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-   -   Removing Corsa Mufflers Need Help Removing or Gut Them? (https://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/general-q/310763-removing-corsa-mufflers-need-help-removing-gut-them.html)

Budman II 04-10-2014 08:46 AM


Originally Posted by VoodooRob (Post 4104336)
Thought of this one, like taking a windshield out of a car. The issues are this 5200 is much more than a standard silicone and the way the 3 mounting studs are triangulated , if you could get behind there you run into the studs quickly.

Guitar string is what we always used to remove windshields back in the day. You pull it back and forth to "saw" through the sealant. Even though you might hit the studs, you may be able o get enough of it off to minimize gelcoat damage. Maybe use this method combined with a few of the others to get them off.

Are you sure they used 5200? That is generally something you use for a permanent installation, like a swim platform that is below the waterline. 4200 or just regular marine silicone is usually fine for thru hull tips. Also, if Formula didn't already do it for you, now would be a good time to get some resin and glass in the openings where the tips pass through the transom. That way, if you ever do develop a leak hear, the water will pass relatively harmlessly into the bilge instead of wicking into the core of your transom and rotting it out.

VoodooRob 04-10-2014 08:53 AM


Originally Posted by Budman II (Post 4104369)
Guitar string is what we always used to remove windshields back in the day. You pull it back and forth to "saw" through the sealant. Even though you might hit the studs, you may be able o get enough of it off to minimize gelcoat damage. Maybe use this method combined with a few of the others to get them off.

Are you sure they used 5200? That is generally something you use for a permanent installation, like a swim platform that is below the waterline. 4200 or just regular marine silicone is usually fine for thru hull tips. Also, if Formula didn't already do it for you, now would be a good time to get some resin and glass in the openings where the tips pass through the transom. That way, if you ever do develop a leak hear, the water will pass relatively harmlessly into the bilge instead of wicking into the core of your transom and rotting it out.

On the 5200 or 4200. Jeff from MTC called Formula factory and for a span of a few years they used 5200 on the mufflers, early to mid 2000's and my boat falls into early 2005 assembly. They have stopped using the 5200 on the mufflers just for the fact of removal, that's a no brainer. Now we have to get a solution to their bad choice, not the end of the world just trying to get this done without damaging the boat. Thanks for your suggestions.

Griff 04-10-2014 12:52 PM

Try this also http://www.marineformula.com/

Never used it, but heard it works well.

tpabayflyer 04-10-2014 02:27 PM


Originally Posted by VoodooRob (Post 4103979)
Good info on gutting them. There looks like a threaded rod in the middle of the "plate". Did you cut that off to separate the plate from the baffle assembly?[ATTACH=CONFIG]521761[/ATTACH]

I think I hit the center rod or bolt with the die grinder when I was in there... It was pretty rusty and came apart fast..... I had lots of rust inside and wanted to get rid of everything inside as it was in bad shape..... TBF

VoodooRob 04-11-2014 09:35 AM


Originally Posted by Griff (Post 4104522)
Try this also http://www.marineformula.com/

Never used it, but heard it works well.

Great, I will pass this on to the tech

VoodooRob 04-11-2014 09:36 AM


Originally Posted by tpabayflyer (Post 4104567)
I think I hit the center rod or bolt with the die grinder when I was in there... It was pretty rusty and came apart fast..... I had lots of rust inside and wanted to get rid of everything inside as it was in bad shape..... TBF

Rust Inside? Thought these were full stainless steel? For the $ they should be!

tpabayflyer 04-11-2014 11:03 PM

I bought my boat with no engine and the exhaust was still in the boat attached to the corsa system..... Obviously the stock 502 exhaust was gone but I was surprised to see rust in the diverters and tips.... I had to replace the diverted valves as there was not much left of them and it seems the pieces that broke off sat for years and caused the rust. But with some work and new parts it all cleaned up well! Salt water is nasty and I am a big believer in using salt away after every use..........

tpabayflyer 04-11-2014 11:06 PM

Also, stainless steel is not rust proof but more like rust resistant....I have seen plenty of stainless parts rust but it does take a lot longer......

av8rdat 08-28-2014 11:58 PM

I am planning to gut my silencer tips on a 28ZX tomorrow with a plasma cutter. I have one tip off and want to see how it does in the shop. I am hoping to do the other 3 while on the boat. Anyone have any experience with this??

COOPS 08-29-2014 06:30 AM


Originally Posted by av8rdat (Post 4180010)
I am planning to gut my silencer tips on a 28ZX tomorrow with a plasma cutter. I have one tip off and want to see how it does in the shop. I am hoping to do the other 3 while on the boat. Anyone have any experience with this??

Don't do it!!!
You can buy nice non-baffle tips for what you can sell your current ones for. The screw you see in the middle is not holding the structure in. The structure / baffles are welded to the shell. I did it once and will never do it again!


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