All 3 products 5200/4200/Life Seal are all polyurethane products which gives it bonding quality. What makes Life Seal different is the addition of silicone which is a sealer. So not only does it bond it seals.....WOW who would of thought to do that at the same time making it more user friendly.

Use what you will but quit humpin the teacher.

Because i'm not to old to learn i went and looked up life seal properties.I do have to say i will probably try it.:479:

http://www.dreamaway.net/Life-Seal-Spec-Sheet.pdf

One of the things I like most about the Life Seal is how easy is is to clean up around the edges compared to 4200/5200 that makes a mess. Another plus is that the tube does not harden after opening even 2-3 months later. I buy the chalk style tubes and do cap them between uses.

Again thanks for all of the input from everyone on this. Went to apple and bought a new phone and took some pictures of my transom dissection.

http://i1140.photobucket.com/albums/...psg95uzrjn.jpg

http://i1140.photobucket.com/albums/...psuzmrgkwb.jpg

http://i1140.photobucket.com/albums/...psapsn8kc3.jpg

Upper middle piece

http://i1140.photobucket.com/albums/...psii6uqpq9.jpg

Problem area but still not as bad as I thought. Pretty solid wood surrounding...
http://i1140.photobucket.com/albums/...pssr4ghiwe.jpg

http://i1140.photobucket.com/albums/...psznxb8o00.jpg

The only portion that had what could be called "rot" is the lower hole where the stud was badly corroded. You can see where the water traveled Down to the bottom of the transom wood, as it's black. The leak appears to have come from the steering pin seal and not the transom seal itself.

+1... yeeeep,,once you crack a 3m tube you better use it all up or pitch it in the garbage..and i second lifeseal is real easy yo clean up..

There is Life Seal and Life Caulk. I can't discern the difference. Any help?

Everybody has their opinions on what wood to use when you put it back together. Based on the wood you are taking out, anything would be an improvement. Look at all the knots and voids. Worse part is if it would have been sealed properly, it may have lasted. Take the time to seal all of your cut outs with epoxy or resin (whatever you are using). Be sure to seal the ends of the new wood several times and allow it to soak in before you install it.

Hey thanks! Do you think this can be partially replaced as all other wood is solid, or should I replace the complete transom? Going to use two sheets of 3/4 as factory, vinyl ester along with 1708.

Like I said, you have all winter-TAKE YOUR TIME AND DO IT RIGHT! do the whole transom, it is easier than trying to splice in the panels. Cut it all out. Use some cardboard and make a template. Cut and fit your first layer of wood. Once your layers are laminated, you most likely wont be able to install and remove it again. Generally takes a rubber mallet to persuade the finished piece into place. you will feel much better next summer knowing the only crack in your behind will be in your pants. The transom on an I/O is the most important part of the structure.