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Originally Posted by BUP
(Post 4649414)
just to let you know the engine was changed out under full warranty with very little engine hours and has a different engine serial number than original engine. I do know the current engine serial number thou.
Anyways so what temps is the engine running at since you mention normal ? different engines have different normal running temps. IMO your O 2 sensor (s) possible are getting contaminated by something going thru the exhaust and or possible by water and or condensation. |
Yes they CP / Hardin has that since 2011 for sale if not a tad longer. I do not know any longevity / results of that system they are selling so I can not comment for that cat eliminator.
For the record I can not do that install nor remove the cats FROM a EC engine. EC = emission control. The reasons why is because all that is federal mandated and I hold a couple of LIC and Marine dealer LIC and even a boat builder LIC. Kind of the same results as a auto dealer LIC removing a cat from a state register auto thats street driven -- its a huge fine and can mean any LIC pulled. I am not risking any of that. UNLESS the original app is over 500 hp from OEM stock build then I can do it. See the first thing when a OEM dealer repowers a boat using OEM engines and related parts - that OEM wants HULL ID and engine serial number. That OEM will and can only sell you the required federal law engines if its a EC engine from the start / when it was a new built boat. You have to provide a hull ID to get OEM engines for the past 9 years now, If one does not provide an hull for a repower - one does not get that OEM engine. Just saying. Things changed 9 years ago for all marine engines under 500 hp actually for all boats. I have a story and I think it came from advice on wakeworld from a fellow wakeboard owner. He brought his boat in a month ago to me and self inflicted about 7 k worth of damage on his CAT engine / wake boat. One has to watch out for the advice one receives. There is good advice and really bad advice out there for the taking. Just saying. |
Originally Posted by BUP
(Post 4663731)
Yes they CP / Hardin has that since 2011 for sale if not a tad longer. I do not know any longevity / results of that system they are selling so I can not comment for that cat eliminator.
For the record I can not do that install nor remove the cats FROM a EC engine. EC = emission control. The reasons why is because all that is federal mandated and I hold a couple of LIC and Marine dealer LIC and even a boat builder LIC. Kind of the same results as a auto dealer LIC removing a cat from a state register auto thats street driven -- its a huge fine and can mean any LIC pulled. I am not risking any of that. UNLESS the original app is over 500 hp from OEM stock build then I can do it. See the first thing when a OEM dealer repowers a boat using OEM engines and related parts - that OEM wants HULL ID and engine serial number. That OEM will and can only sell you the required federal law engines if its a EC engine from the start / when it was a new built boat. You have to provide a hull ID to get OEM engines for the past 9 years now, If one does not provide an hull for a repower - one does not get that OEM engine. Just saying. Things changed 9 years ago for all marine engines under 500 hp actually for all boats. I have a story and I think it came from advice on wakeworld from a fellow wakeboard owner. He brought his boat in a month ago to me and self inflicted about 7 k worth of damage on his CAT engine / wake boat. One has to watch out for the advice one receives. There is good advice and really bad advice out there for the taking. Just saying. |
Why remove the cats - ? There is no power gain there - cars with 600 hp and way above have cats with no power loss plus if you board or surf behind the boat U WANT CATS. You are not sucking down as much of the harmful emissions then. Thats the reason they are in place for health concern for boarders cause people have died in the past from the toxic emissions. Why do you think all wake board boats since basically 2006 have cats ?? when they were not even federal mandated ? Cleaner air behind the boat so people can play and the manu s do not have more lawsuits from emission related deaths.
Also so much easier working on boats from a health stand point with cats. At the end of the day easier on lungs if you know what I mean IF YOU HAVE KIDS whom board or play behind the boat LEAVE THE CATS installed. I promise |
Originally Posted by BUP
(Post 4663733)
Why remove the cats - ? There is no power gain there - cars with 600 hp and way above have cats with no power loss plus if you board or surf behind the boat U WANT CATS. You are not sucking down as much of the harmful emissions then. Thats the the reason reason they are in palce for health concern for boarders cause people have died in the past. Why do you think all wake board boats since basically 2006 have cats ?? when they were not even federal mandated ? Cleaner air behind the boat so people can play behind and the manu s do have get anymore lawsuits from wrongful deaths. Also so much easier working on boats from a health stand point with cats. At the end of the day easier on lungs of you know what I mean
IF YOU HAVE KIDS whom board or play behind the boat LEAVE THE CATS installed. I promise |
the listing for race apps on the CAT eliminator is so CARB and Emission laws do not get on the sellers nor manu back causing them to not sell it nor fines. Kind of like the surgeon general that stamps all boxes of cigs stating they cause cancer but still allows the sales of them for making my point.
The eliminator is going to do ZERO anything for u leaving the cats in there trying to fix real issues that the engine side is producing. That set up the cat eliminator is for one is whom wants to remover the cats that has a perfect running engine or issue with the cats themselves only. Take your boat in to a real shop to get it fixed and have them run the engine serial number for possible recals and updates and service bulletins to further correct procedure whatever applies to your engine and manu date code / serial number. Wake world is not not a boat repair facility along with the many darts thrown for ur issues. I doubt that 99.99 percent people on most public forums even know any current fault codes onan EC marine engine . Also Diacom is not the best scan tool to use for Mercruiser EC engines especially with DTS. Yes currently Diacom got G3 updated but still Merc g3 scan scan tool is the best for MERC cat engines especially if one has DTS cats |
Are you saying you have FAULT CODES 48 and 50 ???
I do not recall any 48 or 50 Fault ID codes for Merc cat PCM 09 or Merc PCM 112 based control engines. Are you sure you have the most current scan tool thats up to date for Merc cat engines ? I do recall fault ID # 49 and # 51 but IF I recall correctly 48 and 50 Fault ID codes is not real fault codes for Merc cat engines. G3 codes for Merc ? With that said I am going off the top of my head but do not remember 48 and 50 fault ID codes ever period. I would have to look that up to be 100 percent sure but I am 98 percent sure they 48 / 50 are not faults. I do not have any of that info handy currently to make sure I am 100 percent correct. With that said you have 48 and 50 fault ID codes ?? or am I misreading your post above ? |
Originally Posted by BUP
(Post 4663760)
Are you saying you have FAULT CODES 48 and 50 ???
I do not recall any 48 or 50 Fault ID codes for Merc cat PCM 09 or Merc PCM 112 based control engines. Are you sure you have the most current scan tool thats up to date for Merc cat engines ? I do recall fault ID # 49 and # 51 but IF I recall correctly 48 and 50 Fault ID codes is not real fault codes for Merc cat engines. G3 codes for Merc ? With that said I am going off the top of my head but do not remember 48 and 50 fault ID codes ever period. I would have to look that up to be 100 percent sure but I am 98 percent sure they 48 / 50 are not faults. I do not have any of that info handy currently to make sure I am 100 percent correct. With that said you have 48 and 50 fault ID codes ?? or am I misreading your post above ? |
he reported it cured it for now but in the spring will know more with more run times as how I took his post.. most of the time something is causing the o2 to possible fail -- not the o2 just failing because. Yes that can happen as well. but the odds are something is causing the o2 fail. Read post 23 and 33 of mine...... also connections / harnesses as well can be in the mix
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Originally Posted by trdehmer
(Post 4650212)
OK, according to Mercruiser:
"All the faults you mention below are for optional sensors, some are not installed on most boats. Basically the engine is looking for sensors that are not installed and don't need to be there. You can ignore or silence these faults within the vesselview mobile app. Dealers have service manuals and software that lists faults for the engine. The idle RPM for your engine seems normal. If you have some of these sensors installed, for example a smartcraft style fuel tank sender, have a dealer diagnose the sender and circuit for problems. Thanks, James MerCruiser Consumer Support" |
Originally Posted by BUP
(Post 4650196)
depends if you have those or not and if you have DTS as well ??
^^^^^^^ Related to the post above # 50 ^^^^^^^ |
Originally Posted by BUP
(Post 4663791)
he reported it cured it for now but in the spring will know more with more run times as how I took his post.. most of the time something is causing the o2 to possible fail -- not the o2 just failing because. Yes that can happen as well. but the odds are something is causing the o2 fail. Read post 23 and 33 of mine...... also connections / harnesses as well can be in the mix
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RICH CONDITIONS
Yes if the poppet is not working correctly allows to much water thru at idle and tad above. Also a bad O2 sensor or one that is not reporting correctly. a T stat not working correctly also the coolant temp sensor a cold running engine makes for rich conditions also the MAP sensor can make rich running engine. Also ignition components and spark plugs can make for rich conditions -- misfires and or weak or bad ign. parts. fuel injectors leaking or stuck open - also incorrect signals for injector pulse width - that can even be voltage related. An issue with the o2 surely can I thought you scanned the engine for the codes - using diacom |
Originally Posted by BUP
(Post 4663797)
RICH CONDITIONS
Yes if the poppet is not working correctly allows to much water thru at idle and tad above. Also a bad O2 sensor or one that is not reporting correctly. a T stat not working correctly also the coolant temp sensor a cold running engine makes for rich conditions also the MAP sensor can make rich running engine. Also ignition components and spark plugs can make for rich conditions -- misfires and or weak or bad ign. parts. fuel injectors leaking or stuck open - also incorrect signals for injector pulse width - that can even be voltage related. An issue with the o2 surely can I thought you scanned the engine for the codes - using diacom |
Got my can adapter today and showed the following: 322 stbd cylinder bank fuel trim too lean 02controlITermLowStbd 129 tps sensors failed to adapt at engine shutdown Tps2 ecm NoAdapt 321 stbd cylinder bank fuel too rich 02controlITermLowPort I think I got the tps because I turned the ignition to “on” for a bit without the battery perko switched over and got a fault for low voltage “failed startup”. This code didn’t pop up till after that. PCM calibration id MY10p5ACC_8M0099133_004 i have 2 o2 sensors brand new from my last boat that I will be putting in regardless and probably 2 more because I found a good deal on some new ones. I noticed in the rinda the motor is named “starboard”. This is why I am probably getting confused as to which side the o2 sensor may have failed. Is it the motor “backward” due to being a v drive, only caught this because all the sensors on the actual port side of the boat say stb sensor and vice versa. |
Told you as a real SCAN of the engine you were not going to SEE Fault ID # 48 and # 50 nor ever will. I was 98 percent sure of that one in my post above. Like I said I thought you already scanned it with your diacom. YOU HAVE NOW.
the scan / faults all read if one is / facing the front of the engine. The engine and ECM has no idea how the engine is facing - heck even if it was upside down - that still applies the same, -- heck I scan engines on engine stands and spin that engine stand 180 and all over the place, nothing changes. Just saying |
Last time out in Oct, boat was fine. Fired her up on the trailer today, and have an active fault.
2007 525efi, port active fault: "trim ckt lo" any ideas? thx! |
Originally Posted by imartin
(Post 4665917)
Last time out in Oct, boat was fine. Fired her up on the trailer today, and have an active fault.
2007 525efi, port active fault: "trim ckt lo" any ideas? thx! |
you have to post your engine serial NUMBER to get correct info.
All codes are related to ones set up . For Ghost codes they are related to not having that sensor . and or connection / connected / app in the set up so it defaults to a code. This is why one needs to know their set up and engine serial number, This helps knowing if its a real code or a ghost code persay.. Also any OEM Merc dealer could look at this for you as well. |
Wish I was closer to you BUP, would have you handle everything. My buddy speaks highly of your work. For the engine with related code, its OM956832. Thanks.
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Thanks for the good words. Im always just one road trip away but by appointment only. I always have boats in from all over and at times completely covered up. . Anyways for this exact fault code there should be NO guardian. The fault itself TRIM CKT LO = TRIM SENSOR CIRCUIT LOW = trim circuit open and that can = sensor issue and or wire issue and or connection issue..
How are you seeing this fault -- scan tool or smartcraft display ?? If scan tool what brand of scan tool ? |
Im seeing the code via SmartCraft display. Again, just on trailer. Have not run boat with this code showing. Boat is at Canyon Lake, between Austin and San Antonio if you ever make trips that way from your neck of woods.
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Thanks This is a twin engine boat correct ?? I would scan the engines. Clear the code and see what happens and of course scan again in due time.. If code comes back (prob will ) then look at what I posted above for the possible fix.
I have 2 boats in now from Austin and 2 from the Tulsa area and 1 from New Mexico and 1 guy whom just moved from Florida. . . The rest are within a 100 mile rad plus the regular loco s. . Our weather stinks lately - hard to get anything done as of late. I was up in Indy Mid Dec for 2 boats there.. Min once per month - every month, I travel all over from being hired.. Basically 600 Sci and down.- The 496 seems like everyone hits me up. I see alot of wakeboats as well. LS / LSA / GEN V direct injection and Ford Raptor.. I like that because its not the same old same old plus its new Tech as well. Anyways just thinking out loud, |
Yes, twin engine application. Glad to see you are staying busy! Maybe PM me if you are headed down 35 to the Austin area, would have you do your scan. For now, will see what I can do in the garage with nothing more than my hands, lol. No scanner available, etc. Not sure I trust the mechanics in the area with my setup. They just dont have the experience or exposure to the Mercury Racing lineup.
Appreciate your replies/comments. |
So for my Scorpion 350 DTS issue I put in 4 new o2 sensors, I found a great deal on 2 and had two new ones lying around. I noticed both stb side sensors were the original oem, and that is the side where the code was being thrown. After that and new plugs I ran it on the fake lake for 30 plus minutes from idle to 2500, it went into closed loops as expected on engine heat up. NO CODES!! But I know Im not out of woods because don’t emission vehicles have to “cycle” and then do a self check and then that’s when you would infact get a code, ie x amount of start ups and certain rpm range for certain periods of time, like a car?? But it is not instantly throwing codes like it was before.... |
New here, awesome thread. I have a 496 8.1 375 mercury inboard. Code 9
I have a fault code 9 pop up only when I run around 30 mph. I let off and sometimes it goes away so quick I don’t even get a chance to read the code on screen. I have the smart safe 3. Can someone plz tell me what that code means. Closest dealer is 2 hrs away. Plus can’t get it in until 2 weeks from now |
Originally Posted by imartin
(Post 4666613)
Yes, twin engine application. Glad to see you are staying busy! Maybe PM me if you are headed down 35 to the Austin area, would have you do your scan. For now, will see what I can do in the garage with nothing more than my hands, lol. No scanner available, etc. Not sure I trust the mechanics in the area with my setup. They just dont have the experience or exposure to the Mercury Racing lineup.
Appreciate your replies/comments. |
fault # 9 is
You are in Guardian mode - aka protection mode - aka power reduction mode and you need to quit running your engine because some shape or form the engine is telling that person stop we are in protection MODE - you have issues with other FAULTS and or sensors and or connections and or pressures and or voltage and or whatever. first place to start is your warning horn is that active / working - do you hear it at start up and do you hear it when fault # 9 shows up ?? if not IT NEEDS TO BE WORKING cause there will be a zillion faults for that one alone. And then one needs to see what other fault(s) that are possible taking place. Good luck and have to mention about a 2 week wait time for this time of the year ---- you are very lucky its only 2 weeks. |
Maybe you can help me
Originally Posted by BUP
(Post 4120071)
Yes and no about normal codes. Depending on your 8.1 app. Do you have smartcraft gauges - do have DTS - do have a catalyst 496 . Would need to know serial numbers of your motors to determine what you have as far as the 8.1. I will say this again and again anytime you take your boat in for service or buy parts from a OEM dealer the first thing they need to know is what is the serial # of the engines. Why because a 2001 496 is totally different set up than a 2010 496. Serial number breaks determine as were parts have change and different setups of that same engine. This holds true for all marine engines.
With that said I can not speak 100 % if your codes are normal or not for the first 4 codes not knowing exactly how your 496's are set up exactly from the factory or boatbuilder. Anyways most of the times on a standard 496 especially the earlier models without DTS (digital throttle & shift) these codes are meaning less. CODE 179 Starboard EMCT - is Starboard exhaust manifold temperature HIGH. Could be sensor or a cooling problem. I am marine factory OEM trained now for 25 years. Just in case any needs to know where my logic comes from. . |
Yes it beeps solid
Originally Posted by BUP
(Post 4690444)
fault # 9 is
You are in Guardian mode - aka protection mode - aka power reduction mode and you need to quit running your engine because some shape or form the engine is telling that person stop we are in protection MODE - you have issues with other FAULTS and or sensors and or connections and or pressures and or voltage and or whatever. first place to start is your warning horn is that active / working - do you hear it at start up and do you hear it when fault # 9 shows up ?? if not IT NEEDS TO BE WORKING cause there will be a zillion faults for that one alone. And then one needs to see what other fault(s) that are possible taking place. Good luck and have to mention about a 2 week wait time for this time of the year ---- you are very lucky its only 2 weeks. It all started when my niece took it from around half throttle to almost full throttle all at once. the pre check always checks good when key is first turned on. It it sounds like I might be looking for a needle in a hay stack if there is several things it could be such as sensors, and loose wires. |
Originally Posted by 496.8.1
(Post 4690575)
thank you for your quick reply, and for sharing your knowledge. Yes it beeps solid and loud when it senses fault. Like I say only does it around 30 It all started when my niece took it from around half throttle to almost full throttle all at once. the pre check always checks good when key is first turned on. It it sounds like I might be looking for a needle in a hay stack if there is several things it could be such as sensors, and loose wires. |
Have to say in your case I am not trying to pin point your problem without hands - eyes - ears and proper tools on your engine to properly find out and fix correctly whats wrong. Like I said you have issues as to why a solid horn is going off. As a TOTAL GUESS on my part --- possible would be water pressure too LOW that is one issue but in most cases there is more than one issue with used boats. The older the boats always seems more things need to be address especially with marine efi engines.
A solid horn is a HARD WARNING. On the forums if one would have that magic crystal ball to fix marine apps and pin point the exact problems would be wonderful but that does not exist. It is very POSSIBLE if you keep running your boat that your 2 week wait might turn into 2 years because of engine damage. If in fact you really do have a low water pressure warning and or more faults taking place -- hence - the guardian mode - possible you can overheat the engine inwhich can become very expensive . You are located where ? in the USA ?. IMO best for you is to take your app into a very good OEM certified shop. This is prob the best advice instead of throwing darts at it hoping it gets fixed. That is a total waste of time and money. Im in Texas if a fix is needed. Good luck |
Originally Posted by BUP
(Post 4690634)
Have to say in your case I am not trying to pin point your problem without hands - eyes - ears and proper tools on your engine to proper find out and fix correctly whats wrong. Like I said you have issues as to why a solid horn is going off. As a TOTAL GUESS on my part --- possible would be water pressure too LOW that is one issue but in most case their is more than issue.
A solid horn is a HARD WARNING. On the forums if one would have that magic crystal ball to fix marine apps and pin point the exact problems would be wionderful but that does not exist. It is very POSSIBLE if you keep running your boat that your 2 week wait might turn into 2 years because of engine damage If if in fact you really do have a low water pressure warning and or more faults taking place -- hence - the guardian mode - you can overheat the engine that can become very expensive . You are located where ? in the USA ?. IMO best opinion for you need is to take your app into a very good OEM certified shop. This is prob the best advice instead of throwing darts at it hoping it gets fixed. That is total waste of time and money. Im in Texas if a fix is needed. Good luck I actually really need to go see a friend in Houston this summer thx, I just got boat. I don’t know if any shop here is worth a crap or not. It hasnt ran hot, temp gages stay the same or are you referring to water pressure as in propulsion pressures? i have been doing so reading on this, I need to check my drive unit lube. I just found a mercury app that claims to be capable of me being able to send engine vitals and numbers to my mechanics phone. If if this is possible, and you think it could give you info you need. Would you mind if we swapped numbers and I could pay you through Apple Pay or pay pal im fairly decent at working on what ever I need to fix, im just totally new to inboards. I |
Originally Posted by 496.8.1
(Post 4690768)
i am in Tennessee, what part of tx are u located? I do rode trips, I actually really need to go see a friend in Houston this summer thx, I just got boat. I don’t know if any shop here is worth a crap or not. It hasnt ran hot, temp gages stay the same or are you referring to water pressure as in propulsion pressures? i have been doing so reading on this, I need to check my drive unit lube. I just found a mercury app that claims to be capable of me being able to send engine vitals and numbers to my mechanics phone. If if this is possible, and you think it could give you info you need. Would you mind if we swapped numbers and I could pay you through Apple Pay or pay pal im fairly decent at working on what ever I need to fix, im just totally new to inboards. I |
Thanks but really hard to properly fix boats over the phone and net. most used boats I find have multiple things need addressing. Also it would be wise to water test the boat - run it thru its paces to help find issue(s) and water test fully after the fix ( all done with proper tools and testing methods - That way its a 4 sure fixed boat when it leaves. . Plus water testing and under load of the engine is a great way to help find other issues and if any water leaks. .
Im in the Dallas area of Texas. |
Code Mercruiser 370 tdi
Hello
Do you know what Mercruiser 370 diesel tai code are? STBD Sys Fault 70 ????? |
Fault codes
Originally Posted by BUP
(Post 4346245)
Can not believe the service manual is online. Merc has been trying to get rid of all this little by little online service info as it really is copy right infringement as well. Anyways kind of not fair for the dealers who have to spend thousands for special tools and manuals and so on when a person or a do it your selfer who basically spends nothing has it at there finger tips for free. Just saying as we all like free stuff including myself.
Currently and coming within a year max - the 02 sensors pre and post are not the same. Post (rear) CAT 02 sensors are now real wideband 02 sensors. Your app being an older CAT app all 4 - 02 sensors are the exact same . just some added info It is very important that the CAT and its space within maintains the correct amount heat on both ends - not too cold nor not too hot. For the CAT to work correctly it needs heat of 600 min to 800 degrees. With that said engine cooling is now more important than ever. Make sure your check balls or check valves - one for each manifold and one for each riser (located in bottom of each) are not restricted nor stuck or broken apart. Also make sure the poppet valve is the same and working correctly. I have a 2011 8.2 with smart craft crap I drove the boat for about an hour then hung out for about 2 then restarted the boat and got a fault code EA 118 engine sensor failure I’m thinking IAC valve but not sure I can’t find the fault codes any where any info would be greatly appreciated |
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