They have the m3 and m3sc mixed up on that chart.

GPM - I was thinking the same thing.
do they have a kit that will work with the FAST system. I don't want a carb box?

You would use a carb hat to sit on top of the throttle body.

A 26 Daytona, I'm guessing that's where he's headed, it was just a thought.

yes this engine will go in my 26 Daytona...

Just one example of a carb hat, http://www.superiorairflow.com/carb-...-carb-hat.html

You'll want 1250 +

Yeah a carb hat like this one. And you may just want the full 1250hp at some point??

Dick - is that your engine?
I don't remember ever looking at it before.
what Procharger are you running?
Are there vanes inside that hat to direct the air into the TB?
The other option is to talk to Tom Earhardt.
Check will go out tomorrow.

Where is the best place to buy Procharger???

If you run a hat with the divider you'll want to make sure it's oriented at a right angle to the T-body. You can also run an elbow with a mono blade throttle body, or if height is a concern, the Edelbeock Pro-flo intake works well. I can set you up with the correct Procharger system for your application, and a complete coast guard approved efi system with the tuning. If you order a Procharger system from any Marine dealer before the 13th of december you will save an additional $500, as part of their annual holiday promotion.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]513056[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]513057[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]513058[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]513059[/ATTACH]

Can You PM me some costs please.

This might save you a couple dollars if you're interested. http://www.ebay.com/itm/281212724861...84.m1423.l2649

Yeah Steve that is my engine. You should stop out and take a look. Not sure why you didn't see it last trip out, but we can rectify that one very easily. I am running the M4SC. No vanes in the hat! Not spinning it very fast, but have seen 12.7 psi at 5950rpm. That wasn't at full throttle, so I may have been backing it up a bit.
I will let you know when your letter arrives.
Thanks
Dick

GPM yeah I saw that but if I am buying a kit how do I not get that part. Don't know if I can order the kit without that part.

I don't know that you're buying a kit so to speak, you need the blower, brackets, hoses and crossover. You don't want to run their fuel system, build your own to work with your Fast EFI. You should add bracing to their blower bracket because it will flex under load.

It's usually cheaper to buy a kit then piecing it together. All you need is a basic carb kit, with a hat instead of a box. They have a couple promotions right now that can save you $1400 over msrp, if you buy from any marine dealer before the 24th of December

Good for Randy. I must have missed him offering advice on this thread.

are you sure jim?

LOL :angry-smiley-038:

Haxby, do you have a preference on throttle bodies and efi stuff? I think I'm running out of carb on my 598 and thinking I might just make the change to efi over the winter...

Man Steve (Tink), you've caused quite a feedback storm here, bro! :circle: Congrats on that new little puddle jumper you got! :)

I have wanted to downsize for a few years. We can't go to lake Michigan because Patty is terrified of the potential for waves. If the boat starts to leave the water you can hear her over the open exhaust noise. She tolerates the speed thing for a while as long as it doesn't get too crazy.
We bought the Daytona to use on the local lakes and rivers ( mostly Hardy Pond ) I have had more fun in the first three outings with the Daytona than the Scarab has given in the last ten years. It just isn't a thrill anymore.
I bought the Daytona as a rather inexpensive ( relative ) entry into the CAT world. It needed a LOT of tender loving care and still needs more this winter. I just tend to do everything at once.
I am sick and tired of these engines with carbs. ( HP950's ) They don't have chokes so cold starting is a bit of a pain and I am tired of the compromise to get the engines to run safe on good days. ( not melt down ) And then they are fat on bad days.
It all depends on how the finances go in the next few months. Work has been crazy so money is good BUT I can't get stupid. I need to pressure test the headers that came with the Daytona ( I think they are leaking )
So the project for this winter at the very least is new engine hatch ( Eliminator Boats ), fix the gouges on the bottom of the sponsons where the previous owner ran into stuff ??? ( Who is good at these types of repairs - Should I just ship it back to Eliminator ? ), Redo the dash to accommodate a GPS speedo, Fuel injection, clean up and repair ALL of the wiring in the boat, A new -3 IMCO / BRAVO X upper ( in progress thanks to DICK TRYCE ) ...
Possible optional work ( IF the $ is there ) Add a Procharger.

I really don't want to go supercharged but staying NA just isn't feasible with my goals.
I would like to go up from 650 HP to 900 HP this winter and next year build a 598 long block that will produce 1300+ HP With a drive that might have a chance of handling the HP.
Some of this work I will be doing myself ( mechanical and electrical ) but a lot of it will be farmed out. ( Fiberglass and gel work )

Thanks Mark
I hope things work out for You Too.
Maybe in a few years I will go up to a 30 Daytona or Skater with twins.
A 30 should be able to handle Lake Michigan. ( Patty won't be boating in a few years ) The boat may get stored for a while but while she can still enjoy it and getting out of the house I will stick with the 26.
Insurance should be better with a few years CAT experience under my belt. Just VERY thankful that my insurance company is insuring the 26 ( only because my ins. rep went to bat for me and that I have been with them since 1976 )

BLACK BAHA - I was planning on using the F.A.S.T. system but also would like to hear what his choice would be.

Haxby sells the Holley stuff,

I've been looking at the fast stuff myself. Kinda nice that it comes in a kit... I think either way you go if you start from scratch and buy new it's gonna b 4g's when all is said and done.

I am just sick of screwing with carbs and cold starting. Could think of better things to use $4000 on.

EFI isn't always that simple

I am pretty good with computers and once it is dialed in I shouldn't have to mess with it often. almost instant starts, NO raw gas smell on bad air days idling. No watching the EGT's.

We've been running aftermarket EFI in our boats since the early 90s, it's nice, I like it better than a carb, it's come a long way in the last 20 or so years. The software can be a challenge.

Most of the throttle body's are similar in design. Once you get over about 850hp, the larger accufab stuff can be worth some HP though. I run the Holley EFI system on everything. In the entry level price range group, and even some of the more expensive systems, it is by far the most powerful, versatile, robust, and easy to use system out there. It's epoxy encapsulated, vibration and water proof, and coast guard certified. I have helped many people who have never used efi, get up and running with the Holley system.

It depends on what you're doing, but that's close. You can get into a complete Holley HP system for a BBC including absolutely everything right down to the intake manifold gaskets for about $3200, and use your existing ignition, or add $200 for distributor and coil.

What about using a crank trigger and LS style coil packs? Don't need the distributor at all if going dry sump.

Great info Haxby!