Thunderbolt Distributor Rotor - Stuck!
 

I was changing the plugs, wires, rotor and cap yesterday. Just some overdue maintenance. All was going well until I got to the rotor! The thing was stuck on there and would not budge. I pulled with my fingers and pliers. I pried with assorted tools not designed for the task.

A friend finally helped me out by having a dremil tool handy. It still took a great deal of prying / pulling. The rotor appeared slightly rusted / glued in place!

First -
Is there any easy way to pull these off? Has anyone developed a puller? Should I just plan on cutting them all off?

Second -
Why was it glued? Should I glue the replacement? What should I use? It seems like it is on there pretty good without any adhesive. (maybe I should have greased it?)

All input is appreciated. I have two more of these to do.

Thanks!

Steve

I think that it's standard procedure to use locktite when those are installed. You can break the bond with heat.

Cold chisel and a hammer works wonders. Turned out that mine was rusted. After some emery cloth the new one slid right on.

Shop manual calls for heat, 2 screwdrivers on opposite sides will do wonders, Loctite on the new one as this is what controls your timing. Any movement is BAD!

So are you guys saying I should use loc-tite to put my rotor on....And the manual states this.... Ive never heard of such a thing. Are the rotors made with that much clearance??

"Bad-Habit"

Yep, as crazy as it sounds. Don't think it is a loose clearance issue, as a keep it "good-n-tight" thing

You don't say.....Well you learn something everyday....Thanks:p

"Bad-Habit"

man o man i gota give out all my tricks....chanel locks....just twist it right off up and around in one motion....it breaks the tab clean off in the shaft....if it's worth changing then it goes in the trash....i don't use old stuff for back ups. i buy new for that.

I twisted pretty hard but I was afraid of damaging the distributor gear or shearing the little pin / screw that holds the gear on.

Thanks for the good tip!


Mark - Thanks for your advice. I pried all day with screwdrivers and that thing was not budging. ( I did not used heat) I purchased the parts from you. Great Website!.

Steve

the plastic will give way prior to the pin...i never said it was easy...that's way i said chanel locks:D ....i've done a TON of 500 hp's this way...may take some smashing prior to twisting..good luck.

"some take some smashing prior to twisting"

:D :D :D

there my dumb ass corrected it...u happy now:D

I didn't notice the grammer! I was laughing at the word smashing!
Pictured myself sitting in the bilge with a big hammer:eek: :cool:

smashing as in grip the chanel locks more:D ....come on i only use a hammer on trailers!!!

Rotor Removal
 

Stevel

An easy way to remove the rotor is to cut throught the top of it with a hacksaw, put a screwdriver in the slot give it a twist and the rotor will break in half easily. This allows removal without smaking the hell our to the distributor and everything in it. If you hit the rotor to hard you can bend the distributor snap ring and or bend the shaft.
Good luck

I had to remove the distributor and dissasemble. There are two screws underneath holding it down. We pulled and pried with no luck, then found the screws.

A minor point on rotor replacement that is in Merc Service Bulletin 83-24

In the step before using Loctite is says:

"Place a small amount of lubricant around the distributor shaft where it enters the busing. This will prevent any of the Loctite from getting into the bronze bushing."