Engine Pre lube systems
 

How many guys out there are using engine pre lube systems on their expensive engines? Is it worth the expense and if you had them laying in your shop, would you bother to install them? I have 2 like new systems sitting here from Master Lube and can't decide whether or not to put them on. Advantages or disadvantages, comments or questions, I don't hear much on the subject so I figure I would toss it out there.

i personally dont see much need for them.i have a 99 tahoe with 191 thousand on it and it can get pretty cold here in chicagoland.if it does not need a preluber neither do my 1200 hp boat engines!

close to a million miles on my semi tractor. has like 34,000 hours on the engine. Has been started with 15w40 oil for the past 16 chicago winters. Oil pressure still in spec and hasnt had the valve cover off.

I'd rather invest in spring oilers or piston oilers before investing in a preluber. Thats just my opinion though. I'm just a truck driver/wanna be mechanic

yschmidt has them on his big cube motors on his Cigaratte bullet and he claims they are one of the best investments he ever made in the boat.

I would like to get 1/100th of that many hours on my boat motor

I have run an accusump for the past ten years, allows me to run less oil in the sump and reduce windage. Also prelubes engine at startup. simple and effective.

http://www.accusump.com/

I am in favor of them especially for marine apps that sit for 6 months to whenever around here with the darn drought. Depending on what motor oil is used as I summarize / spring commission a lot of boats - IMO the dry start ups can cause a lot wear plus the lifter bleed down that took plus over lay up time and so on. Like I said depending on motor oil, some of these marine engines at first start up will have a lot of valve train noise until that motor oil builds enough pressure / flows thru the engine. I have notice this especially with the 496 customers using Amsoil 15-40 diesel / marine oil. I also have notice customers using VR1 Valvoline straight 40 w do not have this problem with valve train / dry start up noise after long term layup. FWIW

I've wondered in the past if you were to pull the coil wire and crank it over for a few seconds to move some oil back up, is that a good thing or a waste of time?
After a lengthy layup is what I'm referring to.
Thanks ken

Most of your engine wear is at start up. The synthetics leave more of a microscopic film which reduces this.

Not trying to start anything, just telling you what the automotive co have found.

Wannabe

Ken actually Mercruiser recommends to do this as for a pre luber after long term storage. They want you to pull all the spark plugs out dismantle the fuel supply / (fuse or connection) dismantle spark as well and crank motor over X amount times for no more than 10 seconds max at one time. The other way Mercruiser lists is thru the distributor hole and drill combo. They even list this procedure for their reman engine replacement before any start up. They do not list how to pre lube any of their distributorless engines for manually doing it but still list pulling the spark plugs out and cranking over the engine like I said.

I do not like cranking the engine over to pre lube for a new or reman engine replacement. I would hate to nick a bearing or score a bearing from the rotating assemblies.

On distributorless engines you can pre lube thru the oil sender with a manual oil pump device / pump or use a pressurized remote oil tank like what Melling sells or Motive Products. Use can even use the same set up that you have for filling your outdrive just do not use gear lube. There is a few other ways to pre lube an engine as well.