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Any wlders in the house?
I'm not a welder, so don't know if this can be fixed. Wish I had noticed this when I first bought these tips. Apparently they stripped two of the three studs when removing them. They appear to be fubar'ed beyond fixing with a die, and I don't really have room to spin it on the stud with the pipe next to it. I am hoping that the original stud could be cut off and a stainless bolt or stud can be welded on in its place. Sound doable? If anyone has a better idea to fix this, let it fly! Going to talk to a friend of mine who works at a stainless fabrication shop tomorrow. Sometimes you can't win for losing!
http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/...612_221225.jpg |
I would give a tap and die set a chance.
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Originally Posted by f_inscreenname
(Post 4137128)
I would give a tap and die set a chance.
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Rig something cheap and dirty. Simple as a pipe large enough to hold the die with a couple screws to hold the die, and long enough to clear the exhaust tip. Drill a hole the the pipe end to run a rod thru to turn your new die holder. Think man think. :) or just turn the die with channel locks. The threads are cut. You are just going to clean them up. Won't take much to run a die down it
But that thread is pretty bad. If you can weld in a new bolt/ stud I'd go that route myself |
I'd just chase the threads with a die. You can turn it with a socket, open end or box wrench or a crescent wrench. Use lube like 3 in 1 oil. Even if you have to undersize 1 size a lot less work and money then welding on new studs. Plus, welding on new studs will most likely discolor the chrome on the outside bezel.
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i would cut it and leave a inch sticking out and tig on a existing bolt..
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Cut them off and then just use 4200 on the flange to mount them
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12 point socket 1-1/16 or 1-1/8" and extension with a rachet. If there is no meat left thread it to something metric...
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Originally Posted by US1 Fountain
(Post 4137135)
Rig something cheap and dirty. Simple as a pipe large enough to hold the die with a couple screws to hold the die, and long enough to clear the exhaust tip. Drill a hole the the pipe end to run a rod thru to turn your new die holder. Think man think. :) or just turn the die with channel locks. The threads are cut. You are just going to clean them up. Won't take much to run a die down it
But that thread is pretty bad. If you can weld in a new bolt/ stud I'd go that route myself Not real sure about relying on 4200 to bond it on. If I were to do that, I would leave the studs on there to help locate and hold the tips in place. I would feel better having a nut on the end of it. Thanks for the suggestions, guys! |
I'd just cut the studs flush, then drill new holes then use stainless bolts. If you want it to look nice get an Allen head bolt.
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Use a hex die with deepwell socket
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Originally Posted by jonesyfxr
(Post 4137195)
i'd just cut the studs flush, then drill new holes then use stainless bolts. If you want it to look nice get an allen head bolt.
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Originally Posted by Budman II
(Post 4137127)
I'm not a welder, so don't know if this can be fixed. Wish I had noticed this when I first bought these tips. Apparently they stripped two of the three studs when removing them. They appear to be fubar'ed beyond fixing with a die, and I don't really have room to spin it on the stud with the pipe next to it. I am hoping that the original stud could be cut off and a stainless bolt or stud can be welded on in its place. Sound doable? If anyone has a better idea to fix this, let it fly! Going to talk to a friend of mine who works at a stainless fabrication shop tomorrow. Sometimes you can't win for losing!
http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/...612_221225.jpg |
+1
What fix said |
the reason i said to leave a inch sticking out so you dont have to buff the lip after welding a new stud on..if you cut it off flush you wil have to buff the discoloration out which will take more time and work,,i could have that fixed in about 10 minutes..
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Originally Posted by FIXX
(Post 4137284)
the reason i said to leave a inch sticking out so you dont have to buff the lip after welding a new stud on..if you cut it off flush you wil have to buff the discoloration out which will take more time and work,,i could have that fixed in about 10 minutes..
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cut it tig a new stud on
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I understand that could be done .But (1) won't it discolor and require additional labor to polish and (2) with as little as they hold, what is wrong with just cleaning up the threads .Snug is all they need...As someone said ,you could pretty much 4200 them on. once it's clamped to hose. Personally I would want the fasteners ...the fasteners are already there, just buggered up
Originally Posted by weldcrane
(Post 4137446)
cut it tig a new stud on
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Put a new nut in a press and squish it a little to oblong the hole and crank it on.
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Update: Got R Done!!
Ended up buying a hexagonal die that allowed me to put a one inch socket on it. Much easier than cutting and welding. Good to go! Thanks for all the suggestions, guys. Maybe it will help the next guy with this problem.
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If you use a stainless nut, make sure to put some anitsieze on. It will keep the stainless from galling.
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Y'all are making this too darn hard! The easy answer is DUCT TAPE IT!
Geez! :D |
Originally Posted by Pilotpete
(Post 4137743)
Y'all are making this too darn hard! The easy answer is DUCT TAPE IT!
Geez! :D |
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