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Originally Posted by onesickpantera
(Post 4117598)
You dont have to swap them. There are three posts on the back of the switch. One has 12 volts all the time, one will have 12 volts when you turn the key to on and the third will have 12 volts when turned to start. Check the first post with a test light when the key is turned to on(and make sure the wire is connected).
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Originally Posted by FIXX
(Post 4117633)
OK BACK TO THE BOX....If you test for power their at all 3 fuse leads on both sides,,all those leads are triggered from the ecm...the landyard safety tether that goes to your wrise also goes to the ecm which powers up the ecm..check the circuit brakers and what ever side of the tether feeds power to the tether or lantyard to power up the fuel side of the ecm that provides power to the fuel pump..like i said some boats have more then one fuse panel..
if it all checks out either your ignition module is bad or your ecm took a crap.. |
Is your boat on a lift at LOTO? If so what MM?
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Originally Posted by dmaxximus
(Post 4118351)
I even ran power to it (not a great idea) while cranking and no start. Communication issue for certain :confused:
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Originally Posted by onesickpantera
(Post 4118407)
I didn't catch this the first time. If you powered the pump with 12 volts and it turned on and still wouldn't start there are other issues. Did you unplug the main harness and check for corrosion?
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Any updates?
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Originally Posted by onesickpantera
(Post 4122609)
Any updates?
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Ok gents back at it again and down to no power to starter relay or fuse. Maybe a bad ECM on memorial weekend when I can't get one would be just great. F@ck
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Originally Posted by onesickpantera
(Post 4122609)
Any updates?
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Crazy expensive. That would be a $30 part if it was not for a boat.
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