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Thinking of running a crossover
So I'm thinking of running a crossover for looks. I would like to get rid of the Merc thermostat housing and water pump to clean up the engine. I just have a 400HP N/A 468 and boat has not gone past 67MPH so I don't think I should have water PSI problems. Will this just be a quick and easy bolt on for me to clean up the engine?
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Originally Posted by the deep
(Post 4019455)
So it looks like you also have Gils? So do you just run from the thermostat to bottom of manifold and then manifold to riser up top? |
If you have a standard water pick up off your bravo drive you should be fine. Through hull pick-up's and some of the Imco drives can/will increase the water pressure. Simply fixed with a pressure relief valve if that's the case though. Cpperformance sells a complete kit for around $300.00 The kit I bought came with a 1" bypass hose also. It's real clean looking too! Depending on how your belts are ran, you will probably have to replace the belts as well and lengthen or shorten your hoses to the exhaust manifolds.
Here's a pic of my crossover set-up. I use a different thermostat housing than the one that would come in the kit. The one in the kit is a nice piece though! Looks like The Deep and I use the same housings. I opened up my bypass hole on mine from 3/8' npt to 3/4' npt. http://i986.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps78056fbb.jpg |
Yes I'm just using the pick up off my bravo drive. The $300 kit from CP is the one I'm looking at. I was going to replace my belts and hoses, I have never replaced them and I don't know when the last time the previous owner replaced them.
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be sure to use the one where you can use a by-pass and run a thermostat, if not hard pressed to get temps over 100, have run both ways...
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Could you explain how a cross over works. How does water circulate without a pump?
Padraig |
the sea pump moves the water,the cidculating pump slows it down.
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I take it circulating pump and sea pump is different? I thought that a bravo set up had only the engine mounted pump?
Thanks, Padraig |
Originally Posted by Padraig
(Post 4019716)
I take it circulating pump and sea pump is different? I thought that a bravo set up had only the engine mounted pump?
Thanks, Padraig The bypass feeds water out of the crossover through a hose up to the thermostat housing. There's an inlet and 2 outlets that sit above the thermostat on the thermostat housing. From there it feeds to your exhaust manifolds. If you didn't have a bypass, your exhaust manifolds wouldn't get any water until the thermostat opened up. There's a real good pic of the bypass in the pic I posted. |
Thanks! I learned something today....always a good thing.
Padraig |
Originally Posted by Sunrocket24
(Post 4019464)
Now that's what I'm talking about!! Very beautiful clean looking engine Deep!!! My engine looks like a freaking Octopus right now!
So it looks like you also have Gils? So do you just run from the thermostat to bottom of manifold and then manifold to riser up top? |
Looks like KE doesn't offer the thermostat/diverter housing you have. Any idea of anyone who sells something similar? The CP kit one looks hideous IMO. Thx
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glad I found this thread, I'm in the same position. Replacing my old 454 330 hp with a carburated 502 mag rebuilt to stock specs. I boat in fresh water and do lots of low speed cruises and idle quite a bit. Stock bravo drive and my boat used to be a salt water boat and also has a through hull fitting that has a valve and a pump that says "aerator" what are the pros and cons of running a bypass, which do you recommend and should I add a sea strainer?
http://i1373.photobucket.com/albums/...ps6a24506d.jpg |
I have a well built 524 and I'm running a crossover with a 160 thermostat. I idle for long distances and the temps are dead on. I would definitely run a bypass with a thermostat, of course I boat in some very cold water. I don't use a sea strainer, but the water I boat in is crystal clear. If your boating in murky water or like to pull up to beaches, I would recommend the sea strainer.
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Would the crossover be beneficial on a small block with an Alpha??
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Originally Posted by stimleck
(Post 4035035)
should I add a sea strainer?
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Originally Posted by stimleck
(Post 4035035)
glad I found this thread, I'm in the same position. Replacing my old 454 330 hp with a carburated 502 mag rebuilt to stock specs. I boat in fresh water and do lots of low speed cruises and idle quite a bit. Stock bravo drive and my boat used to be a salt water boat and also has a through hull fitting that has a valve and a pump that says "aerator" what are the pros and cons of running a bypass, which do you recommend and should I add a sea strainer?
If its a stock rebuild, then run a stock recirc pump. A sea strainer is always good, especially if you boat in shallow areas with weeds, leaves, etc.
Originally Posted by CC230
(Post 4035854)
Would the crossover be beneficial on a small block with an Alpha??
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Originally Posted by CC230
(Post 4035854)
Would the crossover be beneficial on a small block with an Alpha??
http://i1243.photobucket.com/albums/...ep/Image24.jpg |
Thanks for the reply The Deep, I guess the question is, will the pump in the Alpha be enough to keep it cool?. I'm also building a 383 and yes it would be nice to clean up the mess on the front!
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I would also like to know if this works with an alpha drive. Also can it be done on motors with a serpentine belt.
Chris |
I also have some questions about the pros / cons of the circulating pump, i have a dart 598 cui. 770hp@5500rpm
Currently i have no thermostat for water, and my oiltermostat doesnt do the job good enough.. My engine runs too cold and i have a big condensation issue.. I have a solution for the oil, but not for the water.. thinking about running thermostat but not an circulating pump.. Is there any risk of the back of the engine running hot? Im going to use a bypass. I run in cold water, about 64 farnheit Sorry, didnt find any better pictures: https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.n...50405328_n.jpg |
I'm running 700hp with a crossover with a Stewart thermostat and bypass and no oil thermostat and I run in water as cold as 34 degrees and as warm as upper 70's. It works great engine warms up quickly, zero condensation problems. The only time it gets a little out of spec is when I've been running hard and drop to an idle, my oil temp will climb to 270 and then drop to 190.
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How would i run a bypass if Im using a cam driven pump and it has 2 outlets, one on each side. it basically each outlet feeds one side of the block?
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