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-   -   Another 7.4l 330 hp mod question (https://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/general-q/305956-another-7-4l-330-hp-mod-question.html)

dandercam1 12-06-2013 04:16 PM

Once again this is a good example of a 330 build-up with dyno results and a budget outlined.

http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/g...l-results.html

Advantage 575 12-06-2013 08:36 PM


Originally Posted by demax990 (Post 4035682)
Hey guys new to the forum and loving it lots of great knowledge here. I have just picked up a 1994 Baja islander 208 with the 454 330hp version and want to do some up grades over the winter. I have done a whole bunch of reading on this subject including using the search. what I have planned so far is installing a msd 6al, pro billet dist, blaster coil, and wires (I already have these from another project) 496 ho exhaust manifolds, and rebuild the q jet. I also want to change the intake manifold what I am thinking is a edelbrock performer rpm air gap or whould I be better off with a performer only? any other recommendations? also will the 496 exhaust manifolds/risers work with my capt choice or will some mods need to be done? I have a extra 454 4 bolt main that I will redo for the boat..... one day......when I get time.......when I get the money................................

thanks guys

Max, Here's a build I did on my 330HP 1997 Baja 212. Boat is very similar to yours and it will have more speed and power than that haul should have. My 212 is my river boat here at home. Combo works excellent and I have over 350 HRS on it.

1st, it's a must you have to ditch the heads. I used Edelbrock Performer marine heads. Cam I used was a Hardin/Comp
grind they sell #295111008K (includes lifters) Duration @.50 224/224 lift w/ .566 lift & LC 112. You will need new pushrods with correct length (have your builder check). Comp magnum roller rockers, Intake Performer RPM air gap. Eddelbrock Performer marine carb. Also you are going to need more air so ditch the factory flame arrestor. I also used Harden for this. With the 208 Baja, you'll need to check your hatch clearance for the new arrestor. Lastly I use Stainless marine manifolds. They worked awesome on my Baja 212. I'm not sure on your 496 exhaust manifold ideas so I plead the 5th. For ignition I kept the stock electronic thunderbolt which works fine. I'm not sure what your 208 has. Hope this helps. FYI my dyno on this combo was 492 HP. So you can hammer it out of the hole because your drive will not handle it.

Advantage 575 12-06-2013 08:39 PM


Originally Posted by Advantage 575 (Post 4037840)
Max, Here's a build I did on my 330HP 1997 Baja 212. Boat is very similar to yours and it will have more speed and power than that haul should have. My 212 is my river boat here at home. Combo works excellent and I have over 350 HRS on it.

1st, it's a must you have to ditch the heads. I used Edelbrock Performer marine heads. Cam I used was a Hardin/Comp
grind they sell #295111008K (includes lifters) Duration @.50 224/224 lift w/ .566 lift & LC 112. You will need new pushrods with correct length (have your builder check). Comp magnum roller rockers, Intake Performer RPM air gap. Eddelbrock Performer marine carb. Also you are going to need more air so ditch the factory flame arrestor. I also used Harden for this. With the 208 Baja, you'll need to check your hatch clearance for the new arrestor. Lastly I use Stainless marine manifolds. They worked awesome on my Baja 212. I'm not sure on your 496 exhaust manifold ideas so I plead the 5th. For ignition I kept the stock electronic thunderbolt which works fine. I'm not sure what your 208 has. Hope this helps. FYI my dyno on this combo was 492 HP. So you can hammer it out of the hole because your drive will not handle it.

Sorry Maker's #46 bourbon is working on my brain: You CAN NOT HAMMER IT OUT OF THE HOLE!! You will break your drive

stimleck 12-06-2013 10:16 PM


Originally Posted by mike tkach (Post 4035893)
i have an opinion but i think il keep it to myself this time.

That's too bad because u speak facts!

demax990 12-07-2013 11:12 AM

thanks for all the great info guys

endeavour32 12-08-2013 01:53 PM

Save you're money and put into the 4 bolt block you have. The modifications that you listed in your first post will not do one thing for power, other than lighten your wallet.. You will not need to run anything other than the thunderbolt ignition system. You can change the curve buy swapping out the inanition module. What one you should use will be determined by your build.

You can certainly build a 400 Hp 330 but why if you have a better block. As you will read in the other 330 mod links that were posted, they were all completely overhauled. So if your going to overhaul an engine, do the 4 bolt block. Forged 454 cranks are a dime a dozen, as are the better rods. Do it right the first time.

I will suggest this- if you ever replace the heads is don't waste your money on edelbrock heads. They flow no better than stock heads. You can get Dart, AFR or Brodix for the same price and they will run circles around the edelbrock heads.

demax990 12-08-2013 05:42 PM

thanks endeavour32 that is what I was thinking as well. I am going to do some maintenance work on the boat (oil changes,plugs,wires,cap,rotor) and run it for the year. collect up some parts over the next 12 months and rebuild my 454 4 bolt main with all forged internals. going to go for the 500 hp mark with the fresh rebuild. after that all I will have to worry about is the drive. I don't think that the bravo 1 will like that hp if I start beating her up. thanks for the info guys this is one awsum fourm

dandercam1 12-08-2013 06:35 PM

I'm surprised that in all of the BBC build up threads on OSO I don't think I have ever seen anyone bring up Profiler when talking about cylinder heads. I have seen just enough dyno data to think they are worth serious consideration in the quest for a max horsepower combination. Here are some dyno results to back up this statement.

First is a 454, flat tappet hydraulic cam, Profiler 290cc heads.
http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles...e/viewall.html

Second, a 460ci, hydraulic roller cam, Profiler 290cc heads.
http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=323718

endeavour32 12-08-2013 10:31 PM

I wouldn't worry about your drive at all, assuming it's a bravo. Your boat is light and I seriously don't think your going to stress it enough that your going to break anything, even at 500 HP. The worst thing you can do is get big air and not throttle right; however, a 208 Islander isn't designed for that kind of boating, and won't last long. At that point its best to just get another boat.

Budman II 12-09-2013 04:58 PM


Originally Posted by endeavour32 (Post 4038700)
Save you're money and put into the 4 bolt block you have. The modifications that you listed in your first post will not do one thing for power, other than lighten your wallet.. You will not need to run anything other than the thunderbolt ignition system. You can change the curve buy swapping out the inanition module. What one you should use will be determined by your build.

You can certainly build a 400 Hp 330 but why if you have a better block. As you will read in the other 330 mod links that were posted, they were all completely overhauled. So if your going to overhaul an engine, do the 4 bolt block. Forged 454 cranks are a dime a dozen, as are the better rods. Do it right the first time.

I will suggest this- if you ever replace the heads is don't waste your money on edelbrock heads. They flow no better than stock heads. You can get Dart, AFR or Brodix for the same price and they will run circles around the edelbrock heads.

A set of AFR 265's would probably work quite well on a 454. You can get a set with the inconel exhaust valve upgrade for around $2100.


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