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need help with code 42 on V6
some how got stuck trying to figure out what is wrong with the thing. boat is a 1997, engine is a 262 bravo V6 serial number OK022619, if someone can run it and tell me what year it is would be great. owner thinks the engine has been changed. engine will not run much over 2000 rpm and with my codemate it shows code 42 ESC ground. owner has been throwing parts at it and his buddy has been playing with it so no telling what has been changed. anyone familiar with this and have any ideas on where to start? I do my best to not work on the electronic motors as there are too many to keep up with for what I do but I told him I would see what can be done.
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Your engine is border line MEFI 2 or 3. Really as far as the code 42 goes it does not matter because that code 42 is the same MEFI 1 thru MEFI 3.
Code 42 is IC or Bypass circuit. IC = Ignition Control, it can be grounded and or the bypass is ground or an open short. More info to hopefully help. At a certain rpm level around 300 rpms and circuit 424 tan/ black wire the voltage applied, circuit 423 white wire should not be grounded in the ignition module. if circuit 424 tan/ black wire is either grounded or open shorted, the ignition module will not switch to the ignition control mode. If that is the case circuit 423 voltage will be to low in which sets the fault code 42. The other side of the coin here is, if circuit 423 white wire stays ground in which again should not after about 300 rpms but if stays grounded the ignition control module will switch to ignition control mode but since the line is grounded, there will not be an ignition control signal at all causing fault code 42 to be set as well. Hope all of this makes sense. |
Forgot what you posted ESC is = electronic shift control - can you tell me where did you get that was code 42 ?
Also forgot. from Ignition control module - circuit (D) 423 white wire connection MEFI 2 is J2-23 and for MEFI 3 is J1-10 From the ignition control module - circuit (B) 424 tan / black wire connection MEFI 2 is J2-24 and for MEFI 3 is J1-24 next you could also have a bad ignition control module but I would check what I post first and make sure you do not have shorts / bad grounds / other circuits grounded / from IC module to ECM and the connections inbetween. |
sorry it was a late night. should have been EST electronic spark timing. at least thats what they call it. can you run the number to see what year this motor is? this is an old DNR boat that has had people swapping things and what not so this at least gives me a place to start. when I can I will see if there is a number on the ecm to try and figure out what I have.
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also forgot to mention, when I plug in the the code reader (rinda codemate 94008) and put it into service mode to read the codes the IAC starts running. sounds like it is constantly trying to open or close. only does it when in service mode and I have never had that happen before.
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Mefi 1 & 2 ECM look the same - Mefi 3 & 4 ECM look the same but look totally different than MEFI 1 & 2. MEFI 1 thru 3 are no longer available. Anyways you could try to pull up pics of what they look like off of google hopefully. I take it you work on boats and I would borrow or buy the new Techmate Pro from Diacom to help with diagnostic trouble shooting. You will want to look at IAC counts to help figure out if the IAC is normal or bad, plus look into history for fault codes. The winky blinky is useless for trouble shooting especially if you are trying to make money & save time working on boats. . It really does neither.
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The engine serial # you posted should be MEFI 3 and you should have the Gen II cool fuel system set up. It should not be the VST fuel set up. All gen II and Gen III cool fuel systems are mounted on the bottom side of the engine. FYI to help whomever to determine the differences..
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it is a cool fuel setup. I do work on boats but not full time. restore cars as a day job but did own a boat shop in the past but nearly all I worked on was supercat, supervee and open class and now 99% of what I work on are all carb motors other than routine maint. never felt the need for the scan tool as then everyone would be calling me wanting something done. this one is a friend of a friend so I am just trying to help them out.
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OK I see and I thought you did this for a living only basis because your name has marine in it. I am guessing here did you have anything to do with rigging or something with Adrenaline Powerboats out of GA. plus I remember a few posts up here you working on boats and I think your dad had something to do with Chris Craft. in Sarasota. I have a really good memory.
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yes, yes and yes. pretty good memory. I worked for Fountain building Reggies race boats, at Super Hawaii with Bill Sirois, was crew chief for Alcone Motorsports, built Reliefband, Spirit of Puerto Rico, rigged all the Adrenalines, etc, etc. boats are not new to me but nearly all were race boats or at the time I had scan tools. I was trying to get out of working on boats that do not have my name on the title but they keep sucking me back in. actually grew up south of you a ways outside Austin, my dad was with Glastron and then Hammond boats out there before going to Chris Craft. probably wont be till tomorrow before I can check much else on this as I have to go fix the carb on an old ski boat tonight and with any luck I am putting my old jet boat in the water this weekend and turning off my phone.
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Then I know who you are thru of the same people I know that you know. Your name is Steve S. and you are close to Lake Lanier. You did a very nice job on rigging the few Adrenalines that were made back then. If you need my phone # let me know and hopefully I can still help you out with your problem child boat or you can post your questions up here as well. take care & good talking with you up to this point. John
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Hi there, your engine serial number comes up as an MERCRUISER - (262 TBI H.P. (1997) Serial No: 0K022619 Model No: 4262C14KS Parts Catalog No: 90-834987965 W/PS, SGLPCEX, W/RO, GEN+ BRAVO
Here is the correct parts catalog for this engine model for you, http://www.mercruiserparts.com/selec..._nbr=834987965 If he's been throwing parts at it, did he happen to try a new ignition module, Item # 10, http://www.mercruiserparts.com/Show_...ion+Components Hey BUP, Just curious if you had any thoughts or experience (maybe through some of your "GM" friends) about the quote below of the black vs yellow dot on the ignition control module. I was surprised to read that and don't recall experiencing it myself in the past.;) Thanks!:) SOLUTION FOUND! Short version: Ignition module (read more in the long version) and spark plug wire(s) was caput! Long version: A lot of beer, headache, thousands of dollars on spare parts, lost summer days and a lot of ideas from certified mechanics have led to this day. This morning my father called me and said that my boat now runs approx. 70mph at. 4800rpm again. As I have written in previous post mechanics could not find the fuel problem so they replaced the fuel pump, fuel filter, fuel tank hose, the nonreturn valve was removed and injection cleaner was used. They tried a portable fuel tank as well. No solution found. Second attempt was to replace the distribution cap and spark plugs. No solution found there either. At the third attempt they run a diagnostic without error codes. This was last season. This winter the injectors were pressure tested with good result and the rotor was changed. A couple of weeks ago the boat was in the water again with the same symptoms (read my first post). Now a couple of days ago, with less hair on my head, I went to a local performance store for cars I never visited before to buy new spark plug wires. I explained to the clerk about my problem and he gave me One tip; check the Ignition module! He explained that the ignition module has a round small black label on it that turns yellow if it has™ gone bad. I later checked the ignition module, which is mounted with two screws under the distribution cap and rotor, and found a yellow dot on it (!). I bought a new module and installed it. It ran much better, approx. 4100rpm. I then changed the spark plugs wires too, and it hasn't run better! I'm not sure but perhaps one of the spark plugs wires made the ignition module bad (?!) Anyhow, I hope this tip can help others in the future. Oh! I found out that the clerk who gave me the tip about the ignition module is an 8 times European Pro Stock Champion. Code:
http://forums.iboats.com/forum/engine-repair-and-maintenance/mercruiser-i-o-inboard-engines-outdrives/635236-502-mpi-boat-won’t-run-on-high-rpms-3000-3400-rpm-maximum |
Sorry missed this one after the fact. Mercruiser and Volvo in which uses a GM part that comes from Singapore originally. What I know is that GM has the dot color matched up to a certain coil for different applications. Again its a GM thing. Just the other day was working a Volvo engine and it had a yellow / whitish dot and it was good to go (the EST module). Also had GM stamped on it.
The Sierra modules do not have any dot on them. I will ask this question to the GM engineers when I run into them at IBEX. |
I did get a chance to run thru all the tests that Mercruiser calls for. in the end it says either bad module or bad connection. pulled the cap and the module. it is a cheap chinesium sorensen and the four pin connector is green with corrosion so next step is clean all the connections and swap the module and see what happens.
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that should do the trick as all MPI / EFI computer controlled engines need to have steady voltage at the proper level l whether its a 5 volt reference signal or a full 12 volts plus steady with no spikes. When you add resistance (corrosion, shorts, bad or loose or broken connections) the engine will not perform correctly and most likely set a fault code. let us know and thanks for the update.
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ok so I had some time to mess with this thing. started it with the old module and checked timing. showed 5 degrees at idle and 21 at 3000. set it to service mode and it died. figured what the heck and changed module to a used GM one I had laying around. got it to run and set it to service mode and had to move the timing up to get it to run. set it to 8 degrees at an idle and pulled it out of service mode and timing jumped to around 15. raised rpm and it went to 36 but came down to 8 at idle. stays that way now whether in service or run mode. gave up for the moment at the sea pump locks up every time you shut it off and I have to take a pipe wrench and get it turning before I can start it again, the port riser is cold and the stbd is hot enough that you dont want to keep your hand on it. also this is the noisiest thing ever. not sure if it is u-joints, the sea pump or a loose rod bouncing around in it. I think by the time it has a new sea pump and exhaust that works he will be over the value of this thing.
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Originally Posted by compedgemarine
(Post 4173887)
set it to service mode and it died. got it to run and set it to service mode and had to move the timing up to get it to run. set it to 8 degrees at an idle and pulled it out of service mode and timing jumped to around 15. raised rpm and it went to 36 but came down to 8 at idle. stays that way now whether in service or run mode.
Here's an example for you if interested, http://www.boatfix.com/merc/bullet/97/97_15.PDF Hope this helps, good luck.:) PS, Thanks BUP, looking forward to see if they know anything about the colored dots on the modules.;):) |
it is a mefi 2 so that may be part of the problem as I did not raise it to 1800, it was hard enough getting it to start with the sea pump turning. they did mess with the timing before I got it so if the weather clears I will run it thru that procedure if it pump water.
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also motor needs to be at the correct operating temp before setting the timing and you will need to advance throttle to 1800 rpms before setting the timing. Also Mercruiser service manual # 18 under the fuel section # 5 will have all info for testing the module (IC) and setting the timing for the EST app. .
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