Mini Starter
 

Interested in changing my starter to a newer version mini high torque, My original Mercruiser part # is 863007A1. I can't seem to find a Marine mini high torque replacement for the. 502 magnum.
Has anyone used one of these?

Everything on the marine side for bottom mount is now PG260 G Delco type starter. (mini starter) and so much easier to change out

OEM Mercruiser part # is 50863007A1 retails for $220

BRP 3860566

Sierra 18-6275

Others are Arco, Pro Torque, API in which SEI owns now, Stay away from MES and some really cheap ones on the net. On the net you will find them for 54 bucks and up. API has been very reliable in the past.

Thanks for the info.. I think i'll go with the API 1099HD

Your welcome and I am dealer for API / SEI as well, if needed. I know the old owner of API - Richard personally but like I said he sold to SEI but still works at API. He was always looking at the quality of his products to make sure things were up to spec.

One of my engines lags a bit on start up when hot. The timing is locked @ 34 degrees. The starters are stock mercury's. When the engine is cold it turns over fine.( 2 ) 800cca batteries set on ALL for starting
What do you think starter or cable ?? What is the price for the API 1099HD
Thanks

We always load test batteries - you can still have 12.6 or 12.7 volts showing from a volt meter but when you put a load on the battery itself - it can fall on its face. Weak or bad cell(s) or just plain old lived its life out. A fully charged battery is 12.7 v. Over charging them is just as bad as never keeping them fully charged.

MCA / CCA -AMPS is very important especially for cranking over marine engines. For cranking we always use a marine cranking battery with more than the bare min of cranking amps that Merc specs. For computer control engines always a marine cranking battery - non deep cycle ( Merc spec this as well plus they have a min spec on cranking AMPS ) Deep cycle batteries for electronic use ie: stereo, trolling motors and so on.

Weak or loose or dirty or corroded battery connections can labor your electrical components or not even work at all. Anyone of these will cause a lot of resistance. A lot of times its a corrosion issue of some sort even the starter with a slight form corrosion internally and or its connections.

Also cable size matters as well especially on long runs. The longer the run the thinker grade cable is needed. Not to go into details about it as you could always google that info.

I would test your battery first and look for bad grounds especially back motor side and all of your positive connections even at the starter end. Also look for corrosion on or on the connections of the starter. Starters do wear out over time and if they get wet internally they are short lived in a marine app.

API Starter retails for $138. # 10099DR nylon gears and of course they charge shipping even to me. Price of 1099HD is $178 steel gears. Without shipping costs. I could work with you a bit on this.

Very detailed reply.. I am using Interstate cranking batteries.800-1000 cca. They are 2 years old. The boat is stored inside 40 degrees. I will check the battery load with my tester and clean the terminals. Nylon ? Steel Gears??

Thanks

lets just say you might have a hydrolock problem - reverted water back into the cyc(s) or dump too much fuel down the intake or have a locked up the gimbal bearing and try to start your motor. An internal nylon gears inside the starter can break apart so now the starter is junk where as the steel gears inside of the starter could break the bolts off the starter because something has to give and those bolts are way up in the block, guess what, the motor has to come out to retrieve those broken starter bolts.

I have seen a steel gear starter on a 4 banger that had a locked up gimbal bearing as the owner cranked the motor over, it broke the block area completely off where the starter mounts to. He needed a new block after that one and no more steel gear starters for him.

Anyways a steel gear starter will last longer in most cases than a nylon but a nylon could save something else if a problem is taking place. Sometimes these nylon gear starters do not last that long and sometimes they last a very long time, its a matter of choice. Look at how long yours lasted so far. I am 99 % sure they are steel gear starters. Also they are more expensive to buy than nylon gear starters. That's the jist of it. Hope this helps.

My starter has been in there for a very long time and i'm pretty sure it has steel gears. I'll stick with that. Its not going to be fun changing this starter. Its the port side engine. The starter is in between both engines.
Check this out http://www.partsnetworkco.com/API-Ma.../dp/B000C2040W
or this more realistic http://www.go2marine.com/product/927...power-12v.html

but putting in the mini is a hell of alot easier on the arms.btw,,I like the first one in your link.