I purchased the boat from a reputable Checkmate Dealer that did the install. I have learned alot about Procharging since then. I definitely want to do a full rebuild while the motor is out of the boat. I have talked to a couple of builders. Just not sure if it is in the budget for me this year.

I would contact Ron at Dynamic Speed and Marine in Harrison Twp. 586-949-5990, he did all the work on my motor. He is very meticulous and has built some very serious motors. I have sent a lot of people to him and everyone has said he is very reasonable. If you need a set of rods, I have a set of GMPP rods with ARP fasteners that have about 80 hours on them I'll sell cheap.

You might want to think about aluminum heads

Thanks, I will give him a call. I haven't pulled the pan yet to see what the lower end looks like.

I'm betting the bottom end not going to look bad....

I am still torn on what to do. Money is tight as i am saving for my sons College. Anyone have an idea what a rebuild would cost, i have recieved a few estimates and have entertained the idea of rebuiding it myself.

Can anyone give me advice on doing the rebuild myself? Not how to do it but is it a bad idea?

You should still call Ron he will work with you. Let him do what you can't and you do the rest.

Called this morning. He will be in around 1:00 pm

Just briefly, looked at the pictures. Being you had some tuning issues with the mefi, looks like the area between the cylinders started to get hot. You can see the darkened areas and the fire ring is distorted. It also looks like the area up around the large water port gave out in the intake valve area, which is where you will see detonation start to lift the ring lang and valve pocket area, that is most likely; where the H2O entered. Those are the same gaskets used on the 575SCI, they have a problem giving out over time. If they didn't give out from detonation or heat, the water came from the series of cylinders blowing between cylinders ; causing reversion.
As Alex, stated; that O2 getting wet, will show lean and it will dump fuel so fast, your head will spin. The Holley corrects for A/F ratio at a very fast rate, we have played with adding fuel and removing fuel on the dyno, which is going to accelerate at a faster rate then you will ever see in your boat.

Thanks for the insight. Still doing some research here on my next move.

Pulled the pan yesterday. Visually everything looks good but I am no expert. Also wanted to show off my new engine stand. Old one is on craigslist $45

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I would be pulling the pistons, being this is the stock engine. Take it down completely, inspect all the ring lands and rod bearings, look at the upper bearing for any wiping of the bearing, detonation and hydraulicing of the cylinder will show up here also. This is something you need to do regardless, water/alum/iron do not mix well, stuck rings, corrosion marks or pitting occur.

I like your garage floor. Is that textured concrete, with a stamping?

Actually it is 2'x2' Rubber tiles. Industrial Grade. We have driven 6000 lb.Forklifts on it and doesn't hurt it one bit.

Get those pistons out and inspect them.

Tiles, glued down?

The tiles are actually 1" thick. Each tile weighs about 8 lbs. It took 2 trips in my 3/4 pick up to bring home 1200 sq. feet of tile. Enough to do my barn. The tiles do not glue down but you can pin them together with plastic barbed dowel pins. I do have more if anyone is interested.

I'm getting ready to spend $1800 on an epoxy job for my garage and it's only 580 sq.ft. How much are they and what colors can I get them in?

I have some tan and some grey left. The tan is a little nicer. $1.00 a square foot.