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Engine shudders and sometimes stalls when Bravo 1 engages fwd/rev

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Engine shudders and sometimes stalls when Bravo 1 engages fwd/rev

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Old 11-01-2014, 05:55 PM
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Originally Posted by SB
Here's a good link for the IFR mod:

http://racingfuelsystems.myfunforum.....php?f=25&t=18

Jmarkaudio (Mark Whittner) is a pretty serious carb tuner. Won a few times at the recent carb shoot outs at BLP (Bo Laws Performance)]
That link would have saved me some typing !
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Old 11-01-2014, 05:58 PM
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Thanks SB and MT

Just found and read that about 20 minutes ago. Heading out now to see if I can find some 10-32 (for TSRs since I noticed that 1 of the carbs has them ALL removed, the other carb they're Ø0.085") and 6-32 (IFRs) brass set screws.

Steve
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Old 11-01-2014, 05:59 PM
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But, overall, it will cost you more time. Time well spent though. Cruise the forum.

Lot's more. He and 'Tuner' over there - amongst some others, are very sharp carb guys. They aren't carb shops, so no worry on wondering if BS or not.

No boat stuff, but lots to learn and digest.
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Old 11-02-2014, 08:37 AM
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Originally Posted by HTMSteve
Thanks SB and MT

Just found and read that about 20 minutes ago. Heading out now to see if I can find some 10-32 (for TSRs since I noticed that 1 of the carbs has them ALL removed, the other carb they're Ø0.085") and 6-32 (IFRs) brass set screws.

Steve
Originally Posted by SB
But, overall, it will cost you more time. Time well spent though. Cruise the forum.

Lot's more. He and 'Tuner' over there - amongst some others, are very sharp carb guys. They aren't carb shops, so no worry on wondering if BS or not.

No boat stuff, but lots to learn and digest.
I had my carb done by a big name company. After sending it back a few times and some more money I was about ready to give up. That's when I found out racingfuelsystems web site on here from SB. I read it almost every day. I can say every thing I have tried from that site has worked! But I must say I have to read some post 4 or 5 times. I am a little slow sometimes.
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Old 11-02-2014, 08:40 AM
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Originally Posted by fbc25el
I had my carb done by a big name company. After sending it back a few times and some more money I was about ready to give up. That's when I found out racingfuelsystems web site on here from SB. I read it almost every day. I can say every thing I have tried from that site has worked! But I must say I have to read some post 4 or 5 times. I am a little slow sometimes.
I gotta sign up over there. looks like some good info there.
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Old 11-04-2014, 08:55 AM
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I started the process of moving the .040 IFR s from top of metering block to bottom, 1 carb is done and the other tonight.

On this same carb I have checked and centered butterflies, then fully closed rears. On the primaries, I have the idle speed screw turned in 3.25 turns to get the square transfer slot showing but I think idle will be WAY high...we'll see.

As I mentioned earlier, one carb body has transfer slot orifices removed completely (all 4) and the othe carb has them but they appear to have been enlarged and are not consistent.

I plan to correct both carbs with drilled set screws but what size hole should I start with? Was thinking of starting at .063 and see how that goes. If anyone can save me time and provide a closer size based on experience, I'm ALL ears!

Thanks,
Steve

Last edited by HTMSteve; 11-04-2014 at 08:57 AM. Reason: forgot to specify transfer slot orifice
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Old 11-04-2014, 09:14 AM
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Can you post a picture I don't understand about the transfer slot orifices being removed?
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Old 11-04-2014, 09:31 AM
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I think you are talking about the transfer slot restrictor . The brass set screw in the main body? Mine are .070 in a 1050 dominator.
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Old 11-04-2014, 09:54 AM
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Yes, I call them an orifice...the little brass bushings that come installed from Holley in the main body and are visible once the bowls and metering blocks are removed. 1 carb had them removed and holes left were .110 and the other had all orifices still there and were roughly .085.

Did you experiment with yours? Larger or smaller than as delivered? My carbs are 1050s too...8082-3 build date mid 2013.

Last edited by HTMSteve; 11-04-2014 at 09:21 PM. Reason: changed build date from 2003 to 2013
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Old 11-04-2014, 10:31 AM
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Yes. Mine came with .076 and I went down to .070. I also went from .040 to a .038 idle jet. You also want to keep your throttle plates open the same amount. Is this 1 to 1 linkage. I was in Orlando Fl. this summer and stoped by Bo Laws and got some external linkage and made mine 1-1. Those guys are pretty sharp also
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