Inspect the 1/2 inch roller bolt. If it is bent even a little bit you will have to replace it. A roller will not roll on a bent shaft. Actually it is very easy to bend this bolt if you hit the roller at all during loading. We will talk about your driving skills later (only kidding, I've done it or else how would I know about it?).

Now run down to your nearest hardware store and get some 1/2 inch and 3/4 inch PEX water tubing. This is where the $5 comes in. Actually you only need about 5 cents worth, but they have minimums. If you live in a newer home you may even have some laying around making this a free upgrade. Get a replacement bolt while you're there if you need one.

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You will notice that the 1/2 inch tube fits very neatly into the 3/4 inch tube. PEX is also very slippery stuff which will make this a self lubricating roller.

Cut a piece of the 3/4 inch (hacksaw is fine) tube slightly longer than the width of the roller. Lets say 3 7/8 inch or a little more. Cut a piece of the 1/2 inch about 4 inches or a little longer. If is it longer you may have to spread the forks on the winch stand slightly. Cheating like this is acceptable. Actually you will probably have to bend them out anyway because some dufus somewhere probably tightened the bolt too tight collapsing the forks and binding the roller which prompts you to be doing this modification in the first place.

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Get a 7/8 inch drill bit and drill the hole in the roller out to that size. A drill press makes it easyier. The roller material is sticky when hot so it will tend to grab and turn. Watch those hands. I held mine with a large pair of channel locks.

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Now press the 3/4 inch PEX tube into the roller. It is a perfect fit requiring a light tapping with a hammer to push it through. I just held the roller in one hand and the hammer in the other. The roller sleeve should protrude slightly and evenly from both sides of the roller. It will look like this when you are finished.

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Now slide the 1/2 inch spacer into the roller sleeve. It should protrude from the sleeve about like this.

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Now install the roller on the trailer. As I mentioned earlier you may have to spread the forks slightly to do this. Easily accomplished with the same pair of channel locks that you held the roller with during drilling.

Now is when you find that the 1/2 inch PEX water pipe in your house is not really 1/2 inch in diameter. Yep, ripped off again. It will take a little persuasion with the afformentioned hammer to get the bolt in. Do not tighten the bolt beyond a nice snug fit. The PEX is a very soft material and will collapse easily. Use a nylock self locking nut to secure the bolt.

What we have done is two things. We have created a roller sleeve that protrudes beyond the face of the roller. This sleeve will contact the support forks first and prevent the roller from binding up on them when it rolls. It acts as a thrust washer. Next we have made a spacer from the 1/2 inch PEX. This spacer will prevent the bolt from collapsing the forks and binding up the roller. It also makes a very nice self lubricating bearing.

So if you are not down in Key West partying with the racers, then you may as well head out to the boat shed and get on with making at least one thing better before your next trip.

Enjoy.

Dan

They called me back yesterday, $350.00-$400.00 painted to match.

When I talk to loadmaster yesterday they said they didn't want to sell it to me because they did not think it would do me any good since my bow eye was so low. I do like that set up though I wish it would work. I'm standing in water now when I crank it taught. It looks like with that set up it would've got me out of the water.

Maybe I just dont get it. My buddy has a Myco with the style above, mine has a roller. I don't see any advantage of either. As mentioned, the roller is a no brainer, just winch until it hits. The other just mark the cable.

Does someone see something as an advantage?

Thanks Fellas for the input:drink: Stoltz and a new winch strap tonight. [ATTACH=CONFIG]512666[/ATTACH]