. This test wasn't as straight forward as I thought it was going to be. On a few cylinders I was able to hear/feel air coming out of more that one area with one greater than the other. I listed the area with the greater leakage first in the results below. Where I listed crank as the area of leakage I felt the air escaping out of the breather holes in the valve covers, someone please let me know if that method is wrong for detecting leak from crankcase. Also, on stb motor I already began disassembly so my distributor was loose and I could see bubbles at the base where I labeled crank as the leakage.

Well, if my methods are correct it looks like my worst fears with these motors came true. I'm going to have to get into the bottom end; I was hoping for just a top end rebuild.

Port
1. 22% intake / crank
3. 50% exhaust / crank
5. 40% crank / exhaust
7. 30% exhaust
2. 15% crank
4. 27% crank
6. 85% intake / crank(small)
8. 33% crank / exhaust

Stb
1. 18% crank / exhaust
3. 10% crank
5. 22% crank
7. 30% crank
2. 45% crank
4. 80% intake / crank
6. 18% crank / exhaust
8. 25% crank

Stroking to 496 would be ideal but the sudden cost of all new rotating assemblies is too much right now. Thinking of maybe 468. The added cost of only pistons and machine work is more doable. I will be performing the assembly myself.

Do a search on OSO about bore notching a 454. It seems to help out a bunch on a stock block and also I would think on a 468". A couple of years ago the were a couple of threads about it.

When doing your leakdown test, get yourself a rubber mallet. When you hear the air blowing out the exhaust port, or intake port, give the valve stem a sharp tap with the hammer. Many times the valves get a chunk of carbon and wont seal all the way.

Either way, you're this far into it. Engines are out. I wouldn't bore anything unless it needs it. And if it needs a bore, I'd go .030 over. The extra couple HP you'll gain going from a 4.280 bore, to a 4.310 bore, really isn't worth it. Keep the cylinder walls thicker, and have more room for another bore if something happens.

Your stock cranks are good pieces. The stock rods are too. But, something to think about, is getting NEW rods. Today, you can get a set of H beam rods, for not a whole lot more than it will cost to recondition your old rods, install new arp bolts, disassemble, etc. You might have 200+ dollars into the original rods, where a new set of H beams can be had for 200 more. Plus, the old GM Rods will bring 75 bucks or so on ebay if they aren't damaged. The H beam is a superior rod, with floating pins.

Pistons, my buddy is running the SpeedPro replacement forged ones like your engines currently have. Decently priced, and have the coating on the skirts.

Since your budget is tight, theres nothing really wrong with keeping the flat tappet cam, just going a bit larger than stock. I also recommend the crower cam saver lifters. They have a groove cut into the body, which helps get a little more oil on the lobes. The stock intake and carb isn't really hurting power at that level.

Do a nice rebuild, with slightly hotter cam, better breathing exhaust, and you'll be good for a while.

I agree with the above, however I would run a scat 4340 I beam, bushed for floating pins, with ARP2000 7/16 bolts. Rated to 900hp, and you can get them new direct from SCAT for $381.00. They are called scat pro comp series. One of the best I beam designs out there. I am personally not a fan of reusing stock rods due not only to the economics, but the forgings are inferior/old technology vs the current 4340 offerings, and the rods have been fatigued from use. Not worth the risk IMO.

Are you thinking about Brodix heads still?

Here are the SCAT rods

http://i1140.photobucket.com/albums/...ps5e6f23b8.jpg

http://i1140.photobucket.com/albums/...ps466af9c1.jpg

4340 H Beam with ARP 2000 bolts will be stronger than the I beam setup, although the I beam will be plenty for what he's doing.

The I beam is good to at least 900 hp. Way overkill here, plus it fits the budget. These Scat rods have one of the best reputations as far as I beams go. If it were a 900-1000 hp motor, yes I agree H beam. For this application, money wasted... And usually the rod never breaks, but the fastener. I think the I beam is overkill for what he's doing, but at $381.00 with arp 2000 bolts, why the heck not?!

See, as hard as we try, we just can't get along! Lol

Thank you all for your suggestions. Leak testing is complete, I already returned the tester to my mech friend. He only has one for the shop so had to do my testing quickly. I already have the exhaust I plan on using, 496 aluminum mani's and stainless risers. Also have the carbs which I picked up from the classifieds, Holley 800 Merc blue carbs.

I agree with you with only boring (if needed) to the smallest amount needed. I will assess once heads are removed as to what's needed. I'm really not wanting to get new rods. If I can get away with using stock rods I will for the cost savings. With new rods and pistons I might as well step up to a new rotating assembly and that's not what I'm trying to do here, would like to but just can't. Remember, heads and valve train are still in the works also. Just quoted $225 for boring and honing all cylinders per block if I drop it off to them bare, not bad for machine work that may be needed.

Just found out this morning that I have one set of 990 heads and one set of 188's. If I can sell these for asking price I may reconsider my options. I already planned on spending for valve train and heads, this bottom end stuff is extra so see what I can recoup from selling heads and stock exhaust before making concrete decisions.

Jeysson